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Old 11-03-2012, 07:47 PM   #15
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In my picture of the RRB the big solenoid is the Big Boy used for charging the batteries. The battery boost is one of the smaller solenoids on the right.
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Old 11-03-2012, 09:05 PM   #16
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Here is what the frt streetside elec compartment looks like. Notice the two ignition switch "ON" activated solenoids in the upper left.
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Old 11-05-2012, 06:33 AM   #17
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FWIW you probably have 3 or 4 of these solenoids. I carry a spare as they are inexpensive and not available when you need one.
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Old 11-05-2012, 07:05 AM   #18
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On the Exec and Sigs there arepnly two of the smaller solenoids used. One is the battery boost and the other is the salesman switch. I still think that the OPs original problem was caused by weak or bad batteries that failed to energize the solenoid and that is why it worked OK when the generator supplied full voltage. The FRB on the Exec, Sig and Navigators are a little different from yours. Got a lot more stuff in them, LOL
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Old 11-07-2012, 11:27 AM   #19
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Hello. Sorry to be delayed in getting back, but we've been traveling to what we thought would be a warmer location. No such luck on that one. Lonestarace is correct. We didn't look in the box he mentioned. However, Mike's suggestion got us back on track, but we still want to do more trouble shooting -- hopefully by the end of this week. Thanks again for all of the suggestions/replies.
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Old 11-07-2012, 04:42 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Canter View Post
On the Exec and Sigs there arepnly two of the smaller solenoids used. One is the battery boost and the other is the salesman switch. I still think that the OPs original problem was caused by weak or bad batteries that failed to energize the solenoid and that is why it worked OK when the generator supplied full voltage. The FRB on the Exec, Sig and Navigators are a little different from yours. Got a lot more stuff in them, LOL
I think I have four, two in the forward high current bay and two in the FRB. The Exec has a few more circuits, for sure.

The pic is for comparison.
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Old 11-07-2012, 05:23 PM   #21
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First, my RV is a 2005, Delivered in May.

In November 2006 I was headed to Las Vegas.. Via Utah.. (Took the north route for assorted reasons) I was still north of Salt Lake when I pulled into a Flying-J for propane,, Like you I hit the STORE side of the disconnect switch, I heard a CLUNK, the red light went out and all the 12 volt stuff including the DSI fridge and water heater were turned off (The reason for hitting the switch) By hit I mean press properly by the way.

Gased up, pulled away to park for lunch, hit the USE switch and ... NOTHING.

Well, I wound up bypassing the solenoid for a while, after that I downloaded the service manual for my Battery Control System and figured out that when I pressed STORE the switch sent power to the solenoid, exactly as it should, and the solenoid clunked, exactly as it should. But when I hit USE, nothing, no light at the test point, no clunk, no anything.

Removed the switch (not necessary See next paragraph) and operated it like 50 times,, It is a self cleaning switch and this cleaned the contacts.. Put it back and SUCCESS.

I said it was not necessary to remove the switch..... Pulling the fuse that feeds the switch (Which in my case is a 5 amp job inside the battery control center) would have accomplished the same task and been much easier. The switch has worked ever since.

Why is this: If the switch sets and is not used for long periods of time (years normally) the contacts tarnish, In normal operation they "Whipe" across each other, Self cleaning, but if they are dirty enough the arc of the switch making and braeking as the contacts make'break from tarnish can mess them up faster than they clean.

Removeing power, removes the arcing, and then you operate dozens of time it cleans them up nicely.

NOTE: If it works.. I suggest buying lotto tickets cause Lady Luck is with you,, If it does not work however you are out exactly $0.00 so give it a try, Your free is hearby refunded in either case
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