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Old 08-08-2020, 04:37 AM   #29
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It already been mentioned by me and others about clutch fan some are viscous fluid filled and electric full lock up. I don't know what year and models these are on but there are threads on issues here.
He has a 2005 Cayman and my money is on a standard fan that runs without a clutch. Our 2006 Diplomat has a direct fan and it blows like crazy when the engine is idling.

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Old 08-08-2020, 03:03 PM   #30
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Check your turbocharger boost as well.
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Old 08-08-2020, 03:50 PM   #31
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One more thing to think about..

Your could have a bad water pump. It is possible to have the water pump impeller break off, or slip on, the shaft (internally) then the pulley turns normally (so it looks okay from the outside) but the coolant does not move the engine properly. You can test for this by measuring the coolant pressure.

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Old 08-09-2020, 09:17 PM   #32
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Thanks to all!


The rig does indeed have a direct drive fan with no clutch, and it can't be turned with the engine off so I don't think that's the problem.


CountryB, thanks for the video. It COULD be a bad water pump, but that really sounds unlikely. Does anyone reading this know of anyone who had a failed water pump on any kind of equipment?


Shootist: I'm not sure what you want me to check. I watch the gauge and find it very curious that when downshifting from 5'th to 4'th going up a hill the boost goes UP instead of down. That helps cool things down of course.


All: The check engine light has been on and off the whole trip, and the codes taken before I left indicated a turbo-actuator problem. I took this to mean the vanes were sticking due to carbon buildup and hoped some good hills would help clean it out. That doesn't seem to have happened, assuming the light isn't coming on solely due to the overheating.


My guess now is that it's a combination of internal buildup and possibly external gunk that I couldn't get off when cleaning it. I'm parked in San Diego for a while now, so testing it will be something of a challenge.


Other opinions welcome,


David
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Old 08-12-2020, 12:04 PM   #33
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Shootist: I'm not sure what you want me to check. I watch the gauge and find it very curious that when downshifting from 5'th to 4'th going up a hill the boost goes UP instead of down. That helps cool things down of course.

This is how the turbo works, The more exhaust flow you put to the impeller, the more boost it will produce. Your RPM went up when you down shifted to fourth hence more exhaust flow.

Your direct drive fan is turning faster with the RPM increase and your water pump is flowing more coolant with the same RPM increase. That's why it helps cool it down.

Tim
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Old 08-12-2020, 01:33 PM   #34
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I have been involved in diesel engine repair for 47 years and have never seen a water pump impeller fall off.

I have seen the bearing fail and the impeller rub the back housing but by then the coolant is pouring out.

I have heard about steel impellers rotting away, but that's from using straight water in the cooling system. Never seen it.

Your boost goes up when you downshift because the RPMs go up and the engine control lets more fuel into the injectors.

Back in the day, when diesels smoked, that was due to more fuel then they could burn at that RPM ( Called lugging ). That's not allowed anymore.
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Old 08-12-2020, 03:48 PM   #35
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If were guessing?

" I'll take the radiators that are partially plugged internally for $100.00 Alex."

Flushing plugged radiators that are causing heating issues from an external source such as a coolant flush machine and the likes of almost never remedy heat transfer issues that are caused from inside the radiator and in most cases it will most likely have to be re-cored or replaced.


It may be very pricey to replace the re-core radiator and a leap of faith to make that jump to a new radiator but pale in comparison to the cost of another engine lost due to overheating.

I dont speak compression ignition fluently but what I will say if the vehicle in question was a spark ignition the symptoms you describe I have chased hundreds of times and it always ended up being internal contamination issue within the radiator and to be redundant I have never seen flushing cure one and have used many pricey flushing machines trying to do so along with chemicals.

IMO someone needs to get a dual channel muli-meter or the likes with surface temp probes and compare the inlet and outlet temps of the radiator while the coach is under load and this overheat situation rears its ugly head.

If the cooling fan is working properly and also the radiator I would like to see 10-15 degrees difference inlet to outlet to know the radiator was capable of doing it’s job and I would also like to see a low pressure gage hooked up in the cooling system and see a pressure increase when the engine rpm is increase to verify the water pump is working properly.

The key here is finding a quality service facility and a qualified tech to diagnose the problem and in the world of HD vehicles don’t underestimate a mobile tech.

I would be hitting the local HD vehicle parts outlets and the likes of and find out who is tooled and qualified to diagnose the issue…and that may prove difficult and it wont be cheap.

That's my $.02 and probably worth less

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Old 08-13-2020, 05:50 AM   #36
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If were guessing?

" I'll take the radiators that are partially plugged internally for $100.00 Alex."

Flushing plugged radiators that are causing heating issues from an external source such as a coolant flush machine and the likes of almost never remedy heat transfer issues that are caused from inside the radiator and in most cases it will most likely have to be re-cored or replaced.


It may be very pricey to replace the re-core radiator and a leap of faith to make that jump to a new radiator but pale in comparison to the cost of another engine lost due to overheating.

I dont speak compression ignition fluently but what I will say if the vehicle in question was a spark ignition the symptoms you describe I have chased hundreds of times and it always ended up being internal contamination issue within the radiator and to be redundant I have never seen flushing cure one and have used many pricey flushing machines trying to do so along with chemicals.

IMO someone needs to get a dual channel muli-meter or the likes with surface temp probes and compare the inlet and outlet temps of the radiator while the coach is under load and this overheat situation rears its ugly head.

If the cooling fan is working properly and also the radiator I would like to see 10-15 degrees difference inlet to outlet to know the radiator was capable of doing it’s job and I would also like to see a low pressure gage hooked up in the cooling system and see a pressure increase when the engine rpm is increase to verify the water pump is working properly.

The key here is finding a quality service facility and a qualified tech to diagnose the problem and in the world of HD vehicles don’t underestimate a mobile tech.

I would be hitting the local HD vehicle parts outlets and the likes of and find out who is tooled and qualified to diagnose the issue…and that may prove difficult and it wont be cheap.

That's my $.02 and probably worth less

Happy Trails
I give this post an A+

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Old 08-13-2020, 06:35 AM   #37
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Old 08-13-2020, 08:32 AM   #38
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Turbochargers are heat driven, not exhaust air flow. As the turbo can't deliver full boost the extra fuel makes heat instead of power. The radiator has to remove it. A failing turbo will overheat the motor. Just saw one do it two weeks ago in a Cayman 400 isl. Ended with the turbo exhaust housing cracking and warping. Fortunately the thing stopped spinning before lunching the intake side in anyway.
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Old 08-13-2020, 08:31 PM   #39
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I give this post an A+

Bob
Thanks Bob.


Hard to diagnose from back here in the bleachers and just throwing out some ideas that can backed up with some data and not just a SWAG.


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Old 08-14-2020, 12:08 PM   #40
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I have been involved in diesel engine repair for 47 years and have never seen a water pump impeller fall off.

I have seen the bearing fail and the impeller rub the back housing but by then the coolant is pouring out.

I have heard about steel impellers rotting away, but that's from using straight water in the cooling system. Never seen it.

Your boost goes up when you downshift because the RPMs go up and the engine control lets more fuel into the injectors.

Back in the day, when diesels smoked, that was due to more fuel then they could burn at that RPM ( Called lugging ). That's not allowed anymore.



Haven't work on these as long as you but I did have a water pump impeller come loose on its press fit and spin on the shaft. I know because I worked on it beside the I90 in New York State for a whole Sunday. Volvo covered it (brand new 400hp Volvo in 1993) but it sure wasn't a fun Sunday.



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Old 08-14-2020, 02:37 PM   #41
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Turbochargers are heat driven, not exhaust air flow. As the turbo can't deliver full boost the extra fuel makes heat instead of power. The radiator has to remove it. A failing turbo will overheat the motor. Just saw one do it two weeks ago in a Cayman 400 isl. Ended with the turbo exhaust housing cracking and warping. Fortunately the thing stopped spinning before lunching the intake side in anyway.
Meant to say Camelot, my apologies.
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Old 08-15-2020, 11:46 AM   #42
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On July 26th I did ask when the last time the rad was replaced. Just saying.


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