Relay Location?

[Happycarz]

Key on

86 - 9.47v
85 - .068v
87a- 1.75v
30 - .068v

Engine running

85 - .126v
86 - 7.79v

I just trying to verify, understand, the voltage on the different pins. Is what I wrote correct?
Key on, pins 30 and 87a should be the same at battery voltage.

[Red Rocker]

Originally Posted by Happycarz

Key on

86 - 9.47v
85 - .068v
87a- 1.75v
30 - .068v

Engine running

85 - .126v
86 - 7.79v

I just trying to verify, understand, the voltage on the different pins. Is what I wrote correct?
Key on, pins 30 and 87a should be the same at battery voltage.

That is correct.

[YC1]

https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Re...ords=1432873-1

These files were on some of the previous posts about the issue.

Changing the combining solenoid should have not had effect on the alt fail light circuit unless you are running the engine while plugged into shoreline.

I asked previously if that was the case and got no response. The charger from shoreline does not play well with the alternator.

Things could get fooled if you have enough solar as well. Any charging source with the alternator running can cause confusion.

[RamiDav]

Did we ever get an understanding of when the alt light is coming on ?
Is it on anytime the engine is running or is only when on shore
or gen and engine is running ?
I think it makes a difference when it comes on and how to correct it .

There is another relay in my rear elect called a battery maintainer lock out .
I'm not sure what all this relay does but it seems to lock out one or the other
charging source when they conflict .
Monaco incorporated so many different systems that a blanket cure will not
always apply to someone else's coach .

I can not seem to post a picture on here so here is a link to pictures

http://www.irv2.com/forums/attachmen...7&d=1538330007

http://www.irv2.com/forums/attachmen...8&d=1538330007

Ray

[Red Rocker]

Originally Posted by YC1

https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Re...ords=1432873-1

These files were on some of the previous posts about the issue.

Changing the combining solenoid should have not had effect on the alt fail light circuit unless you are running the engine while plugged into shoreline.

I asked previously if that was the case and got no response. The charger from shoreline does not play well with the alternator.

Things could get fooled if you have enough solar as well. Any charging source with the alternator running can cause confusion.

It stays plugged in, but the light is on either way, the minute you turn the key on it lights up & doesn't go out, unplugged or plugged in. I do have on solar panel, but it's parked in my shop with skylights being the only source of sunlight. There is supposed to be an inline 5amp fuse somewhere that might be the problem.

[Happycarz]

Ray, sorry late getting back to you. What are the readings on 30 and 87a while running. I’m still trying to determine if your coach is wired like your schematic with Country B's added wire. Or, if it is like Myron's relay schematic and mine.

The other place that you could check is at the dash bulb. That’s how I figured how mine was wired. If one of the two contacts at the bulb goes to 12v (battery voltage) when key is turned on, then the relay is working on the ground side. Once the alternator is charging and sending 7v to the 86 terminal when engine running, the relay opens the circuit.

And, 86 should not have 9.47v key on, engine off. I’m not saying it doesn’t. Just that it shouldn’t.

Next question, do you have a 12v test light. I sure wish you were closer where I could do some hands on testing for you. Meanwhile, I guess you just have to go through all this "stuff" to figure it out.

Also, were you able to see the wires going into back of relay socket. It looks like your white wires have black lettering on them. If so, the lettering references the circuit they are hooked to.

[R&J]

? Poor ground

[Red Rocker]

Originally Posted by Happycarz

Ray, sorry late getting back to you. What are the readings on 30 and 87a while running. I’m still trying to determine if your coach is wired like your schematic with Country B's added wire. Or, if it is like Myron's relay schematic and mine.

The other place that you could check is at the dash bulb. That’s how I figured how mine was wired. If one of the two contacts at the bulb goes to 12v (battery voltage) when key is turned on, then the relay is working on the ground side. Once the alternator is charging and sending 7v to the 86 terminal when engine running, the relay opens the circuit.

And, 86 should not have 9.47v key on, engine off. I’m not saying it doesn’t. Just that it shouldn’t.

Next question, do you have a 12v test light. I sure wish you were closer where I could do some hands on testing for you. Meanwhile, I guess you just have to go through all this "stuff" to figure it out.

Also, were you able to see the wires going into back of relay socket. It looks like your white wires have black lettering on them. If so, the lettering references the circuit they are hooked to.

I do have a 12v test light, it's the one thing I know how to work.
86 Alt Relay
87a Alt Failure
30 Low Volt
85 Ground

30 running is .131 87a is 13.8
At the bulb, I got 0L on one side & 00 on the other with the key on assuming I did it right.

[Red Rocker]

Originally Posted by R&J

? Poor ground

Possible, don't know where the ground is located.

[CountryB]

Originally Posted by Red Rocker

30 running is .131 87a is 13.8
At the bulb, I got 0L on one side & 00 on the other with the key on assuming I did it right.

When you read ".131" on a digital voltmeter - that means you have "zero" voltage on that terminal. The meter's auto-voltage-range is floating from microvolts to volts scale.

So basically you have no 12V power to terminal 30. What we still don't know, is if terminal 30 is providing 12V power to the light (like my circuit drawing), or providing the "ground" for the light (like Harry's drawing).

[Seaplane]

Originally Posted by CountryB

When you read ".131" on a digital voltmeter - that means you have "zero" voltage on that terminal. The meter's auto-voltage-range is floating from microvolts to volts scale.

So basically you have no 12V power to terminal 30. What we still don't know, is if terminal 30 is providing 12V power to the light (like my circuit drawing), or providing the "ground" for the light (like Harry's drawing).

Didn’t read all of the posts, but could it be a bad “Diode Trio” in the Alternator?

[Happycarz]

Red,
Just find what you think is ground behind dash, clip onto it, and probe a known 12v source to verify that test light is working properly. If no light, find another ground. Then retest alt light bulb on both sides.
If true that no voltage on both sides of bulb, it would appear that you are feeding bulb 12v, like your schematic, with Country's added wire. And, not like mine. It wouldn’t surprise me.

Another test you could do is clip the test light to 12v and probe the bulb socket. If the test lights lights up, the. Your schematic is probably right.

If so, feeding 87a 12v would turn on the light.