Community Forums

deSanford · 11-25-2011, 10:02 PM

The "latter" costs twice as much as the one on sale, and both do the same job. The hard wired one has a little unit so you can monitor the connection I believe. I purchased the "lock" box for about $21.00 today on sale from Camping World.

nodine · 11-26-2011, 04:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Geaux Saints

Is the "plug in type" equal to the "hard wired" in performance? We were thinking of getting the latter.

You need more than surge protection. What ever you buy make sure it does voltage and ground checks also. If you loose the ground on a 50 amp pedestal then some devices in your coach can be exposed to 220 VAC. Not a good thing.

This is the portable version of the one I linked to above:
EMS-PT50C

Bob

codgerbill · 11-26-2011, 05:30 AM

I have the TRC portable Surge Guard. The one I have now is a replacement for the original one I purchased. The original one I purchased failed in service. My DW noticed the AC was not on in the coach and I checked the power pedistal we were on with a digital VOM. The pedistal voltage was ok. I also took the surge protector to other pedistals and tried it. With this particular brand of surge protector you have to wait almost 2 1/2 minutes after you plug it in before it will power up your coach. There is a time delay lite that blinks and when it stops thats when it will close a relay that allows power to the coach. On my original unit the time delay lite never stopped blinking.
The unit was only 5 months old (1 year warrenty from TRS)and I had purchased it from camping world. I called TRS and they said to send it back and they would replace it at no charge. I took it back to Camping World and was informed that thier warrenty was for 30 days. The gentilman (at Camping World) called TRS (I supplied the 800 phone number) and after the call the gentilman at camping world got a new unit off the shelf, took it out of the box, and handed me the new unit.

He kept the box so that they could send the defective unit back to TRC.

Now to the point of portable versus permanently installed. For me the portable worked out great as I did not have to disconnect a permanently installed unit and then figure out how to jury rig my incoming electric to get power back into my coach.

I do have a chain and a "doohickey" that electricians use to provide lockout protection on electrical circuits when working on those lines. The "dookickey" has positions (I think) for up to 6 locks and the jaws fit nicely around my 50A cable.

deSanford · 11-26-2011, 08:26 AM

That is a good point codgerbill that I didn't think of. If the unit failed I would be stressed trying to figure out how to by-pass the unit if it was permanently installed. Nice to know that TRS stands behind their unit, and Camping World does also. Just a little more piece of mind. I always like non-eventful motor home trips.

tvman44 · 11-26-2011, 09:35 AM

It is a open neutral that will put 220 on some devices.

My experience with TRC is they will not stand behind you at all, willing to sell you another unit but I will never buy their products again.
Go with Progressive Industries if you want quality and support after the sale.

Quote:

Originally Posted by nodine

You need more than surge protection. What ever you buy make sure it does voltage and ground checks also. If you loose the ground on a 50 amp pedestal then some devices in your coach can be exposed to 220 VAC. Not a good thing.

This is the portable version of the one I linked to above:
EMS-PT50C

Bob

Pusherpilot · 11-26-2011, 11:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nodine

You need more than surge protection. What ever you buy make sure it does voltage and ground checks also. If you loose the ground on a 50 amp pedestal then some devices in your coach can be exposed to 220 VAC. Not a good thing.

This is the portable version of the one I linked to above:
EMS-PT50C

Bob

Hi Bob,

I'm curious as to how losing the ground only can cause exposure to 220v. If you lose the neutral, or the neutral and ground are tied together at the pedestal or power panel and you lose them both then the possibility of 220v is there if the two 120v legs are not on the same phase.

The RV is a unique gadget in that is uses so many power paths that are relay and solid state controlled that is is understandable how "phantom" neutrals can fry your gear. The best defense is a high end EMS device to protect it all. Ours is built in both as a surge protector and EMS device. So far so good.
Ron

wa8yxm · 11-26-2011, 01:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Geaux Saints

Is the "plug in type" equal to the "hard wired" in performance? We were thinking of getting the latter.

In most of the product lines I've checked out, both "hands on" and via the net. The two are IDENTICAL in performance with one minor footnote.

The ONLY difference is the "hard wired type" is in a box with 2 holes for cables and perhaps clamps (perhaps not they can be sold as "Extras" after all)

The "Plug in type" is the identical box with a male and female pigtail installed already.

The footnot.. I can imagine someone overnighting and saying "Oh, I'll leave it in the storage since it's just one night"

Can not happen (Well don't matter) if you hard wire the thing.

I'll hard wire when I finally get one.. But then .. I've got a break out point already in place.

codgerbill · 11-26-2011, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tvman44

It is a open neutral that will put 220 on some devices.

My experience with TRC is they will not stand behind you at all, willing to sell you another unit but I will never buy their products again.
Go with Progressive Industries if you want quality and support after the sale.

tvman,

I can only go by the experience that I had. The unit failed within the warrenty period. I called TRS and they suggested that I go to camping world and have it tested. I took it to camping World and the fellow plugged it into a 30A service. It was obious that it failed as you could hear the relay chatter inside the unit. It was not a constant chattering only intermitent. The time delay light never did stop blinking (if it was ok it would stop blinking after abour 2 1/2 minutes). At that point I gave the phone number and the name of the person I had takled to at TRS. The gentilman from Camping world called and the result was that I got a replacement and did not have to UPS the defective unit bact to TRS (Camping world did that for me).

Perhaps other people have had bad experiences with TRS and Camping World but I have no complaints.

nodine · 11-26-2011, 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pusherpilot

Hi Bob,

I'm curious as to how losing the ground only can cause exposure to 220v. If you lose the neutral, or the neutral and ground are tied together at the pedestal or power panel and you lose them both then the possibility of 220v is there if the two 120v legs are not on the same phase.

The RV is a unique gadget in that is uses so many power paths that are relay and solid state controlled that is is understandable how "phantom" neutrals can fry your gear. The best defense is a high end EMS device to protect it all. Ours is built in both as a surge protector and EMS device. So far so good.
Ron

My bad, I should have said neutral.

Bob

deSanford · 11-27-2011, 05:00 AM

TVMAN could you tell us a little more about your experience with TRS? Inquiring minds would like to know. Also did you buy yours from Camping World? What happened to your unit, and which one did you have?

djhinds · 11-27-2011, 06:30 AM

There is a web site to teach everyone about RV electric. It is at:

RV Electric

You can go to outlet testing and find a 30 amp or a 50 amp tester that anyone can make real cheap. I made the 50 amp and it is easy to use and works great. I bought everything at Home Depo.

50-amp Tester

Dave

deSanford · 11-27-2011, 11:16 AM

THANK YOU djhinds,

Looks like a nice week-end project. I printed a copy and look forward to constructing the unit. Maybe I might install a two way switch to switch the L1 and L2 to the one AC Volt Meter. Nice explanation with GREAT pictures.

M2HB · 11-27-2011, 11:44 AM

Or you could use a three gang box with two voltmeters.

ottffss · 11-27-2011, 11:46 AM

It might be worth repeating that line testers, though useful, do NOT identify issues that occur when the shore power circuit is under load nor do testers identify/protect against transients that may occur during shore power use. You need one of the Progressive/SurgeGuard models to that - and the tester is already built-in with a voltmeter for each leg too.

There are numerous ground/neutral and bad connection issues that only show up when the circuit is loaded or loaded over time - and thus appear to a non-loaded tester to be OK.