Pyrometer Install

[William Willard]

Originally Posted by HohoDad

In my 25 years managing a Peterbilt Truck Dealership, Most pryo thermalcouples I have seen are always after the turbo so that when the thermal couple comes apart it does not trash the turbo. Just saying

That would be the safest, & easiest place to install the thermocouple, but not an accurate reading of the EGT -- Maybe 200, 300 degrees cooler than it would be in the manifold -- If I`m having to guess the temperature, why go thru the expense of installing the pyrometer --Bill Willard

[walt2137]

Originally Posted by HohoDad

In my 25 years managing a Peterbilt Truck Dealership, Most pryo thermalcouples I have seen are always after the turbo so that when the thermal couple comes apart it does not trash the turbo. Just saying

Hoho Do you know how much installing the Pyro thermo behind the turbo changes the temp at the gauge, I assume the temp would be lower than the install at the exhaust ??

[Clanton24v]

Originally Posted by walt2137

Hoho Do you know how much installing the Pyro thermo behind the turbo changes the temp at the gauge, I assume the temp would be lower than the install at the exhaust ??

I've read that it can easily be a 200-300 degree difference.

[Mike Canter]

I use EGT sensors in each of the exhaust pipes on our race car. That is eight of them and they really get abused. I have been doing this for many years and have NEVER had one come apart. You should take a close look at them because there is nothing to come apart. I will admit that we have failures. I had two go bad at the NHRA Gator Nationals last weekend BUT I have never had them come apart. They just stop working. There is no way that you will read the correct EGT if the sensor is mounted after the turbo. They have to be installed as close to the head as possible. The standard is 2 to 2.5' away from the exhaust port with the tip centerd in the middle of the manifold. I am amazed at where some of this erroneous data comes from. If you mount them after the turbo and crank that fuel up so you read 1300* then you are going to burn those valves because it will be a lot hotter that 1300* in the manifold.

[Muddypaws]

I've installed several of these, all pre-turbo. What I learned from thedieselstop.com was to start out with a tiny pilot hole and use the next size and then the next size until you get to the size you want. Each bit is liberally coated with wheel bearing grease. Most of the filings come out with the grease and anything that goes out the turbo is small enough to pass with damaging anything.

Been doing it this way since 2001 and I assume others have been using this process even longer. As far as I know there has never been a turbo damaged.

The pyrometer probes themselves are meant for aircraft engines. They don't break apart. If you exhaust got hot enough to melt one it would have melted everything else first.

Not needed in an in-chipped diesel? That depends. If you want to maximize your fuel mileage keeping the pre-turbo temp below 600F is like magic! At least for a Ford 7.3 TDI it is. The last time I towed with my Ford I got 17 MPG towing 11,000 lbs. if only my Bounder could do that!

[deSanford]

Now lets hear about the HUGE difference the MP-8 made to performance and economy. deSanford

[Coma]

I've been considering this mod, too. I like Isspro. What size hole for the thermocouple? 1/8 or 1/4 NPTF? What drill bit size? How deep did you set the probe. Grounded or ungrounded? Did you have to recalibrate the gauge with the longer Lead wire?

[William Willard]

If you go with the Bank`s Kit # 64009, that comes with 55' of lead wire & calibrated for that length, the thermocoupler is set for depth, all you concerns go away -- The other questions are answered in the very first post -- William Willard

[deSanford]

Coma ISSPRO also has a PYRO with a 55' calibrated cable......that is the one we use. deSanford

[Coma]

Originally Posted by deSanford

Coma ISSPRO also has a PYRO with a 55' calibrated cable......that is the one we use. deSanford

Thanks! I like the Isspro.

Originally Posted by William Willard

If you go with the Bank`s Kit # 64009, that comes with 55' of lead wire & calibrated for that length, the thermocoupler is set for depth, all you concerns go away -- The other questions are answered in the very first post -- William Willard

Thanks, I skimmed over that part.

[CoCoDave]

Nice upgrade, Bill! Harry doing his usual quality job.

Well done,

[William Willard]

Originally Posted by WindsorDave

Nice upgrade, Bill! Harry doing his usual quality job.

Well done,

Thanks Dave, I can stand around all day & watch Harry work -- I have a lot of stamina when it comes to that -- I think I heard him say that he has plans to install Pyrometers, MP-8`s & Areo mufflers next year for the Monaco iRV2 group at Quartzsite next January -- So bring bunches of cookies --
Ruby & I missed you & Kathy by a few days at Q this year -- Maybe next year we can get our schdule togeather, so we can be there when you`ll are -- Bill Willard

[deSanford]

Bill has the neatest visor. Now lets hear about the TS Performance MP-8's power and mileage gains. deSanford

[RVhauler]

Burning valves with high EGT's is the least damage possible. Pistons can and will be burned thru (especially aluminum pistons) with further resulting damage