Community Forums

kenwyatt · 10-01-2020, 04:44 PM

I will post pictures but I have a couple of spots on the slide flange that is bubbling and failing. It’s best described as a white power corrosion. The flange appears to be aluminum. Any ideals on how to fix this before priming and painting so it doesn’t come back. There is the one big one and a couple of smaller ones where it hasn’t broken thru the paint. Sorry the pictures are upside down. Top of picture is the bottom of the flange.

pduggs · 10-01-2020, 05:05 PM

Ouch! Can’t say I’ve ever seen that before.

kenwyatt · 10-01-2020, 05:14 PM

Me neather. Have a fair about of painting to do on some fiberglass repairs and that’s not a problem just don’t want this to pop back out right away

arcaguy · 10-01-2020, 05:24 PM

I would talk to someone that is familiar with painting airplanes like aircraftspruce.com. I'm thinking you need to get some kind of corrosion inhibitor and likely some zinc chromate primer if you can still buy it. It just came to me that there are body shops out there certified to fix Ford aluminum bodies, you might talk to them also. Good luck.

kenwyatt · 10-01-2020, 05:27 PM

Thanks, good suggestions

8.3Oilbuner · 10-01-2020, 07:39 PM

Hi Kenwyatt; Sorry you are experiencing this problem, but, I was looking at an 05 Monaco Windsor and it had that same problem. It was extensive enough that I would not consider the coach for purchase. Have seen this problem on the 05 and some 06 Monaco products and Monaco was building the Beaver in these years. Not sure how many are out there with this problem but I would follow Arcaguy's advice.

sibe · 10-01-2020, 08:10 PM

Good luck stopping it. Sorry . I have been in autopaint for my entire life,, I am going to ne 60 in a few months and painted my first car when i was 14..

The issue is the seam. the corrosion has started in the seam and spread thru the metal and under the coating..
Taking that seam apart is not possible or lets say practical.. I have done some boats and some rovers etc .. media blasting is the best way and followed by a chemical conversion or proper primer..

I will bet my favorite spray gun that the corrosion has microscopically penetrated clear to the other side..

The hard part is going to find a shop that will take the proper time to aleast clean that all up, then use a 2 part seamsealer to help seal.. then fill the craters with a alum or polymer filler.. prime and then try to match up the paint...

GM and Ford has been playing with Alum, hoods and deck lids for many YEARS..15+.. many many get that creping corrosion from the hem seams on hod edges,, tail gate edges.. I have tried everything, I can slow it BUT never stopped it.. many customers got panels replaced by dealers.. when only 1-3 years old......

point is, tough job..

If you can find a shop that knows the ways of working Alum,, go for it..

IF they do not have a separate area for Alum only repairs with separate tools for alum repair or atleast explain why they must isolate the repairs, WALK AWAY fast....

Cross contamination from sanding steel / repairs in same room or same tools will cross contaminate the alum... Iron dust on alum is a disaster..

Alum also must be re sanded or abraided with in minutes prior to sealing.priming, it oxides in the air within minutes..

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

sorry to be long,, but I have been , there, done that.. avoided it.... etc...

kenwyatt · 10-01-2020, 08:53 PM

Luckily the damaged area is small and basically what is pictured. The repairs will be done buy myself and my Brother-In-Law. He is really good on fiberglass and painting but had never seen anything on aluminum doing this.

kenwyatt · 10-01-2020, 08:58 PM

When you say the seam you are talking about the edge of the flange that’s covered by the silicone sealent that I have been checking and touching up if it looks like I need to correct

pduggs · 10-02-2020, 05:31 AM

We all know the importance of keeping the belt line properly caulked and sealed, to prevent water intrusion. Is the damage caused by water intrusion corroding the metal strip beneath the belt line molding? Is that strip of metal made of aluminum or steel?

TRH299 · 10-02-2020, 07:16 AM

When painting aluminum aircraft parts, I have used an acid etch solution scrubbing with a scotchbrite pad then once rinsed and dry, I apply alodine solution with a sponge to keep wet for a couple minutes then rinse. Next I apply an epoxy two part primer, then top coat with two part urethane type paint.

A long time ago zinc chromate was used as a primer but not anymore under modern urethane paints.

With all that said, it has been several years since I painted an airplane and I am pretty sure there are some new "etching primers" that may work well too on aluminum. One can search their favorite paint brand websites (like Dupont or PPG) for paint system "data" sheets and they will typically detail what primers and surface prep they recommend for their latest products when applying over various substrates.

kenwyatt · 10-02-2020, 07:57 AM

It’s not the belt line. It is the large aluminum flange that goes all the way around the slide. Do not believe there is anything going on under the flange but believe it is a surface problem.

pduggs · 10-02-2020, 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenwyatt

It’s not the belt line. It is the large aluminum flange that goes all the way around the slide. Do not believe there is anything going on under the flange but believe it is a surface problem.

Okay. Have you noticed if the paint in the crevice where the flange meets to the slide wall has flacked off? Mine has done this in a few spots. Bare metal was exposed. I just recently repainted those areas.

kenwyatt · 10-02-2020, 10:07 AM

Don’t believe it has, I keep a good eye on all the seams. I have had it in my care sense 2017 and my BIL bought it new. Been under cover most of its life and I think that helps a Lot.