Overhead TV ignition lockout

[96 Wideglide]

Hey guy's!

Recently lost my front tv, so pulled it out of the box, and waiting for it's replacement to be delivered.
Wife was doing some cleaning, and tells me she twice heard a clicking sound coming from the empty TV cabinet. Well, there's nothing plugged in, in there so I was stumped. Searching around in there, the outlet for the TV, is a special one with the usual romex feed, then a couple of 12v wires, which I assume must feed a relay inside the outlet, for the ignition shut off.
Grabbed the keys, and turned ignition on/ off a couple of times to confirm this was the clicking she was hearing (she thinks so ). It's quite loud when there's no TV blocking it!
There were no keys in the ignition when she first heard the clicking!

Anyone seen one of these outlets go bad? If I unplug the 12v ignition wires, will I have 120v at the outlet, or would that shut the outlet down?

I'm thinking now, this quick power on/ off may have toasted my TV !!

Cheers.... Ben.

[windsorbill]

hey ben,

I bi-passed that relay years ago. When we first had the coach, the kids were young and would watch cartoons while I was driving. Even if I wanted to watch the TV while driving, I'd get a stiff neck doing it, so wasn't even tempted.

[96 Wideglide]

Did you just disconnect the 12v feed, Bill?

[Biljol]

Yes just remove the wire. I did the same because we moved the tv and I wanted the pull for other equipment. With the tv behind me and on a power riser very hard to watch. [emoji12]

[windsorbill]

Originally Posted by 96 Wideglide

Did you just disconnect the 12v feed, Bill?

Yes, I believe so. But I had a second plug up in the cabinet that was always hot for the stereo. It had an extra outlet, so I took advantage of that.

[JJTL]

Is it a LOK-OUT device?



We recently upgraded our TVs and found one of these in the front TV cabinet that the TV was plugged into. It appears a previous owner had actually put a toggle switch connected to the 12V relay to bypass it. Since we have other outlets in the area that are always live, we just used those for the new TV instead.

I'm going to guess that when the relay sees 12V power, it cuts the power to the 120V plug. The 12V power is seen either when the ignition is on, parking brake removed, or transmission put in gear (I don't recall which it is).

I believe I have a manual for it, if that is any help.

[Alpine36]

Yeah, bypass it for sure. Or better yet plug the tv, DVD, sound bar etc into an inverter fed outlet.

[96 Wideglide]

They are all inverter fed.

Yeah, I have the option of running the power cord from the new set to an outlet in either drivers, or passenger side audio / video cabinets, but not sure I like the idea of leaving a 12v relay back there, randomly turning itself on/ off.

[windsorbill]

Originally Posted by 96 Wideglide

They are all inverter fed.

Yeah, I have the option of running the power cord from the new set to an outlet in either drivers, or passenger side audio / video cabinets, but not sure I like the idea of leaving a 12v relay back there, randomly turning itself on/ off.

I took the relay out and labeled the 12 volt line for future use.

[geordi]

Probably the first thing I disabled in the coach my family bought new - b/c it was going to be used to transport a group of girl scouts to a tour of Colonial Williamsburg and then Savannah Georgia. They wanted to watch movies on the way - and certainly I had NO interest at all in whatever they were watching!

Same setup in my coach, although that lockout device also had a separate 12V feed b/c it was also a 200 watt inverter at the same time. So removing that one was a little trickier if I had wanted to keep the inverter (I didn't) but labeled the wires anyway for future. Never used them again. Disabling the relay was simple though - just clip the wire.

[96 Wideglide]

Thanks guy's!

So, the consensus is if I cut the +12v power wire, the relay has no power, and I still have a 120v outlet.

I'm still curious what is triggering that relay, when the key isn't even in the ignition. I have a trouble light plugged into the outlet now, turned on, but the chances of being in the coach and see'ing it flash, is unlikely!

[windsorbill]

Originally Posted by 96 Wideglide

Thanks guy's!

So, the consensus is if I cut the +12v power wire, the relay has no power, and I still have a 120v outlet.

I'm still curious what is triggering that relay, when the key isn't even in the ignition. I have a trouble light plugged into the outlet now, turned on, but the chances of being in the coach and see'ing it flash, is unlikely!

Ben

My bet is yes, you should have 120 volts without 12 volts connected, BUT......

You should have 120 power going into that box. The relay connects (or disconnects) the "in" power to the plug.


Now depending on the switch you have, will determine if removing the 12 volt power will allow 120 volts to pass through to the outlet portion. Either 'normally open' or 'normally closed' switches were used.


If you removed the whole device and connect the romex to a residential wall outlet (you should install a wall box to put the plug into), you should be good to go.

This is the relay for my water heater the RL1009 is a normally opened relay. I think the 1003 is the normally closed relay and might be the one you have up front (or equiv)

[96 Wideglide]

Yep, it is the RL 1003.

I'll remove the +12v to the relay, if I still have 120v great. If not, I'll just replace the box with a residential.

Your probably right about the mon, wed, fri !

[windsorbill]

Originally Posted by 96 Wideglide

Yep, it is the RL 1003.

I'll remove the +12v to the relay, if I still have 120v great. If not, I'll just replace the box with a residential.

Your probably right about the mon, wed, fri !

If it was clicking before with the key off, I'd be tempted to take it out. Who knows what was going on. It be bad to toast another TV