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Old 02-29-2012, 12:39 PM   #1
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Replacement of Slide Bulb Seals and Flap Seals

I am in the process of trying to Replace the Slide Seals on a 2002 Diplomat Triple Slide. Has anyone replaced either of these Slide Seals on a similar Coach? Thanks.
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Old 02-29-2012, 01:17 PM   #2
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I replaced the bedroom slide on my coach. The old seal failed as the metal fingers inside the seal rusted out. This seal was made by Uni-Grip. The new seal is made differently and manufactured by Clean Seal. They do not sell direct but you can get it from:

ParKin Accessories Inc.
2920 Gateway Dr
Elkhart, IN 46514
800-637-8938
Slide-out gasket material, RV weather seals, Seal, RV gaskets, Trailer seals, window seals

It also has the metal fingers but they are in-cased in rubber. Installing it on the sides and bottom was not as hard as the top. There was no support under the top of the slide and it would flex downward. I placed a 1 x 6 across the slide top so I could lever against that to seat the seal.

There is very little room to work seating the seal and your fingers will get very sore. I used a flat-bar to help move the seal into place and seat it.

The corners is where you will have a problem and the top must overlap the side so that it directs water out. Then the sides must overlap the bottom for the same reason.
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Old 02-29-2012, 01:28 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rex View Post
I replaced the bedroom slide on my coach. The old seal failed as the metal fingers inside the seal rusted out. This seal was made by Uni-Grip. The new seal is made differently and manufactured by Clean Seal. They do not sell direct but you can get it from:

ParKin Accessories Inc.
2920 Gateway Dr
Elkhart, IN 46514
800-637-8938
Slide-out gasket material, RV weather seals, Seal, RV gaskets, Trailer seals, window seals

It also has the metal fingers but they are in-cased in rubber. Installing it on the sides and bottom was not as hard as the top. There was no support under the top of the slide and it would flex downward. I placed a 1 x 6 across the slide top so I could lever against that to seat the seal.

There is very little room to work seating the seal and your fingers will get very sore. I used a flat-bar to help move the seal into place and seat it.

The corners is where you will have a problem and the top must overlap the side so that it directs water out. Then the sides must overlap the bottom for the same reason.
Rex, how did you remove the old seal? What do you use to install the new seal? Also: this is something I would probably not be able to do, so would a dealer do that or? Reason I ask is the lower seals on my slides are kind of crushed in, not too poochy anymore....
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Old 02-29-2012, 04:07 PM   #4
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Kent, on my coach, which is a Monaco Diplomat, you can only install the seals by hand. I did use a flat pry bar to help, but mostly just my fingers. The type seal has a center U shape and the U slips over the edge of the coach sidewall around the hole the slide goes into. I have no idea how yours is attached, but not every manufacturer uses the same type seals.
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Old 02-29-2012, 10:05 PM   #5
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Rex, I really need to move my Curb Side slide about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch toward the front of the Coach. The front sidewall flap/seal(behind the passengers seat) bearly touches the side of the slide as it moves in and out. This lets water get in when there is a heavy rain or is wind driven. Have you had the occasion to try and move/adjust any of your slides laterally? And if so, where are the adjustments? Thanks. BTW, do you have a picture of the Seal material that you used? And is it sold by the foot, etc?
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Old 02-29-2012, 10:28 PM   #6
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Rex, On second thought, after looking at your referenced website....I need to measure the width of the Seal that is not making good contact, and maybe I can get a larger Seal from this company. Installation of a new Seal would be a lot easier than trying to move/adjust my slide.
A couple of years ago I had to reattach my Driver side Dinette Slide at the top where the metal clips you spoke of had turned loose. I used windshield sealer to reattach that seal. It's still holding last time I checked. But, I probably need to pull that one loose as well and replace it. Your right, in saying that it is a tight space to work within.
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Old 03-01-2012, 03:14 PM   #7
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I had problems with the seals on my bedroom slide on my 2003 Diplomat. The flap seal leaked when the slide was open and the slide flange seal leaked when closed. It took awhile to solve but I finally did.

First the Flap Seal:
Like yours, the slide was off center and barely touched the forward flap seal. I could not find an easy way to move the slide to center. You can adjust height and angle some but the attach point at the slide opening is fixed and does not appear to be adjustable (at least I couldn't find one). What I ended up doing is bonding a vinyl trim piece on the top and both sides of the slide at the location where the flap seal touches it when open. The trim is about 2 inches wide by maybe 1/8" thick. This provided a better fit to the flap seal and more importantly it provided a slight curb to keep water from even touching the seal as it runs down the sidewall or along the top of the slide. I got the trim from Home Depot. It is often used to trim around vinyl retrofit replacement windows.

Slide flange seal.
The original seal is pretty small and my slide has a very bad warp in the top flange such that the seal didn't even touch the wall with the slide closed. It took a long time to find because it is hidden by the slide awning. It also didn't seal well along the sides. I ended up replacing the original seal that is about 1/2" high with a hollow bulb seal that is about 1" high. Problem solved. I believe I bought the seal from Trimlok. I don't remember the exact part number but here's a similar seal:
2828 Series Rubber Seal - D-Profile - Trim-Lok



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Old 03-01-2012, 05:16 PM   #8
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David on my living room slide, the only adjustments are under the slide itself. Have not look at how it could be moved front-to-back but that should be possible. It can be adjusted to lower or raise either end, or so that it closed all the way around.
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Old 03-01-2012, 07:31 PM   #9
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Thanks for the assistance guys. A Monaco Tech I talked with said the plate at the end of the gear driven rail(Plate is attached to the inside bottom of the slide) that the plate could be reamed out to make a slot, and then the slide could be moved. after a close inspection of the plate he spoke of......it is welded to the end of the gear driven rail. So the slide would have to be supported if the plate is unbolted from the slide. Soooo, I don't think I'm going to tackle that at the current time. The solution described by Jeff might work to fill the close/near fit of the slide seal. I'll give that a try first and order some of the Bulb Seal to go around the outside of the slide as well. Then see how I come out.
After I install the Bulb Seal, I will try and install some of the Seal Flaps you spoke of Rex.
Again, thanks for all of your experience and assistance.
David
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Old 03-01-2012, 08:31 PM   #10
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Yep David. I saw that plate too and thought about how to unbolt and move it and then came to my senses. Way too involved. I was really surprised it had no adjustment to center the slide in the hole. Once it's in, it's not moving.
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Old 03-02-2012, 09:40 AM   #11
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I would like to see just exactly how these slides work on an animated or cg video showing all the parts in action. I have no clue where the gears/motor/tracks or even where to find them on mine.....Its almost maddening....
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