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Old 07-25-2021, 07:59 PM   #29
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Tim, I'm fairly certain it is plugged into the correct plug for the inverter. Checked and there is only one plug behind the fridge. Checked the plug, all the fuses and breakers associated with the inverter that I could find. The plug is dead when the shore power or generator aren't running. Doesn't seem right that the inverter is running, but no power to the pug. There may be something amiss that I'm not aware of. I'm clueless when it comes to inverters, converters and etc. Guess it's time to learn.
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Old 07-25-2021, 09:29 PM   #30
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Next would be to see if you have power at any of your outlets with just the inverter...shore power shut off. Make sure your inverter is turned on. Check the indicator light on the side of the inverter for color and how fast it's flashing. Codes are written on the inverter next to light.

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Old 07-26-2021, 12:00 PM   #31
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Very relieved to read that you are ok. God is good.

I believe the coaches that have only one receptacle back there will not have inverter power. The reasoning is the propane fridges when on elect
draw too much current for too long. The inverter plug is for the ice maker.
You will need to run an extension cord or rewire the receptacle.
Most people can run a heavy-duty extension cord out of sight and leave it
that way.

Ray 03 Windsor
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Old 07-27-2021, 08:37 AM   #32
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Not sure if you solved this or not, but its your foot switch. 99.9% of them fail. My 98 windsor failed, my 2003 Dynasty failed. They will even show voltage from one side and out the other but not enough to active the brake.

My pacbrake you could test by having the coach with the key in the ACC mode (turned to the left). Just make sure you're aired up all the way so you have air in the tanks. You can hear and see it activate in the back if you have a good connection. Otherwise you have to road test it. It needs to be in 3-5 gear range when you activate it and foot off the accelerator with speed above 15MPH.

I removed the foot pedals and put a switch in the drivers side console. Much more enjoyable experience then having to hold the foot switch for 10-20 mins at a time coming down a long grade.
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Old 07-27-2021, 02:21 PM   #33
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All good ideas for your problem. The shift indicator will change if the programming has not been changed. I had my mh3000 reprogrammed so that I have to manually shift the trans down to keep r.p.m. up for the pacbrake. If that has been done you will NOT see a gear change on the indicator. Also, I ordered regular pac lube from pacbrake to use on mine. Use on all points of movement and remove the airline and squirt lube into the hole. Mine didn't work either until I lubed it and moved the shutter by using a pair of pliers to work it. Now you can hear and feel the pacbrake when you slow down. Hope it helps, good luck.
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Old 07-27-2021, 03:49 PM   #34
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Pacbrake ripoff

I went to a "reputable" Diesel shop in Hendersonville Tn as my Pacbrake was not working. I found out they had no clue, even if they do govt trucks etc.
Left it overnight..a big hassle...and they said they had to "research" it for 6 shop hours of time...
Charged me $900 when we went to pick it up...We choked....turns out...just the footswitch...and they jury rigged a $2 autozone toggle switch screwed under the dash,,,which was almost impossible to flip on an off as needed. Suggesting you check the footswitch before proceeding. 2 cents
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Old 07-27-2021, 03:53 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gonecampin1 View Post
The shift indicator will change if the programming has not been changed.

Correct.


Have never heard of a motorhome that had "6th" as the pre-select for exhaust brake application from the factory.


2nd and 4th are popular options.


Yes, any Allison dealer can reprogram the Allison ECU to any pre-select gear. I had mine reprogrammed to 5th. Great for control in mountain driving. Requires down arrow for lower speed.
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Old 07-27-2021, 06:27 PM   #36
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"Fortunately we haven't been in a situation where the pacbrake has been needed."

Actually, about any time you apply the foot brake, you should apply the exhaust brake first, except at school zone speeds. And some controllers do not downshift for you, I prefer to downshift manually and programmed mine to allow it. You cannot overuse the exhaust brake, you can easily overuse the service brake, with disasterous results.
And lube that thang! Lube is good...

...and God is Great!! Glad to hear your heart is good. Prayers are a powerful thing.
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Old 07-27-2021, 08:33 PM   #37
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Our country coach had the stick issue I pulled it all apart then I called pac brake and they had a fix if I remember it made the cylinder double acting never another issue so try them unless itís Cummins good luck
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Old 07-28-2021, 04:02 PM   #38
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First of all, praying that God will watch over you for good health.
I have a 2001 Monaco Dynasty with ISC 350 hp cummins and have been battling the intermittent performance of the Pac brake. In my case I've tested the foot switch and know it work because the Allison down shifts as it should when I'm above 15 mph and 0 throttle position. Unfortunately the Pac brake solenoid will not consistently energize and I have tried to trace wire numbers from the Monaco electric schematics with no success. I even ran a separate wire from the solenoid in the engine compartment to the dash and installed a LED indicator lamp so I could see precisely when there was a 12 v signal going to the solenoid. I have tested the functionality of the solenoid and air cylinder operation by running a 12 v test lead to the solenoid and it function great whenever I provide power to the solenoid.
Over come by frustration, and due to trying to minimize the build up of heat in the turbocharger due to the length of time the engine brake is activated during the transmission down shifting sequences, I did a minor wiring change. I disconnected the existing wire that was originally powering the PacBrake solenoid, and then ran a separate wire from the foot switch to a momentary toggle switch on the left console and then routed it directly to the PacBrake solenoid. Now, whenever I activate the foot switch, the transmission downshifting sequence takes place as it normally did, but now I have complete control as to when and how long I desire to have the PacBrake energized. When slowing down I generally desire to keep the downshifting sequence on as long as necessary, and now I don't have to worry about additional heat build up in the exhaust system because of being able to control the time or duration that I have the exhaust brake energized.
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Old 07-28-2021, 05:49 PM   #39
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Yukon Jack, I may try wiring as you did. Thank you for the prayers. Those are always accepted and appreciated. Harry, I did what you suggested. When the engine is running, the white wire to the foot switch reads 14 volts. When off, it reads continuity to ground. The switch operates correctly and reads 14 volts at the black wire when the switch is activated and engine running. When off it reads 0. The black wire does not read continuity to ground. Checked the leads on the air solenoid at the pacbrake. One wire reads 0 the other reads .5 volts. Hooked a battery to the air solenoid and the piston closed the butterfly. However when deactivated, the piston did not release. It took about five minutes for the butterfly to completely open. Don't know why the piston is not releasing air. Any and all ideas are considered and valued. 1st pic is butterfly open and piston retracted. 2nd pic is butterfly closed and piston extended. 3rd pic is piston slowly retracting and 4th pic is foot switch test.
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Old 07-29-2021, 05:33 AM   #40
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PacBrake Trouble Shoot Procedure enclosed.
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File Type: pdf PACBRAKE Trouble Shooting.pdf (43.2 KB, 12 views)
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Old 07-29-2021, 09:17 AM   #41
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There is a relay in the compartment on the drivers side of the MH. It has a relay labeled Engine Retarder. Is this the relay for the pacbrake?
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Old 07-29-2021, 10:29 AM   #42
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The solenoid in the back that operates the PacBrake is a three way solenoid. When powered, like you did, it engages the PacBrake. When power is removed, the valve closes and letís the pressure, that was going to the PacBrake, escape through the hollow stem. The stem is the part that has nut holding on solenoid coil.
It could be that mud daubers have restricted the air from escaping when you release the 12v.

The next issue could be the spring loaded actuator piston is gummed up.

I also see what looks like a filter on the inlet to the PacBrake. Not sure. If it is a filter and plugged, it could cause slow escape of pressure when 12v removed. On all the PacBrakes Iíve worked on, none had that can. Maybe someone else can chime in here.

Another step you could take is to could soak the non working swivel in Kroil or PB Blaster overnight and see if you can remove the air line to the PacBrake.Then using shop air, with a rubber tipped nozzle if you have one, to apply air to piston through that can like filter. If still slow to return, take off the filter and use the air to the cylinder directly. See what happens at each stage to find the slow retraction of the cylinder.

One other thing you could try first, would be to remove the C clip at end of actuator and make sure you can move the butterfly arm back and forth freely. If hanging up, you might have to remove the PacBrake, as others have, to free it up. I would think that the arm will move freely, from what you are saying.

Through a process of elimination you will figure this out. You are getting closer with the steps you have already take.
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