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Old 08-18-2022, 09:36 AM   #1
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Radiator cap lb rating info

I want to replace my radiator cap on my coach but the lb rating is not on the cap, labelís missing. For my year coach with Cat C9 what lb rating should I get?
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Old 08-18-2022, 10:36 AM   #2
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Update: the Bar rating of 1.3 was stamped on the cap, which converts to 18.85PSI. So the question is this the correct rating for my coach as it's not the original cap that came with the coach?
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Old 08-18-2022, 03:46 PM   #3
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Ken, my Cummins came with a 9lb cap. I would expect a 9-12 lb range for yours.

For each pound of pressure the boiling point is raised approximately 3į above the boiling point of 212į F.

9 x 3 = 27 212 + 27 = 239į, well above the engine derate point. So, my engine would derate before forcing any water out of the radiator pressure cap.

I assume your CAT would be similar, but donít know what Monaco used as original equipment on your coach.
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Old 08-18-2022, 04:55 PM   #4
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Quote:
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Ken, my Cummins came with a 9lb cap. I would expect a 9-12 lb range for yours.

For each pound of pressure the boiling point is raised approximately 3į above the boiling point of 212į F.

9 x 3 = 27 212 + 27 = 239į, well above the engine derate point. So, my engine would derate before forcing any water out of the radiator pressure cap.

I assume your CAT would be similar, but donít know what Monaco used as original equipment on your coach.

After digging in the coach manual it appears from a photo that Beaver was putting 7lb caps on my Contessa Cat C9. To me 7 seems low and 18 that's on there now is high. So thinking maybe a 13. I could be wrong and am open to suggestions.
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Old 08-18-2022, 07:28 PM   #5
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Pretty sure my coach with a Cummins ISL has a 13 or 14psi cap.
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Old 08-19-2022, 07:40 AM   #6
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One of the problems with the higher rated cap, is as the plastic tanks age, they get brittle and are more likely to leaks or have a complete failure.

When mine started to leak, I replaced it with a stainless steel one from Source Engineering. It was plug and play.
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Old 08-19-2022, 08:37 AM   #7
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I agree about the plastic tank and changed over to a metal one awhile back.
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Old 08-19-2022, 01:48 PM   #8
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I had local radiator shop make me an aluminum tank back in 2009. The original tank started leaking at the ultrasonically welded neck to tank.

Iím still running my 9lb cap.

The radiator cap does not make the pressure. It just keeps the pressure in the system when the rise of pressure exceeds the boiling point, 212į.

The engine/cooling system is what determines the coolant temp.

Automobile gas engines run hotter than our diesel powered motorhomes. We are used to our cars, and thereby associate that cooling system with our Diesel engine cooling system.

On some cars back in the 90's and 00's the electric radiator fan kicked on at 229į, if not running a/c. Some ran the fan at slow speed until 229į, then went to high speed. Still others had two fans the would turn on sequentially as temperature hit the set point.

If my motorhome even gets close to 220į, I am looking for reason. So far, my max is 216į on my SilverLeaf. And, I donít like that!

Every two years I saturate my radiator, CAC, and condenser with simple green purple, from both the front and the rear. Then I flood it with medium pressure water hose. I disconnect the electronic motor controller and let the fan run full sped and set engine to fast idle, 1200rpm. All the water gets sucked out, and then I have the task to make the engine look pretty again.

Mind you, I have a side radiator.

Last year I was hitting 214į. I washed the radiator this spring. On 110įday pulling 6% grade, I only saw 205į.

I also use a long ľĒ copper tube attached to my compressed air blower to get between the radiator and CAC at the bottom where somehow leaves find a way in. I do this before the washing.

I hope all the tidbits in this thread help other folks with both maintenance and heating issues.
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Old 08-20-2022, 11:39 AM   #9
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Radiator cap lb rating info

I get what your saying Harry which is why Iím going to drop the rating of the cap. I donít want the cap to compensate for an engine thatís running hot. If engineís hot it will derate and I monitor temp all the time when traveling. Also clean radiator out but just been spaying water thru it, havenít tried the Simple green purple one that youíve used.
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Old 08-20-2022, 02:37 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kketterling View Post
I get what your saying Harry which is why Iím going to drop the rating of the cap. I donít want the cap to compensate for an engine thatís running hot. If engineís hot it will derate and I monitor temp all the time when traveling. Also clean radiator out but just been spaying water thru it, havenít tried the Simple green purple one that youíve used.
I was told the cap pressure is very important to engine cylinder cavitation. You run the cap cat says to run for your engine.
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Old 08-20-2022, 03:50 PM   #11
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Iíve been doing my calc all wrong. Been basing boiling point on plain water or 212 deg but based on 50/50 water and antifreeze mix boiling is 223 plus a 7 lb cap raises it another 21 degrees putting me at 244 degrees total.

My engine the warning light will come on at 225 and derate at 226. So Iím going to stick with the 7 lb cap recommended.
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Old 08-20-2022, 06:33 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happycarz View Post

Last year I was hitting 214į. I washed the radiator this spring. On 110įday pulling 6% grade, I only saw 205į.
I've never seen over 205F, and before I installed the Scangage, I would often change the screen to Alladin during long climbs, to watch temperatures!
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