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Old 06-22-2015, 04:28 PM   #29
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Please try it and let us know how it works.
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Old 06-23-2015, 06:11 PM   #30
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I am going to order the product and try it when I get some time. I'll also order their citrus adhesive remover. For the cost why not try it. If this stuff really works, might help a lot of us with the terrible looking front end.

I'll post when I start to give it a try.
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Old 06-24-2015, 04:36 AM   #31
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I'm in process of removing mine. Pretty much following all the comments here and other postings, using a steamer and plastic scrapers.

I did find that Goof Off Pro (not the regular version) will remove the glue, just takes a few passes and leaving it on for a minute or two to soak. Putting a piece of saran wrap over the remover helps it work and not dry out.

Mine was 11 year old (factory install) and had severe(!) mildew underneath. Paint shop had reluctantly offered to remove and if necessary repaint for many $$, so I figured try it myself, nothing to lose.

Will be a project... no easy strips coming off, but managed a couple panels around the headlight in about 3 hrs. Final result after waxing (done after last photo) looks almost new. Looks like a summer-weekend project for now... but at least there is life after Diamondshield.
Nice job! It looks really familiar to me. The old part that is. Since we have the same coach I'm not surprised. This has been a project I have been avoiding but maybe this summer.

I might try using MEK to remove the adhesive. It worked when I was repairing a Zodiac inflatable boat we owned and all the glue needed to be removed before re-gluing. The MEK substitute is available at hardware stores and is safer than the old stuff. Acetone didn't work bad on the boat either.
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Old 06-24-2015, 07:11 AM   #32
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About to head out for more scraping with rapid remove - got to get at it early cause its 95 by noon so rapid remove dries before it hits the glue - No luck trying the saran wrap. - . I tried everything else and it works about the same. I'm finding that the glue comes off the light brown and black pretty clean and looks nice BUT the Gray stripe across the front is a very hard and a light coating of glue almost impossible to get off - Not to mention that it scratch's very easy. I might have to get it painted... ugh
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Old 06-24-2015, 06:43 PM   #33
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Have to put my two cents in here...After getting the vinyl off using the same methods mentioned, I too became frustrated with getting the adhesive off. I stumbled across Wyrick's Sticky Substance Remover. I can only say, it worked.
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Old 06-25-2015, 04:50 AM   #34
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I might try using MEK to remove the adhesive. It worked when I was repairing a Zodiac inflatable boat we owned and all the glue needed to be removed before re-gluing. The MEK substitute is available at hardware stores and is safer than the old stuff. Acetone didn't work bad on the boat either.

Wow, you're brave. MEK and acetone are pretty aggressive solvents. It's one think to use them on the rubber of a Zodiac, but I would be afraid of paint damage on such a visible area of the coach. Good luck, but personally, I would stick to milder solvents that have less chance of attacking the paint. (Lacquer thinner would be another one that would probably work great, but shouldn't go anywhere near the paint!)
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Old 06-25-2015, 05:13 AM   #35
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Wow, you're brave. MEK and acetone are pretty aggressive solvents. It's one think to use them on the rubber of a Zodiac, but I would be afraid of paint damage on such a visible area of the coach. Good luck, but personally, I would stick to milder solvents that have less chance of attacking the paint. (Lacquer thinner would be another one that would probably work great, but shouldn't go anywhere near the paint!)
I thought about that too. Maybe trying a small, not so noticeable area first to try it out would be a good idea. The side view mirrors have the awful stuff on them and like the rest of it cracked and turning black. Might be a good place to start.
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Old 06-25-2015, 05:33 AM   #36
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You did a great job BILL. Looks brand new. I'll do the same with mine when and if it cracks and peels. On a 03, mine still looks brand new. The secret to keep it that way is to wash it everytime you use it and before we have that drink with our neighbor and wax with a good liquid wax like Mother's.
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Old 08-09-2015, 12:52 PM   #37
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I've been doing the same removal project on my Vectra and had to share a new product for removing the adhesive (after using the red plastic razors to remove the plastic)...

Was at the local hardware and he told me to try a new product they had received that others were raving about, so I tried it and WOW was it easy to remove the adhesive. Just a tap or two with the red plastic razors on the thicker remnants and the glue came right off.

The product is call "Paint & Graffiti Wipes" made by Jack Manufacturing. They come in a can and look a lot like Handi-wipes etc but are a bit larger and orange. One side is smooth, the other is rough, and whatever they have on them ("Proprietary formula") really cuts the adhesive. Not carried in any of the big box stores nor Amazon at this time that I've been able to find, seems to be mostly in mom-and-pop hardware stores based on their web site. Can be ordered from them directly or they have a list of stores across the US. Apparently these folks have been making industrial chemicals for 40 years and are now branching out into consumer products. HIGHLY recommended. I rarely due product raves but these things really made a difference once the plastic was removed. https://handcleaner.com/Products/Wipes
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Old 08-09-2015, 05:31 PM   #38
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So what is everybody doing after the removal? I would think that applying a new mask would be in order to protect the paint for another 8 year or so. Or is everybody just leaving it?
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Old 08-10-2015, 05:33 AM   #39
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So what is everybody doing after the removal? I would think that applying a new mask would be in order to protect the paint for another 8 year or so. Or is everybody just leaving it?
I'm going bare on ours, with frequent waxing and bug removal. No doubt it will pick up some dings over time but won't look as bad as the 3M after deterioration.
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Old 08-10-2015, 06:48 AM   #40
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Quick-N-Easy for 3M mask glue removal to the rescue

One thing to consider: I've heard anecdotal reports that while the genuine 3M Diamond Shield has a good track record and long life, there are imitators out there that do not enjoy such a good reputation and are prone to failure. Since 3M originated the product, and has a good name, most people seem to call any clear shield a 3M shield whether it was made by 3M or not. Much like some people call all tissues Kleenex, or all copiers a Xerox.

Did Monaco use the actual 3M product, or one of the cheaper alternatives? Is there a way to tell? Might using the genuine 3M product give better results?

I don't know the veracity of the "inferior knock-off" claims, or what product Monaco actually uses. Just trying to spur some thought on the subject.
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Old 08-10-2015, 07:05 AM   #41
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Now you tell me!! I sure could've used those wipes last week! Just completed removal of my "genuine" Diamond Shield. WOW what a job. My hands and fingers are still cramping. To give Ada's it's due it was 12 yrs old and was just starting the crazing/mold in the cracks. But DW hated how it looked, so off it came. Will probably also just wax and keep bugs off, but a bra is under review.
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Old 08-10-2015, 07:46 AM   #42
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Adam, my Monaco build sheets states that it is 3M. My guess is they would not lie on the build sheet. Also, is there anyone out there with any motorhomes dated from the 2006 and earlier that has an original equipment shield that is NOT cracked or crazed. I would like to hear that.
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