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Originally Posted by russ2528
The vendor said to keep them at 110 psi- the RV manual says to weigh the coach etc- which is the correct way?
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The load carrying ability of the tires is directly proportional to the pressure -- the higher the pressure, the more load the tires can safely carry.
The tires will have a tire pressure stamped on the sidewall. This is the MINIMUM pressure required for the tires to carry their MAXIMUM rated load. It's likely that is the pressure the vendor is stating.
Running the tires at that pressure is safe (unless you are overloading the tires, where there will be no pressure that is safe.) However, the ride will be harsher at higher pressure because the tires will be harder. If you do a four corner weighing of the coach and properly calculate the required pressures, you may be able to reduce the tire pressures and get a more comfortable ride.
Running at full pressure is safe and easy, running at the specific pressure for your weight can be more comfortable.
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We stayed at KOA’s with 50 amp hookups but my energy monitor only indicated 30 amps not 50 and rotated AC compressor operation- any thoughts why it’s not registering 50 amps?
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wa8yxm has a valid theory about incorrectly wired pedestals. While rare, it can happen.
Other causes could be a broken or loose connection that is affecting one hot lead, including a bad contact in the socket or plug. Also, the energy monitor is watching the voltages that are tapped off of two key circuit breakers (which breakers will vary by the installation.) If one of those key breakers has tripped, the monitor won't see the 240 volts that signals a 50 amp circuit, and will assume a 30 amp service. Make sure all breakers are on: some styles can trip without looking tripped, and others can't be reset by just pushing them on. To be sure, flip the breaker off and then on again, this will always reset any style breaker.
It could also be a failure in your energy monitor system.
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Any idea why Monaco only use one jack in the front? Our two previous RV’s were more stable using 4 jacks. How can we make it more stable when parked.
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Think of a three legged stool: it's always stable no matter how uneven of a floor it is on. However, a four legged chair or table can rock if the floor isn't perfectly flat.
Similarly, a three jack system will always be in good contact with the ground. It will also be less likely (but not impossible) to twist the frame with only three jacks. Finally (and this could be the biggest reason) three jacks are cheaper than four.
To make it more stable, minimize the length that the jacks are extended. Dump the air bags to lower the suspension as much as possible before operating the jacks. Also, place wooden blocking under the jacks so that they don't have to extend so far. The shorter the jack extension, the less it will move and sway, and the more stable your coach will be.
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I have noticed lately while using my Dish satellite I am getting some wavy lines on the screen. The screen is fine when using the DVD player.
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wa8yxm has some good ideas about grounding.
How is your receiver connected to the TV? If it's connected through a coax cable to the TV antenna inputs, and you need to tune the TV to a regular TV station to watch the receiver, it could be that there is a strong enough over the air TV station on a nearby channel that is causing interference. Your DVD player may be having a good picture because it either has a direct video connection (not through a TV channel) or it is using a different channel that doesn't have interference.
There are several ways to make the connection between a receiver and TV, listed from best to worst:
- HDMI or DVI
- Component video (red/green/blue RCA connectors)
- S-Video (mini-DIN connector)
- Composite Video (yellow RCA connector)
- RF modulator (coax cable to TV, TV tunes in a particular station.)
If you are using one of the higher number (poorer quality) connections, you may get better results moving to a lower number (higher quality) type of connection.
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I have a new power monitor to install to protect me from power spikes etc- Should I just install it for shore power or to also filter after the transfer switch?
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There is a lot of hot debate on that.
Many generators do have some protection against over/under voltage, but that protection can fail, and the wiring between the generator and transfer switch can fail (there is a current thread where someone is getting high generator voltage (145v) on one leg, and low voltage (104v) on another, which is probably due to a broken neutral wire between the generator and transfer switch. Having the power protection after the transfer switch will protect from this type of problem as well as shore power problems.
Then there are those who want to put the protection before the transfer switch, as they are concerned about power problems damaging the transfer switch. This has some merit, but it means that the coach is left unprotected from generator problems.
I'm in the camp of putting it after the transfer switch, and that's how I installed mine. It not only protects against generator failures, but the remote display lets me monitor the current in each generator leg so that I know whether it's getting too high. This method does leave the transfer switch unprotected. However, I see this as a small risk, at least for my transfer switch: the control circuitry and relays are powered by the generator, not shore power, so putting the protection before the transfer switch won't protect those portions of the switch. While putting it before the transfer switch will protect the relay contacts from wiring/power issues, they are not generally affected by those sorts of problems. And, if something should cause the transfer switch to fail, they are easy to replace, and at a couple hundred dollars they not that expensive, at least compared to the thousands of dollars of damage that could happen in a coach when a generator fails.
I put it after the transfer switch, for reasons that I think are convincing, and I'm in good company with a lot of other people who have put it after the transfer switch. But there are also lots of people who put it before the transfer switch, and they are in good company as well. It's a personal decision, which to me came down to what are you worried about most: the transfer switch, or everything else in the coach?
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