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Old 11-13-2014, 10:08 AM   #1
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Question regarding cargo doors

Just purchased a 1999 Monaco Lapalma. I know that the sides are gel coat but, are the cargo doors gel coat as well or, are they painted? I have very minimal oxidation staring and want to get that under control for next season. Also, the entrance door, is that gel coat as well?

Thanks
TK
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Old 11-13-2014, 10:11 AM   #2
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Welcome to IRV2! We're sure glad you joined the gang here!

Sorry I can't answer your question. I think I would call Monaco tech support and ask that question.

Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!
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Old 11-13-2014, 10:15 AM   #3
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Old 11-13-2014, 06:50 PM   #4
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I own a 2002 Monaco Windsor. I had 3 doors that were damaged and repainted them myself. I also had to replace the 2 piece hinge assembly on 3 of the doors and fix the slide trim. My wife did a heck of a job when she ran into a post at a fuel bay.

Two of the doors I had to paint the bottoms and the third door I had to completely redo. The doors did not have gel coat on them. I have a 4 color paint scheme and had to use 3 colors on the doors.

I used BASF Diamont paint. I sent an email to Monaco and they sent me my paint codes. The paint was a perfect match.

This was the first time I had done something like this and the job turned out pretty good. I'm probably y worst critic but others that have looked at it couldn't tell where I had painted. The hardest part is the clear coat.

I would hate to think what this would have cost at a shop. Practice makes perfect, I'll do better the next time.

Good Luck
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Old 11-13-2014, 07:35 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacwjames View Post
I own a 2002 Monaco Windsor. I had 3 doors that were damaged and repainted them myself. I also had to replace the 2 piece hinge assembly on 3 of the doors and fix the slide trim. My wife did a heck of a job when she ran into a post at a fuel bay.

Two of the doors I had to paint the bottoms and the third door I had to completely redo. The doors did not have gel coat on them. I have a 4 color paint scheme and had to use 3 colors on the doors.

I used BASF Diamont paint. I sent an email to Monaco and they sent me my paint codes. The paint was a perfect match.

This was the first time I had done something like this and the job turned out pretty good. I'm probably y worst critic but others that have looked at it couldn't tell where I had painted. The hardest part is the clear coat.

I would hate to think what this would have cost at a shop. Practice makes perfect, I'll do better the next time.

Good Luck
Jim....Please tell me why you say the hardest part is the clear coat. I'm asking because I'm about to tackle the job of removing sun-damaged, flaking clear coat and re-doing it. We recently bought a 35-foot MH that had been exposed to the brutal heat and sun we have here in Texas. The damage is only on the front and the passenger side. The skirt/bay doors took a beating.

My plan is to wet-sand, starting with 1000-grit paper (and a very light touch), moving to 1200-grit and finishing up with 1500-grit, then spraying with a minimum of four applications of clear coat. I will start with a small area on the last bay door near the back. If that area is satisfactory, I'll continue on until the entire skirt is done. If it isn't satisfactory, I'll go to Plan B. I can't tell you what that is, because I have no idea (yet).

I anticipate that it will take me several weeks due to some physical limitations that come with being a 75-year-old woman, but I have plenty of time. I hope to get started in early January, and my goal is to finish by the end of April. When I read your comment about clear coat, it set off bells and whistles.

Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer.
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Old 11-15-2014, 04:00 PM   #6
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Old 11-15-2014, 05:58 PM   #7
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I am a novice at spray painting and clear coating.

The paint seemed to lay down good but the clear coat did not get to a nice flat high glass flat shine.

I had bought a gravity feed sprayer, my guess is that I didn't have the right nozzle. I didn't spray on liberal amounts of the clear coat as I didn't want it to run.

This is the first time I tackled something like this, practice makes perfect but I don't really want the opportunity to try this again.
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Old 11-20-2014, 08:31 AM   #8
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Good morning all:

I did some research regarding the cargo doors. After a few emails with Monaco I found out that the walls above the cargo doors are in fact gel coat but, the cargo doors are manufactured from aluminum and are painted and finished with clear coat.
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Old 11-20-2014, 10:42 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacwjames View Post
I own a 2002 Monaco Windsor. I had 3 doors that were damaged and repainted them myself. I also had to replace the 2 piece hinge assembly on 3 of the doors and fix the slide trim. My wife did a heck of a job when she ran into a post at a fuel bay.

Two of the doors I had to paint the bottoms and the third door I had to completely redo. The doors did not have gel coat on them. I have a 4 color paint scheme and had to use 3 colors on the doors.

I used BASF Diamont paint. I sent an email to Monaco and they sent me my paint codes. The paint was a perfect match.

This was the first time I had done something like this and the job turned out pretty good. I'm probably y worst critic but others that have looked at it couldn't tell where I had painted. The hardest part is the clear coat.

I would hate to think what this would have cost at a shop. Practice makes perfect, I'll do better the next time.

Good Luck
Jim.....I posted on November 13, asking about your comment regarding clear coat being the hardest part. I figure you missed the post, as I haven't heard back.

I'm getting ready to start on our MH and am wondering what was difficult about clear coat, since that's my primary target.

I'd appreciate your input if you have time. Thanks in advance.
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Old 11-20-2014, 11:20 PM   #10
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Art,
Having sprayed two stage urethane several times, I can tell you it is not difficult. It is, however dangerous to your health and you should consider getting a pressure respirator. Check out Hobby Air if you are interested. I got one of their systems and really like it. Look it up on Amazon.

Back to the subject. The base coat sprays on real easy and dries very even. One nice thing about the base (color coat), is that if you don't like a spot, you sand it down and recoat just that spot. The clear covers all and you will never see the spot. Try that with any other paint.

It can be tricky to get the clear to go on wet enough to flow out but not so wet that it runs, especially on vertical surfaces. Be sure to talk to your paint supplier about what kind of gun, which tip and your air supply, as well as which reducer to use for your current climate, and follow that to the letter. Try some sample coupons to get used to the gun. Then, go at it.

The nice thing about urethane clear is that if you screw it up, you can sand it down and recoat. If you don't screw it up too bad, you can color sand and buff it out. No one will ever know the difference. In fact, several of the professional jobs I have seen have had to be color sanded and buffed to take out the orange peal and a couple small runs. Talk to your paint supplier about color sanding and get your paper from him as well as a couple good sanding blocks. It will pay off.

I am no expert painter, but I have painted the front of my truck, several dinged bumpers, and a whole 34' Winnebago motorhome with two stage urethane. Not every job went on perfectly but every job came out looking very nice after I color sanded and buffed. I don't think any of them would have looked as good with conventional paint.

I hope I am giving you some encouragement to go ahead with it. In my discussions with two professional painters they both said it is easier to do two stage urethane than conventional paint. One of them does touch up on new Corvettes for a local Chevy dealer in his open garage. (I am sure he is breaking all the rules.) But I have seen it and his work and it is beautiful.

I am sure others would argue with this. As I said, I am no professional painter, but I do know what I have done and I like spraying this stuff. I think it is easy. It sets up fast and is very forgiving in my opinion. Because it dries so quickly, there are very few dust specks and any that you do get, color sand right out. I have also sprayed automotive enamel and lacquer in the past. I prefer two stage urethane because it is not any harder to spray, but is much more forgiving, and can be made to look great. Plus, it is much more durable.

A secondary benefit is that the Hobby Air pressure mask I use is like wearing an oxygen mask. The air is cool, my glasses don't get any paint on them, and I feel protected, as long as I don't get tangled up in the hose and hang myself.

So, I encourage you to go for it. You will only get good with practice. Maybe you can talk to a pro painter or someone at your supply house about technique and get some hints. There are also some pretty good YouTube videos that show technique. I encourage you to check them out.

Sorry for the long post. I just couldn't sit hear and watch you worry about this. It is not that hard. PM me if you wish and have any question.

Good luck,

Roy
P.S. I got some Diamont paint for my coach and am about to redo the tops of my front and rear caps due to clear coat peeling. I am not the least bit worried. I know it will turn out good.
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Old 11-20-2014, 11:26 PM   #11
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ARt,

I just re-read your post. If you are considering putting clear over old base after you sand off the old flaking clear, I suggest you don't do it that way. It will show every area where there was flaking clear, and you will most likely blow through the color coat anyway. I suggest you bite the bullet and respray the base as well. It is the least expensive component in the system and your paint shop can match your color pretty well. It will look a lot better.
It goes fast. You spray the base and by the time you clean the gun and load the clear, it is time to spray it. That's the way I have been told to do it. Everyone I talked to said don't try to re-clear over old base.

Good luck!!
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Old 11-20-2014, 11:28 PM   #12
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OOPS. Bev, I think I called you Art. Sorry.
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Old 11-21-2014, 07:46 AM   #13
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Clear Coat

tomkoroluk

I did reply to your question regarding the clear coat but here is another thought.

As I was preparing to do my motorhome I also decided to redo the front and rear bumpers on my Jeep. When I did the clear coat on the Jeep I ended up getting "Orange Peel" which is basically are dimpels. Worse on the first, less on the second.

I did research and also talked to the paint supplier. I read many articles, and watched a number of YouTube videos. That was the extent of my training.

When I painted the motor home I had to paint each color separately, meaning taping and retaping for the design. This was the first time I did this and it went pretty well.

As soon as I was done painting I went after the clear coat as I was told not to exceed 24 hours or there was a risk of the clear coat not sticking. I sprayed about 4 coats of clear coat. It doesn't seem to have the same shine as the original but from a distance it looks good. Just about everyone that I showed can't tell where it was fixed, I guess I'm my worst critic.

You say you talked to Monaco and that they applied a gel coat to the door but when I sanded mine down there was not gel coat, unless it was a clear gel coat???? From what I can tell they applied the darkest color first, in my case Black and then went with the other colors. Mine are aluminum doors.
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Old 11-21-2014, 10:30 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmcb View Post
Art,
Having sprayed two stage urethane several times, I can tell you it is not difficult. It is, however dangerous to your health and you should consider getting a pressure respirator. Check out Hobby Air if you are interested. I got one of their systems and really like it. Look it up on Amazon.

Back to the subject. The base coat sprays on real easy and dries very even. One nice thing about the base (color coat), is that if you don't like a spot, you sand it down and recoat just that spot. The clear covers all and you will never see the spot. Try that with any other paint.

It can be tricky to get the clear to go on wet enough to flow out but not so wet that it runs, especially on vertical surfaces. Be sure to talk to your paint supplier about what kind of gun, which tip and your air supply, as well as which reducer to use for your current climate, and follow that to the letter. Try some sample coupons to get used to the gun. Then, go at it.

The nice thing about urethane clear is that if you screw it up, you can sand it down and recoat. If you don't screw it up too bad, you can color sand and buff it out. No one will ever know the difference. In fact, several of the professional jobs I have seen have had to be color sanded and buffed to take out the orange peal and a couple small runs. Talk to your paint supplier about color sanding and get your paper from him as well as a couple good sanding blocks. It will pay off.

I am no expert painter, but I have painted the front of my truck, several dinged bumpers, and a whole 34' Winnebago motorhome with two stage urethane. Not every job went on perfectly but every job came out looking very nice after I color sanded and buffed. I don't think any of them would have looked as good with conventional paint.

I hope I am giving you some encouragement to go ahead with it. In my discussions with two professional painters they both said it is easier to do two stage urethane than conventional paint. One of them does touch up on new Corvettes for a local Chevy dealer in his open garage. (I am sure he is breaking all the rules.) But I have seen it and his work and it is beautiful.

I am sure others would argue with this. As I said, I am no professional painter, but I do know what I have done and I like spraying this stuff. I think it is easy. It sets up fast and is very forgiving in my opinion. Because it dries so quickly, there are very few dust specks and any that you do get, color sand right out. I have also sprayed automotive enamel and lacquer in the past. I prefer two stage urethane because it is not any harder to spray, but is much more forgiving, and can be made to look great. Plus, it is much more durable.

A secondary benefit is that the Hobby Air pressure mask I use is like wearing an oxygen mask. The air is cool, my glasses don't get any paint on them, and I feel protected, as long as I don't get tangled up in the hose and hang myself.

So, I encourage you to go for it. You will only get good with practice. Maybe you can talk to a pro painter or someone at your supply house about technique and get some hints. There are also some pretty good YouTube videos that show technique. I encourage you to check them out.

Sorry for the long post. I just couldn't sit hear and watch you worry about this. It is not that hard. PM me if you wish and have any question.

Good luck,

Roy
P.S. I got some Diamont paint for my coach and am about to redo the tops of my front and rear caps due to clear coat peeling. I am not the least bit worried. I know it will turn out good.
Roy.....Thanks so much for the response. I feel more confident after having read your post, and I appreciate your including so much detail. I'll tackle this job right after the beginning of the year, and will let you know how it works out.

By the way, Art isn't doing this. I (Bev, Art's wife) am.
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