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Old 10-03-2020, 07:44 PM   #1
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Replacing blade valves for grey and black dumps

Hi,
On my new to me 2002 Monaco monarch, these valves are leaking. Dealer replaced black tank valve but not grey. Black may be ok but not certain. Grey always trickles out a tiny stream that will not shut off. Currently have clear extender with cap that has hose fitting. Put a ball valve on that and I use a short green water hose to drain it off before I can connect stinky slinky.
Question - how do you get to these valves behind the control panel? How do you replace them when they are so buried? I think both need to be done correctly.
Also, after dealer serviced black valve, the grey tank sensors no longer work. Is wiring for that in this area?
Thanks for any info.
Doug
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Old 10-03-2020, 08:01 PM   #2
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First see what brand, use a mirror, flashlight, cell cam. Order the valves, grey should be 1 1/2" or 2" read it on the valve. Black is 3". Unscrew the handles and pull the panel off. I did a borax and dawn dishsoap flush first. Made everything clean and no stink. Hope this helps.
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Old 10-03-2020, 08:52 PM   #3
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Doug-

Access depends on the model.

Our HR Admiral is a "twin" of the Monaco Monarch. You access the black water valve through a hatch on the passenger side, and the grey water valve, too, if you have long arms. Alternatively, you can get to the grey water valve by removing the "white panel," as "shootist"suggests.

On our coach, the tank level monitor wiring for both black and grey water tanks runs in the same area as the grey water tank outlet piping, which is up and to the left behind the "white panel."

Our coach came with cable-operated valves. I modified the piping to eliminate the cables.
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Old 10-05-2020, 10:01 AM   #4
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How did you modify the piping? Did you use a different style valve?
I have had both of these currently installed valves vibrate open on the road. Grey water appears to be original with a cable between handle and blade. Black was replaced and has a stiffer plastic coated cable. Both have excess travel at panel but still vibrated open. I have a "hillbilly" assist on it right now hoping for at least no black tank solids again. Consists of eye fasteners either side of each handle and using small bungee across and over the handle to apply small closing force on handle on the road.
This seems like a compromised design to me and options that actually work would be appreciated.
I expect that the 5 south of sacramento will test my "fix" as it is one giant pothole.
Also, I do not have space and a dump site at home so if anyone knows a reliable RV service center that can do this near anaheim ca, I would appreciate the input.
Even with all the shakedown issues, I really love this coach and just want it fully functional and dependable.Click image for larger version

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Old 10-05-2020, 05:21 PM   #5
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Busbreath-

I rebuilt the piping downstream of the original valves. It took three tries until I got it; I had to take my time. I can provide a list of the parts.

The original cable-operated valves are still in the piping, but permanently blocked open.

Now, both valve handles are directly in front of you when you open the wet bay door.

I also rigged up a semi-permanent backflush system.

Is your 2002 Monarch a 32PBD or a 34PBD model?
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Old 10-05-2020, 08:22 PM   #6
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It's the 32PBD. We had a 32' class C before and this is so much nicer. Just have some issues to resolve. Mechanicals are great - just had everything serviced and replaced the 2 tires that she'd out. We are now about 1900 miles into a 2500 mile shakedown trip and the dump valves are by far biggest issue.
Can I ask why you added new valves downstream instead of replacing the originals?
Thanks,
Doug
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Old 10-06-2020, 05:52 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Busbreath View Post
Can I ask why you added new valves downstream instead of replacing the originals?
The cable-operated valves were difficult to operate and service. They could not be removed from the drain system. I could not cut the valves out and have anything left to glue in pieces of straight pipe; Valterra does not make a spacer that fits in the place of a valve.

Two pictures below, before and after. You can see the grey and black water valve handles immediately below the "Fresh Water" hose bibb.
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Old 10-06-2020, 09:43 AM   #8
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that looks like an easy fix. who makes that? can i buy that from amazon?
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Old 10-06-2020, 03:57 PM   #9
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bwanna2016-

I can provide you a list of parts. It took me hours of labor (and three attempts) to get the new piping correct. Worthwhile, but not easy.
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Old 10-06-2020, 04:30 PM   #10
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thanks anyway. i thought these were manufactured parts. nice job on yours. i'll bet you could have a full time job revamping people's sewer lines. ha
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Old 10-06-2020, 06:17 PM   #11
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bwanna2016-

The wye shown below the valves is a Valterra part. And, the elbows and couplers above the valve are common black ABS parts. The secret to success is getting the pipe lengths correct, and then gluing it all up at just the needed angles. First time was close, second time a crazy drunk showed up, the third time was the charm.
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Old 10-06-2020, 08:36 PM   #12
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Ok, I'm ready for that list!
After driving from Weed to Coalinga today on the bestest most craptastic road Cali has to offer (highway 5), I know for certain the current setup is toast. My brand new black tank valve vibrated open even with the handle bungied shut and filled the drain pipe with "stuff". I had to drain it into a bucket in small amounts thru a ball valve that had about a 3/8 thru hole and would get clogged with said "stuff" as I tried to reseat the valve which was not cooperating. This 3x on this trip that this has happened and I never want to have this genuinely unique experience again.
These cable operated valves were a terrible idea and I need to move to a better solution.
If you could provide a couple more pics and part numbers, I would be very grateful.... My wife would also like me to diminish my language skills as well...
Thanks,
Doug
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Old 10-07-2020, 05:26 AM   #13
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Doug-

The parts list is attached. I've updated it, but from memory, so it may not be 100 percent correct. You need to check it against your coach's plumbing, anyway.

The original owner of my coach installed a washer/dryer. That changed the grey water drain piping. Had he not done so, I might have been inclined to cut out the cable-operated valve and glue on from there. The black water valve was too close to the tank outlet to take that chance.

It took me quite a while to get the new piping installed- over a month, if I recall. Your coach will be out of action unless you get adept at replacing the old outlet piping.

I was able to get the entire original drain pipe assembly from the cable-operated valves to the outlet elbow out in one piece. I still have that assembly. If you can do the same, it will help tremendously in building the new assembly.

If I had your coach I might try and get the cable-operated valves working correctly before I dove into the rebuild. There is something significantly incorrect about them or their installation; they should never vibrate open. Once you have them working correctly, the pressure to replace them as I did is lessened. My coach's cable-operated valves worked fine until the day I took them out. I did modify the cable runs to reduce binding, though.

By the way, I have a Monaco drawing that implies my coach's valves were originally rod-operated. I could have lived with that.
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Old 10-07-2020, 09:46 AM   #14
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Thanks for the parts list- I will review when I get home.
As for the original valves, I have no experience with them actually working. They must have at some point, but not now. Cables are flimsy and not positive when trying to seat valves and service is next to impossible. We have space for washer/dryer but was not plumbed. I have added shelves in that area so not likely to add it now... Good idea about getting original outlet for template- my machinist background may help with making a jig of sorts to fit from...
Thanks for your help!
Doug
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