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Old 12-26-2015, 01:30 PM   #1
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Power gear hydraulic jack dipping

I have a 2003 vintage coach with power gear 4 point hydraulic leveling jacks. The front two Jacks has a pivot and act as one with o ly 1 button at the control panel. It has two independent control buttons for the rear. My right rear jack will dip down (sag) after a day or so when in the down position. I've checked all manuals online, and what I could find is that I have 3 solenoids back by the pump. I can unscrew a plastic end of the solenoid and remove it from the tube. I don't see any type of adjustment screw. It seems my right rear jack is bleeding back into the reservoir as I have no leak at the jack, and the jack was rebuilt a few years ago from a leak. I can't quite figure out how the solenoid works. Does it trigger something inside the tube it wraps around?
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Old 12-26-2015, 02:56 PM   #2
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Yes, the part you removed just activates the valve which in inside that manifold. My front jacks leak down after 24 hours and I have that valve replacement in my To Do list. If I can find the replacement valve I'll let you know.

BTW I think there are 4 valves back there. Front, left rear, right rear and dump.
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Old 12-26-2015, 03:15 PM   #3
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Dump valve must be located separately. I just notice three valves grouped together with lines running to them. I saw all types of valves on line and can't narrow down the part number. If you find something, please let me know. I'm going to see if I have a manual with detailed parts for this system.
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Old 12-26-2015, 04:04 PM   #4
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Here is a resource
Leveling System Power Gear Hydraulic

You may be able to find the information you need, scroll through the documents and see if you get lucky.

Basically the solenoid is moving a plunger up and down to open/close the hydraulic circuit. When you press the butting it both actuates the pump and then diverts hydraulic oil to whichever jack you are controlling.

I have a RVA system, I have a 3 jack system. If a jack starts leaking down I unscrew the emergency retract screw and that flushes any contaminates out of the solenoid valve. I've had to do that once in the 6 years we've owned the coach.
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Old 12-26-2015, 08:05 PM   #5
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On mine the dump is separate from the others.
I typed in Power Gear jack valve and several came up on Ebay. I remember someone else mentioned he went to a hydraulic cylinder rebuild shop and got a valve for much less.
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Old 12-26-2015, 08:21 PM   #6
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Forgot to mention, you can remove the suspect valve and a known good one and swap them. If the problem follows the swap, then you know the valve is bad for sure.

Here is a picture of a control valve body I found. Let me know if you find a part number for the valve.
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Old 12-26-2015, 11:10 PM   #7
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A couple of things I did to keep the valve from leaking down, were to remove the electrical solenoid,

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from the valve stem. Then remove the stem, number 8 in the posted diagram.

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Once stems are out on bench, hook solenoid to 12V intermittently to move pintle in valve, while spraying with brake clean. Polarity does not matter. If foreign material was on seat, this usually flushes it out. Look closely at end of pintle (maybe 1/4" diameter) through end of valve to make sure circular seat has no pits or voids. If it does, replace with new.

If not, replace the small black O ring at end of pintle, taking care not to damage the two white plastic washers on either side of the O ring. The white washers are split washers and remove the outer one by carefully unwinding it off the shaft. Pay attention to the overlap of the white washer when replacing it after new O ring, so it mates properly.

This O ring, along with the pintle keep the pressure in the system to the jacks.

It is a messy job, but not too difficult. Be sure all jacks are fully retracted before starting. You will need 3 or 4"cans of bake clean on hand.

Remove solenoids from stems, marking where they go back. The wires to each have a black with another color specific for that location. Clean the wires first and maybe you can see the different colors. If not, just number them and let them dangle, remembering brake clean may remove your numbering. Now, thoroughly wash the manifold block, using a brush if necessary. You do not want to introduce any contaminants into the system.

The larger O ring on the pintle should be fine for reuse as long as it is not abraded or has other wear. I did not replace mine. But the small one does form a set on the outer surface and also gets less resilient from age, thereby allowing fluid to bypass.

Follow the instruction above and hopefully you will have the same success as I did.

While at it, drain and fill the reservoir with ATF of your choice.

Let us know how you make out.
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Old 12-27-2015, 06:28 AM   #8
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Very interesting Harry! Great write up.
A couple of questions, if you please:

Will the brake cleaner damage the rubber O rings at all? How about the white plastic washers?

Where did you get the replacement O rings?

I would advise doing the brake fluid cleaning outside to keep the vapors from driving you out of the house and into the "dog house" for a few days! I can see Sharon now " What on earth are you doing that is stinking up the house now???"

Safety goggles are also a good idea since brake cleaner and eye balls don't mix to well.

Thanks again for posting Harry. I've gotta try this fix.
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Old 12-27-2015, 07:16 PM   #9
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The brake clean will work just fine. The O rings can be purchased individually for around $1.00 at Ace Hardware, or you can get a 407 piece assortment for $13.00 on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-407-Piec...eywords=O+ring
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Old 12-27-2015, 08:49 PM   #10
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Thanks for the info Harry. Do you loose lots of fluid when removing the stems?
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Old 12-28-2015, 09:14 AM   #11
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As long as the jacks are retracted, so there is no pressure in the lines, only a few ounces will ooze out when removing all the stems.

Again, clean, clean, clean with the coils removed before removing stems.
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Old 01-27-2016, 11:27 PM   #12
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Quick follow up. Thanks Happycarz for your detailed write up. I ended up buying the oring kit you provided. I thought I had your process memorized from previous readings but I must have short memory. I ended up removing my three stems as well as the dump valve stem. I removed the washers and the rubber oring and cleaned the stems with brake cleaner. I did a quick clean and wipe but did not activate the selenoid. I replaced the small rubber oring with new ones from the kit. The kit only had the exact same thickness oring-maybe even slightly thinner, and the next size up, the oring was much thicker. I ended up using the thicker oring. I reinstalled the stems and put everything back together. I could tell the new orings were slight thick when installing the stems as I had much more resistance when tightening. Basically all I did was replace the orings. I ran a couple of cycles with my Jacks and they are working like new again. Thanks to everyone on this forum.
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Old 01-31-2016, 12:05 AM   #13
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Good work! You saved yourself a ton of money and learned about one more of the coaches systems. Most shops would have thrown the baby out with the bath water, meaning they would want to replace the pump/ manifold system.

Not too difficult of a job, but messy. And, you have confidence when you see how it is done.

I'm glad it worked out for you.
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Old 01-31-2016, 12:10 AM   #14
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I see that you are in Las Vegas. Maybe January 2017 you could join us in QZ for our Monaco gathering. This year we had upwards of 60 Monaco, HR, & Beaver coaches.

A great group where egos don't get in the way and a lot of knowledge gained.
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