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Old 10-10-2020, 10:38 AM   #1
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Replacing A/C gaskets

My AC units are original and still work but I have had occasional leaks. I have periodically tightened the 4 bolts that hold the AC units down but I think I need to replace the gaskets as they are all original and I have no doubt they are compressed.

My AC unit is 630515.321E1

The gasket number shown in the parts breakdown is 3100247.000, these are available for $33

I have the condensate drain cups and tubing but my parts list does not show this but I did find a posting saying it is 3107688.016, which has the 2 cups, and tubing plus gasket and spacer. I am not sure of the condition of the cups, I know previously I'd observed that the lip on at least one of them is cracked. Has anyone had to replace these. I guess I could purchase and return if I don't use but looking for advise. The kits are available for $73.

I assume that I will need add another gasket to account for the tubing. Do they make an all in one kit that has 2 gaskets, 2 cups/tubing, and spacer. Buying everything piece meal is $105 per AC unit. Yikes Anyone know of a good source/pricing.

I did find instructions for the condensate cups, which shows 2 gaskets.
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Old 10-10-2020, 10:51 AM   #2
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…..replaced both the gaskets and cups awhile back....PPL might have them at a good price but basically Dometic is a rip-off....you can find cheaper gaskets but they are usually open-cell foam and collapse quickly....I used two gaskets for each unit, more room for cups, and drain cups hoses can go between the two gaskets and not affect seal....have to cut and reseal gasket at the corner to get A/C control/power wires inside the opening....units are heavy so I put hard rubber blocks of appropriate thickness on the four corners of units to support the units on the roof and not crush the gaskets over time....with gaskets only, torque for the hold down rods is like 50-60 INCH/LBS so not much to stabilize units on the gaskets....
PS--if OEM, your units are getting pretty old--you may have to redo the gaskets one day soon anyway....
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Old 10-10-2020, 11:01 AM   #3
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Thanks Old Scout


Yup , I may have to replace eventually but for now they seem to be doing fine. I did have to replace the blower motor on the front AC in 2015 and lived in the coach for over a year while building our house so they got a work out and performed well.
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Old 10-10-2020, 12:05 PM   #4
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Good morning Jim; I am basically in the same boat you are on my 01 Windsor. On my last trip in August down by the Columbia River here in Wa. state, the wind was blowing and I had the A/C running. Noticed water running off the roof and never had that before. Got up there for a look and I thought the wind was so strong that is was blowing water out of the drip cup. So I thought, no big deal. Got home and ran the front A/C and water started running off the side of the coach and dripping on the inside. Found out that the cups and tubing were full of crap, and I mean lots of crap. Could not get 90 PSI from my compressor to clear the lines and had to use a wire to clean out the cups and tubing.

I too have tightening the hold down bolts a little over the years, bought this coach in 2005, because of some slight leaks when it rains real hard and so far so good. The tubing routing for the front and rear A/C are different. On the front A/C the tubing from the left side of the coach is routed through a cut out in the gasket where the right side the tubing is run in-between the upper and lower gaskets. The rear A/C has both tubing lines run in-between the upper and lower gaskets. Now I know why when I washed the roof I would get some water on the floor from the left side of the front A/C because that drip tube was routed through that cut in the gasket and was not sealed. Sealed around tube and now no water gets in. Have no idea why these two A/C's have different routing for the drip tubing.

So I am off track here. Will be interesting to see what you do Jim. I know you will let us know what route you take.
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Old 10-10-2020, 01:36 PM   #5
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Yes, I have had to blow my drain lines out a couple times but since I haven't been running the AC units I know thats not the problem. I just moved my rig on to the new concrete slab I poured ~+3 weeks ago so it is sitting pretty darn level. I did use one of the rear jacks to tip it a little to see if the water will run off.

Since this is a 2002 rig built in late 2001 I think it's time to change he gaskets. Before I order a drain cup kit I will crawl on top and inspect. I may take a chance and just order one kit to have on hand.
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Old 10-10-2020, 01:56 PM   #6
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I just pressure washed my roof... now the front AC drain seems plugged up. Same symptoms as you had. Did you remove your AC unit to get to the cups & drain tube? What a screwed up design! Mine just started leaking down the side instead of the drain tube, I blasted air backwards from under the coach up n thru the unit and I hear lots of air gushing out but when I started the AC again its still leaking out of the cup & onto the roof. Any info appreciated! Thanks
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Old 10-10-2020, 02:00 PM   #7
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...the plastic cups get brittle with age and are prone to cracking, and or, power washing--[smile]
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Old 10-10-2020, 03:09 PM   #8
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Hi Jim; Yes things are getting along with age so it's getting time to do those job I have been putting off and for some reason don't want to do!

As Old Scout mentioned those drip cups can become brittle and if out in the direct sunlight they get worse. Don't have to worry about that too much here in Wa. state.

Hi Denforent; On my Dometic's for some reason there seems to be access to the drip cups on the right side of the A/C units. The edge of the drip cup hangs down about 1/4" from the base of the A/C and the left side the lip of the cup is right up tight to the bottom of the A/C. Thought this was strange but my friend with a 2005 Monaco Camelot says his drip cups are just like mine???? So I had some access to the right drip cups. I used a very small plastic tube I had and after running a wire from the right drip cup over to the left I inserted the plastic tube all the way over to the left cup. Then using compressed air into that tube I drew the plastic tube back to the right side slowly. WOW! You should have seen the crap fly out of both drip cups. After that I could apply compressed air to the bottom of the drain at the front bottom of the coach and the lines were clear. No more water running off roof. Kind of drove me nuts that it took that much to clear the cups and the lines. Hope this info helps!
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Old 11-21-2020, 02:56 PM   #9
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Well, I received the new gasket sets a couple weeks ago but it had been pretty cold until today so I decided to go ahead and tackle on the AC unit gasket changes.

I decided to start with the rear, I had periodically had leaks on this unit also.


The previous owner had installed an outlet under the AC filter cover and the AC unit itself just plugged into the outlet for 120 VAC power. I still had to take unhook the 2 phone communication lines and the 12 DC wires.

Word of caution on the 12 volt, I had put wire nuts on the chassis side of these wires but left the +/- wires going to the AC unit loose. At one point while I was moving the unit around the + wire contacted the ducting which as a skin of aluminum on it, the wire sparked and I poo'd my pants. The power came from the capacitor in the AC unit. Just a word of caution to wire nut both sides.

I took out the 4 bolts and headed to the roof.

I was able to pull up the AC unit off the roof with a little force and found the problem with why I had a leak, previous installation had misaligned the second gasket see pictures. Because the gasket was essentially not in line the first gasket I don't see how it was making a decent seal as the bolts could not pull this side down due to the front gasket and spacer gaskets at the rear.

One thing I also found was that the small duct coming from the AC unit that mates to the rood ducting was not sealed correctly. I saw that at one point it was but the AC unit had been removed at some point and just resting on top the the duct. The duct was actually crushed/broken on one side, I repaired before setting the AC unit back down. After closer examination I could see that when the AC was first installed a section of the bottom of the ducting accessed from inside was cut loose and folded down so the AC transition duct could be completely sealed. The hole was then taped back up. I'll do the same when I finish the job.


Back to the install

I used a utility knife to cut the old gasket off the bottom of the AC unit. I was able to get most of it off and used a heavy putty know to get as much of the rest off. I did try to use a solvent to get the remainder off but it was futile.

I did remove the 2 drain pans, they looked OK but very brittle, since I bought a new gasket set I decided to install the new drain pans and lines. I'll keep the old ones as spares.

I installed the first gasket, cut slots where the drains piped through. added some sealer to prevent leaks and then installed the second gasket.

I did not remove the spacer gaskets at the rear of the AC unit, they looked good and were not compressed. I also figured it would be a challenge to pull the AC units down to them with the new gaskets.

Flipped the AC unit back over and aligned back over the opening.
Went back inside and put the 4 bolts in and started to pull the AC unit down,

I went ahead and cut a hole in the AC ducting to check alignment to the AC unit, it was good. The last thing I'll do is use foil tape to seal the transition piece to the ducting and also seal the ducting up.

I used a battery drill with adjustable torque set at a low setting and snugged up the all 4 bolts the same torque. I'll check them with a lb in torque wrench tomorrow after the gaskets have compressed some.
I went ahead and reattached the wires to check the AC unit and put it through the AC cycle, seemed to work fine. I'll test it again tomorrow before finishing everything up, with the last thing being sealing the ducting,
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Old 11-21-2020, 03:09 PM   #10
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Waited for the dew to burn off this morning before starting the 2nd AC. Since I knew what to do it was a bit more efficient, I disconnected all wiring and cut the foil tape around the duct from the ac to the roof vent duct and took the 4 bolts out before I headed on the roof with the goal of not having to make multiple trips up and down the ladder. The only thing I forgot was antenna was down and in that position was in the way, had to go back down and lift the antenna.
Pulled the AC unit up and on it's top. It must have been a Monday when they installed the AC units, on the front the second gasket was completely misaligned on one side, see picture.
Stripped off the old gaskets and drip pans.
Put the first gasket on, slotted it to accept the drip pan and tubing, attached the pans, attached the second gasket, flipped the AC back over and aligned to the old footprint.
Went back inside and put the 4 bolts in, repositioned the AC unit to align with the duct work, started tightening the bolts. While I was at it I went back and tightened the rear bolt and alternated back and forth until I got the AC units snugged down during the entire process.
Wired up the front AC and put it through a test before finishing taping up the connections.

Kept tightening the bolts until the duct from the AC was mated to the roof ducting. At that point I went ahead and used foil tape to seal up the transition duct piece to the roof vent and then sealed up the access hole I cut. Did the same thing to the rear AC unit
Finished everything up and then put bot AC's through a test, seemed to work good and I have no doubt that doing a better job of sealing the duct work will reduce air short circuiting, especially in the rear AC unit.



We are expecting quite a bit of rain next week which provide for a good test on my work.
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Old 11-21-2020, 03:13 PM   #11
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Here's the picture of the front AC with the misaligned gasket, not sure if this was a mistake or on purpose
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Old 11-21-2020, 03:42 PM   #12
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Are these unit's like a refrigerator in that you need to leave them right side up for a few hours after having them on their side, or upside down?
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Old 11-21-2020, 06:25 PM   #13
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No idea, just followed instructions which said to turn them on their top. No mention of having leave them one way or another for any length of time.
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Old 11-22-2020, 09:56 AM   #14
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Probably a good idea to wait a while to fire it up just to be sure.

Jim, in your picture I noticed you have a foam strip just aft of the gaskets.
Much of the weight is hanging rearward of the 4 bolts, mine has a foam strip
farther back. I can't tell in the picture if you have a strip back there but if you
don't maybe the bouncing of that unsupported weight caused the gasket to
slip out of place up front.
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