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Old 03-14-2008, 11:15 AM   #155
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Sixpack98,
I like what you did with your tv upgrade. I am wondering if your model tv opening was the same as mine. 06 Endeavor paq. I would like to upgrade mine as well but without haveing to do much removal of wood. Do you know if your cabinets on your coach are the same as mine? If so what did you have to do to make your 32"
fit?


Thanks
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Old 03-21-2008, 06:57 PM   #156
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Good idea on filtering the return air. With a dog, a cat and a bird, we're a rolling EPA disaster. Just another one of those things I have no say about.
I'm installing my Tire-SafeGuard this weekend. How did you mount your sensors? (I have steel wheels and simulators.) Did you rebalance the front wheels? Any tips much appreciated.
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Old 03-23-2008, 12:59 PM   #157
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Quote:
I like what you did with your tv upgrade. I am wondering if your model tv opening was the same as mine. 06 Endeavor paq. I would like to upgrade mine as well but without haveing to do much removal of wood. Do you know if your cabinets on your coach are the same as mine? If so what did you have to do to make your 32"
fit?
Thanks Ed. I think the cabinets are the same on the PAQ and PET. If you can find a 32" that has the speakers on the bottom then very little, if any, cabinet modification would be required to allow the TV to fit between the 2 end cabinets. I've seen several TV replacements where the TV sits in front of the existing center cabinet. I replaced the Sharp 26" and the 32" replacement was a little taller and it had a flush mount lip all around. Since I wanted the tv to look built-in I rotated the bottom panel around to save the lights at the bottom and made a new front trim piece and side pieces. I also built an aluminum frame that attaches to the steel header in the cabinet as well as the sides of the cabinet. It ended up requiring quite a bit of construction but the end result was a built-in look. I was able to move the TV about 2" toward the front of the coach - the TV edge hides the unfinished portion of the adjacent cabinets and the headliner indentation. The cabinet is about an inch taller - the replacement TV is taller than the Sharp.

I have some pictures in my IRV2 album that might be useful to you.

mark
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Old 04-13-2008, 02:49 PM   #158
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Very simple mods:
Added a shelf across two thirds of the overhead cabinet above the couch to hold paperback books. Plastic L angle holds them in place.


Added hooks under the bedroom TV shelf to hang hats or other items of clothes.


When 'the Drifters' visited our new motorhome Mike suggested the following change. Since it's almost always just the 2 of us, this works really well. Even when family members have stayed with us, it still works well.

Removed the 2 sliding doors in the bedroom that closed off the bed. This gives us 4"-6" more at the foot of the bed. By opening the bathroom door you can close off the back area from the front area. (the door opens completely and touches the opposing wall. thinking about a small magnetic latch, but it's not really needed.) This opens up the bathroom and provides a large dressing area. The bathroom is opposite the W/D cabinet. You can still close the bathroom door for privacy if needed.


Added the gift we received while at the Monaco Pre-Rally. mom2mastiffs Karen & Jeffrey also received one, but they had a different plan for theirs. We weren't quite sure what it was, but we use it as a plastic bag holder.


Added 3 shelves to the small hanging closet next to bed. Also added wire shelving above the propane tank, but no photos yet. I said these were simple mods.
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Old 04-16-2008, 05:58 AM   #159
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Power-outlets for small electric heaters.

It gets irritating to plug a small electric heater into an outlet only remember that the microwave and hot-water heater are also running, just as the breaker trips and cuts out everything. Unfortunately, there are only so many outlets and so many breakers in our coaches so load-management is a must. But there may be alternatives.

I got to thinking that the overhead AC units are on their own dedicated 20amp breakers and, since there should never be a time that one would be running an AC and heater together, why not tap into that line and have it do double-duty? Obviously, this wouldn't work if you were to use the heat-pump at the time as the heater, but only for one or the other.

So I'm in the process of running a line from the front AC unit wiring to a convenient spot at the front for a heater, and the same for the rear AC unit and heater. This way, the heater will be on the same 20amp breaker as the AC and separate from all other circuits on the respective power-leg.


(I must note here that this is working with 120vac wiring, as well as changing the design of the original power-load configuration of the coach, and anyone not comfortable with either of those aspects should not attempt anything like this.)


Ron
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Old 04-16-2008, 06:14 AM   #160
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A rain-gutter/dam along the roof-radius.


We were parked next to a coach the other day that had a piece of black weatherstrip along the top edge of their roof, running the full-length of the coach on both sides. They had pulled out early the next morning before I got a chance to ask what it was for (I'm nosy like that), but it finally dawned on me that it was a gutter/dam''. Can't tell you the number of times I've had water-drops drip off the edge and fall right down my neck while trying to get something out of one of the storage compartments, so this is a welcome task.

I'm not sure yet what thickness/height/width would be best (haven't made a HomeDepot/Lowe's run today to do a survey), but I'd guess anything that will attach to the roof-radius material and hold some kind of shape would work well. It should be a simple job to clean off the surface and lay the material out close to the edge but not so far as to look obtrusive (unless you use white weatherstrip) to allow any dew/rain/etc to be caught and channeled along to the front and rear caps and then downward.

Be sure to not channel the water directly at a vent, seam or gap and end up creating more problems.

Ron
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Old 04-18-2008, 06:00 PM   #161
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US Gear Unified Brake Controller Interface

There were two issues installing the Unified Brake from US Gear. First, there was no firm location of where Monaco located the prewired connector for the Brake Controller. US Gear thought it should be located behind the IP at the headlight switch, but it wasn't; and Monaco just states that it's somewhere in the IP. Although US Gear only needs a four wire connector, Monaco installs a 6 wire connector loaded with 5 wires as shown in the first photo below.

Once I located the Monaco connector, I decided the best place to install the controller was over a blank switch plate that I removed for the controller wire and its connector to pass through as shown in the second photo.

The second issue was the US Gear Unified Brake package contained only one adapter from its connector to that in a Freightliner chassis. Monaco and my Monaco Dealer Service department does not carry the mating connector for the Monaco side. I called US Gear Customer Service and they make the adapter cable that goes from their controller connector to the Monaco prewired connector, but they didn't include it in the package because the pin out had not yet been defined. The last photo shows the location of the two connectors and controller, but the adapter cable from US Gear is still "in the mail". They did want the model and serial number of their product I purchased before they would send the adapter. Hope this helps others headed down this same road.
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Old 04-22-2008, 06:08 AM   #162
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Quote:
Once I located the Monaco connector
Camelot Camper,
Where did you find the Unified Brake connector? a couple of the wires in this connector run to the back of the coach and I want to use them for another purpose.

thanks,
mark
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Old 04-24-2008, 02:40 PM   #163
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Mark,
The access panel hole shown in the photo above is just in front of the instrument panel on top of the dash. The connector was on top (lucky me) but it is not labeled or numbered in any way to let me know this is the brake controller interface. I had to compare the stamp on each wire with the wiring diagrams to determine this was the right connector.

I also received the adapter cable in the mail but was unable to use it because the pins Monaco used and those in the mating connector were both female pins. AP Products who took over this product from US Gear stated Monaco sends them the mating connector and they had no male pins to send me. I ended up cutting off both connectors on the Monaco side and splicing but still very happy it was prewired. System works good but it was a lot of work laying in a new harness in the car.

CC
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Old 05-02-2008, 10:47 PM   #164
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It has been a while since I have added any little mods. Here are a few things -

Little clear bumper on the lid of the toilet so that it doesn't bonk the wall when you open it up -


The magazine rack in The Library (oak(ish)rack from Camping World) -


A dimmable string of LEDs above the windshield - behind the sunshades and in front of the curtains. Makes a nice red glowing windshield at night. It is quite easy to pick ours out of a lineup I also added some strings under the front curb slide. Makes for a nice glow at night, and the red doesn't mess with my night eyes -


Installed dimmer switches for most of all of the halogens in the coach. I saw the dimmer switchs in a Safari coach we looked at, but Monaco wanted $40/switch. Found them on Ebay for $10/ea, but now I see they went up to $20/ea -


Added an LED block under the thermostat that is switched by the outside switch on the SeeLevel panel. Lights up the controls for late night adjustments, going down the road, etc.


Not a mod, but an honorable mention. I found out how to open the covers on the awning toppers This may have been common knowledge, but I was excited to find out how they worked. There are small pins on either side of the cover. Push in a pin and lift the cover. Repeat for the other side. The covers flip right up and you can get all the pine needles out of there!




More organizing than modding, but made a huge difference. I drilled a hole in the corner of the desk and poked in a cord insert. I then ran all of my cords down the back, added a monitor stand so I could stack two laptops, and got a 24" monitor! I removed the valences on the side of the window. What a pain that was. If anyone wants to see some pictures of how the valances are attached, let me know. I just hope I never have to take another one apart.

Orig setup+ new monitor. Cords were a little out of control -


New setup with stacked laptops, new cord hole, and removed valences -




Mod on.

--kev
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Old 05-02-2008, 11:26 PM   #165
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Hey Kev...just curious.. Why did you remove the valance?



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Old 05-03-2008, 06:34 AM   #166
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Quote:
Originally posted by MonacoMama:
Hey Kev...just curious.. Why did you remove the valance?
So that I could fit a 24" monitor on a 16" wide desk

--kev
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Old 05-18-2008, 08:12 PM   #167
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REROUTING BEDROOM TV AUDIO

Our Camelot has the bedroom Radio/DVD unit with speakers installed over the head of the bed. I wanted to also use these speakers for the TV audio because every time the air conditioner came on I would have to turn the TV speakers up, and then back down when the AC went off.

From the wiring diagrams I determined the video line from the Radio/DVD player to the TV also had left and right audio lines. I removed the TV wood frame to pull out and rotate the TV to access the AV cables. I removed the left/right audio cables from the TV audio input connectors and moved them to audio input/output #3. I had to go to the SETUP menu on the Sharp 20" Aquos TV to select/define I/O #3 as an output with variable volume. Likewise, I pulled out the Radio/DVD player and moved the AV cables from the audio output to the audio input connectors.

Now with Aux In selected on the Radio/DVD, TV audio is delivered directly overhead instead of across the room. The Radio/DVD remote is now used to mute and control the TV audio. This modification took about 30 minutes and was well worth it.

CC
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Old 05-20-2008, 10:21 AM   #168
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Two easy mods, one done and the other when it stops drizzling. Last month, while driving through Louisiana, we finally tracked down an insane whistling to my missing weep-hole covers on the drivers side window. Before leaving Camp Monaco Wildwood last week, I replaced the 21 missing weep-hole covers. The techs' there recommended that I use black silicone on the top and leading edge of each cover to keep them from blowing off or becoming dislodged during washing. I picked up a small tube at the local Auto Parts store for about $4.00 and the entire process took less than 15 minutes. good looking job and they are not coming off accidentally. The second project is to put strips of anti-slip tape on my slides to make the slide seals go in the proper direction when opening or storing them. They said that slide seals will break down alot sooner if they are buckled or twisted for long periods of time. A mechanic gave me a ten foot by 1 inch roll and said to put 6 inch long strips about a foot apart on all my slides. He said DO NOT get the 'sandpaper' type of anti-slip because that would damage the rubber seals! The kind he gave me looked like the black sandpaper kind but it had a rubber feel to it. My wife is hoping this works because her self appointed job is to take the awning rod and pull out the seals after the slides are out. We'll let you know how this works after we apply the strips. BTW, ain't got a clue how to put the strips on the top of the slides. That could be fun!
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