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Old 05-04-2016, 09:28 PM   #1
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Question Removing storage compartment door

I own a '04 Holiday Rambler Vacationer which is the sister of the LaPalma and have a driver's side rear compartment door that seems to have something in the top of the door behind the side trim where the door is attached and hinges. It causes the trim to expand away from the sidewall when the door is closed and lets moisture in behind it and has pulled the caulk loose from the trim and side, too. I would like to remove the door to investigate the problem. How can the door be removed? My first thought is to remove the screw / rivet that holds the side trim at the rear but I would hate to disturb the painted caulk if that is not the correct way. The second thought is to disconnect the gas shocks and it may just swivel up and come out of the channel. Anyone know for sure?
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Old 05-06-2016, 06:03 PM   #2
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I just lifted the door on mine and took out the screws holding the door to the hinges (wanted to have the door repainted ) Have also pulled the trim out with no problems with the paint. Used a two sided three m tape to reinstall and all went with no problem
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Old 05-06-2016, 06:50 PM   #3
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Removing storage compartment door

Thanks to mikedes for the response. I am not seeing any hinges on mine. I think that yours is a diesel coach which makes it a little different than mine. I will look again tomorrow to make sure that I am not missing something.
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Old 05-06-2016, 07:57 PM   #4
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Does "hinge" look like this?

THis is how my cargo door is "hinged". Does this help?
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Old 05-06-2016, 09:16 PM   #5
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Thanks, Robi.1014! I am sure that is how mine is. Can I just unbolt the gas shocks and pull the door up and then push down?
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Old 05-07-2016, 06:23 AM   #6
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This is the hinge system that Monaco used, it consists of 2 aluminum extrusions that work like a standard hinge. The piece of extrusion that is mounted to the door is cut in a way that it allows for the proper spacing of the doors for the opening and other doors.

I had to remove 4 of my drivers side basement doors to repair after my wife had a pole jump out at her at a fueling station. (that's another story).

If you remove the struts you can lift the door up almost vertical with the side of the RV but it will not release from the interlocking system of this style hinge (unless one or both sides are wore out/bent).

To remove the door fully you have to remove take the struts off and then remove a small pop rivet that Monaco put in to keep the door centered with the other doors and opening. You then have to slide it out of the track. If there are any other doors mounted next to it you will have to remove those first.

When you get done you just have to slide the door back into the track and install another rivet or small screw to keep the door centered.
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Old 05-07-2016, 08:29 AM   #7
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Jim nailed it. Well 'splained.
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Old 05-07-2016, 10:16 PM   #8
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Thank you, jacwjames. That is what I was waiting to hear. I looked at it toady very closely and I was going to try to raise the door and see if it would drop out but now I know that the rivet will need to be drilled out. It is the last door on the driver's side so no other doors will interfere with it. Somehow there is something in the track that makes the trim and upper track expand away from the sidewall as the door is closed but recesses as the door opens. Except for the limited space there I would swear a rock or screw is there. I just acquired the coach in March. There doesn't seem to have been any obvious body repair done to affect it. I will try to find out tomorrow if forecasted rain holds off.
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Old 05-11-2016, 12:23 AM   #9
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Removing storage compartment door

Thanks to jacwjames! I finally accomplished exploring and repairing the problem. After removing the screw on the end of the side moulding / upper part of the hinge I was able to slide the door rearward and out of the groove. But the trim was loose farther forward than just at the rear end. I then hesitantly removed the center plastic trim that covers the screw heads to find that 10 were rusted and sheared off which caused at least one to get caught in the door when it was lowered and latched. I drilled new holes in between the old ones which were only far enough in to reach the plywood sides. I went all the way through the plywood into the metal reinforcement behind it. That allows it now to pull the trim securely against the side panel and eliminates the larger bead of caulk that had been necessary to fill the gap. I reinserted the trim in the channel and except for a small amount if paint loss from its removal it is good as new. See my pics!
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