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Old 09-23-2013, 08:04 AM   #1
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Replacing Dometic 1402 with Samsung RF-197

Well I have gotten started on my replacement project. The 197 has been in the garage for months and I have been on the road. I am now going full tilt on this project. I have taken a few photos, and if someone can tell me the "Very Easy" way post to them I will share my project experience with all. I will also be posting free parts in the classified section for folks that need/want them.

Started working at 8:30 am (just me). I have completed the disconnect of all the service lines, removed 6 screws from the rear base, 2 screws in top underneath the top molding trim (These screws went into the upper style/face frame and 2 screws from underneath the bottom door hinges these went into the bottom style/face frame. I then pulled the 1402 into the rig about 6 inches, removed the doors, shelves and bins. I am heading out to Northern Tool for a cheap dolly. I am going to set it up like Nodine did his dolly. If all goes well I hope to have the old unit out of the hole very soon. Will update through out the day.

George

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Old 09-23-2013, 11:08 AM   #2
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Keep us posted, can't wait to see the pics.
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Old 09-23-2013, 11:59 AM   #3
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Update: Found a $24.95 (900 lbs capacity) at Northern; however I did not need to modify the dolly. My son came over to lend me a hand. We were able to pull it the rest of the way out and then lift it out and set it down on the dolly and rolled it right into the middle of the living area. I will remove the cooling unit later today, once that is done I hope to take it right out the entry door. So for I have about 50 lbs of doors and shelving removed. I have heard that the cooling unit is about 80 lbs, does any one know for sure? I am guessing that will leave about 150 lbs of box.

I have removed all the sub floor and support frame where the Dometic use to sit. Boy oh boy Monaco used a lot of staples and glue, but now it is all gone and I am starting on my new sub-frame and base floor. I will have an approximate 1 and 1/2 " air gap between the top of the furnace and the new floor base. I am trying to keep the Samsung as low as possible.
Once the new floor is in, I am going to line the walls with 3/4" insulation form/aluminum foil back board.

Well back to work, will update soon.

George
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Old 09-23-2013, 12:35 PM   #4
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George, in the event that removing the Norcold out the door is a problem, it is sooooooo easy to remove and reinstall a window. It will probably also prevent you from having to disassemble the Norcold to get it out, and minimizes any chance of damages to the fridge or the coach.

Looking forward to your pix, especially the new floor beneath the fridge.

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Old 09-23-2013, 04:35 PM   #5
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Last update today:

The old unit is on the trailer ready for the salvage yard as soon as I take out the "Computer" boards or what ever they are called. After removing the DW seat, hand rail, and opening the door all the way I had 26.5 inches opening and 26.25 worth of old Dometic. We were able to get it out with the cooling unit still on. NO DAMAGE to Coach. Not sure if I will tackle getting the 197 in tomorrow, may wait until the weekend. I can get my neighbors to help for a six pack.

I have completed the new sub floor frame. I used treated 2 x 4 and cripple studs for the frame. Every thing was glued and screwed. In the morning I am off to Lowes for a sheet of 3/4 exterior plywood for the floor. All of this should be about 200% stronger than what it replaces. But I must say the Monaco design worked without issue for almost 7 years. They used 3/4" X 3/4" strips for the frame and OSB for the flooring.

I am going to reuse the water line for my ice maker, but I am thinking of adding an independent drain valve some how. I will look at all the plumbing stuff at Lowes in the morning.

The LP gas line was removed and capped. I also kept the 12 volt line, but not sure why.

The 120 power is not an issue, I am just relocating the old boxes and using the inverter plug so if I need the inverter while driving I can turn it on.. If all goes well the outer wall will be insulated and everything will be ready for the new unit tomorrow afternoon. But it may be Saturday for the big event.

Still do not know how to post pics so I will just talk about what I am doing.

George
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Old 09-24-2013, 04:55 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmyEOD View Post
Last update today:

The old unit is on the trailer ready for the salvage yard as soon as I take out the "Computer" boards or what ever they are called. After removing the DW seat, hand rail, and opening the door all the way I had 26.5 inches opening and 26.25 worth of old Dometic. We were able to get it out with the cooling unit still on. NO DAMAGE to Coach. Not sure if I will tackle getting the 197 in tomorrow, may wait until the weekend. I can get my neighbors to help for a six pack.

I have completed the new sub floor frame. I used treated 2 x 4 and cripple studs for the frame. Every thing was glued and screwed. In the morning I am off to Lowes for a sheet of 3/4 exterior plywood for the floor. All of this should be about 200% stronger than what it replaces. But I must say the Monaco design worked without issue for almost 7 years. They used 3/4" X 3/4" strips for the frame and OSB for the flooring.

I am going to reuse the water line for my ice maker, but I am thinking of adding an independent drain valve some how. I will look at all the plumbing stuff at Lowes in the morning.

The LP gas line was removed and capped. I also kept the 12 volt line, but not sure why.

The 120 power is not an issue, I am just relocating the old boxes and using the inverter plug so if I need the inverter while driving I can turn it on.. If all goes well the outer wall will be insulated and everything will be ready for the new unit tomorrow afternoon. But it may be Saturday for the big event.

Still do not know how to post pics so I will just talk about what I am doing.

George
Sounds like thinks are going smoothly George. To post pictures go to the Photo tab above and to My Photos. Find the upload button at the top right and go to the directory on your computer that contains the photos. Select several photos and upload them. Once they are uploaded to the My Photos section you can open a photo and select it. After selecting the photo use the Crtl-C key sequence to copy the photo to the clipboard and then go the the thread and post where you would like the photo. Once there paste the photo with the Crtl-V key sequence.

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Old 09-24-2013, 02:53 PM   #7
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Up Date End of Day 2

Well yesterday sure went smooth This morning when I got back from Lowes with my new 3/4 floor (That they cut 26" X 36" for me) I set it into place on my well made glued and screwed frame I immediately saw it was not level. I got the level, tape, and square back out and found that I had used two short legs (cripple studs) on the front part of the frame. So with the help of a pry bar I took the whole frame back out and when I got to my work bench the first thing I saw was the two correct cripple studs right on the table. The two that I used were some end scrap that would have worked great if they were 3/8" longer. Anyway after beating myself up over using the studs I completely remade the frame. It was easier than trying to pull apart gorilla glued and screwed joints.

After getting it back in place insuring it was level with the leveled coach I reused my "L" brackets and more screws and gorilla glue it is now secured to the floor again. While I had it all opened I took the heater cover off and cleaned it up real good and tape all the seams with HVAC tape. I cut a small grove for my ice maker line and was able to swivel the joints. It now come up with the valve above the floor and will be secured once the new 197 is in.

I have been trying to figure a way to support the top of the unit to prevent tilting forward in the event of a very sudden turn or accident. I came up with the idea to run a stud from the floor to the top of the cabinet on each side close to where the top rear will be when the unit is installed. I will then run a section of 2X4 across the top and attach to the studs leaving me about 1/4" clearance above the unit. I may be able to force some cedar wedges between the unit and 2X4 to really tighten it up if needed after it is all bolted in.

I also decided not to insulate the sides of the cabinet after reading the Samsung book. They recommend a 2 inch gap on each side and that is about what I have. Besides they are inside wall anyway. I will still used the form board for the back wall. I have plenty of room there.

Well that is the news for today.

Bob, thanks for the info on uploading the pics, now when Julie gets home I will get her to down the camera and help me with your instructions.

George
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Old 09-24-2013, 06:59 PM   #8
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George, just a thought for how to stabilize the top of your fridge. I was not installing a Samsung, but installed my flat-topped fridge with approximately 1/4" between its top and the bottom of the wood above it. I used a piece of aluminum angle over the fridge, with one leg of the angle vertical in front of the wood, and the other leg extending over the top of the fridge toward its rear. I used the double-sided automotive trim tape between the angle and the top of the fridge, then fastened the vertical leg to the wood overhead. The tape has tremendous holding power, and makes the final fastening very easy to align.

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Old 09-25-2013, 03:57 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmyEOD View Post
Up Date End of Day 2

Well yesterday sure went smooth This morning when I got back from Lowes with my new 3/4 floor (That they cut 26" X 36" for me) I set it into place on my well made glued and screwed frame I immediately saw it was not level. I got the level, tape, and square back out and found that I had used two short legs (cripple studs) on the front part of the frame. So with the help of a pry bar I took the whole frame back out and when I got to my work bench the first thing I saw was the two correct cripple studs right on the table. The two that I used were some end scrap that would have worked great if they were 3/8" longer. Anyway after beating myself up over using the studs I completely remade the frame. It was easier than trying to pull apart gorilla glued and screwed joints.

After getting it back in place insuring it was level with the leveled coach I reused my "L" brackets and more screws and gorilla glue it is now secured to the floor again. While I had it all opened I took the heater cover off and cleaned it up real good and tape all the seams with HVAC tape. I cut a small grove for my ice maker line and was able to swivel the joints. It now come up with the valve above the floor and will be secured once the new 197 is in.

I have been trying to figure a way to support the top of the unit to prevent tilting forward in the event of a very sudden turn or accident. I came up with the idea to run a stud from the floor to the top of the cabinet on each side close to where the top rear will be when the unit is installed. I will then run a section of 2X4 across the top and attach to the studs leaving me about 1/4" clearance above the unit. I may be able to force some cedar wedges between the unit and 2X4 to really tighten it up if needed after it is all bolted in.

I also decided not to insulate the sides of the cabinet after reading the Samsung book. They recommend a 2 inch gap on each side and that is about what I have. Besides they are inside wall anyway. I will still used the form board for the back wall. I have plenty of room there.

Well that is the news for today.

Bob, thanks for the info on uploading the pics, now when Julie gets home I will get her to down the camera and help me with your instructions.

George
George,

When you take the doors off of the Samsung you will notice the top hinge brackets have a plastic spacer about 1/8 inch thick between the top of the frig and the hinge. You can remove that spacer and replace it with an aluminum bracket of your making to use as a way to fasten the frig at the top. I have not done that but suggested it to Rick P. and he did use the method. He has the advantage of having an overhead cabinet above his Samsung and no furnace below.

Bob
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Old 09-25-2013, 12:54 PM   #10
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I followed Bob Nodines post and pictures very carefully in my install and it was a great help. My experience is posted at http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/yet-...nt-170536.html with only a few pictures

The brackets that Bob is referring to are here:


Installed they look like this
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Old 09-25-2013, 12:55 PM   #11
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ArmyEOD, Good luck with the install; you've progressed much further that I by Day2 .

Let me know if you need more info.
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Old 09-28-2013, 06:59 PM   #12
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Latest Up-Date:

I did not do anything on the 197 project Thursday or Friday. I had to make some repairs to our back deck (anyway that's another story)

This morning I removed the doors and interior items from the 197. My neighbor came over with his son and we had the co-pilot seat removed, hand rail off, and door tied back in about 20 mins. I ended up fabricating a high rise dolly like Nodine did and we had the 197 in the coach on the dolly by 8:30.

Well after some coffee and small talk it was down to me and Julie to finish the job. We rolled the unit right to the opening and it rolled right in. I saw right away I needed "Stops" top and bottom. So we pulled it back out and rolled it away on the dolly. I cut 2Ea 18" sections of 2 x 4 and using gorilla glue and screws I attached them to the opening side walls 24.5 inches measured from the outside styles and then added a 2 x 4 between them to insure nothing would move. Then I cut two small 2 x 4 blocks and installed the in the lower corners. By doing this the 197 with out doors is flush with the cabinet styles around it. Ok it was now time to test fit again. We reinserted the 197 and it was almost perfect. I new I would have to add a couple of shims to level everything up.

While I had Julie to help me we decided to put the doors and top control panel all back on. Now for another story. With the unit on the dolly or in the opening I only had about 3 inches to work. So after getting the doors on I saw there was no way to get my hands between the top of the unit and the ceiling to put all the electrical plugs and then screw the cover back in place. I said we will just wait until someone can help me set the 197 on the floor so I can do the work. Well my wife Julie came up with the idea of the day she said just roll the 197 and dolly under the roof vent hole in the living room and you should have plenty of room to make the connections. Well as usual she was right. After making the connections I just had to roll it a little to get the top cap screws back in place.

We then rolled it back to the opening and slid it back into the hole. I took some measurement for my shims and will cut them in the morning. I also like the "brackets pictured above. I am just going to mount them under the bolts heads instead of taking the plastic spacers out. Thanks for the pics of the brackets rpasetto, and thinks for the design Bob. I am picking up the aluminum angle at Lowes in the morning.

FYI, I plugged it in at 5:30 this afternoon I checked on it at 8:00 and the frig was at 38 (started at 80) freezer was down to 25 and still going. I have the board set for 38 and 02. So for so good.

My son has promised he will help me with the pic posting on Sunday. Julie and I have been able to down load what I have taken so for, Bob thanks again for the instructions you provided he should be able to knock them right out.

Looks like I will need to take it back out, add the mounting brackets, put it back in, shim to 100% level side to side and front to rear, secure the rear bottom, secure the top brackets, and that should do it. I hope to be completed by Sunday afternoon.

George
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Old 09-29-2013, 04:29 AM   #13
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Looking good George and Julie. Now that it is about time to start using the Samsung I will pass along a tip I got from Dr4flim (Richard S.) who posts frequently on this site and Yahoo.

Here is the deal. When you turn on the ice maker the freezer goes into a hard freeze cycle but the lower temp does not show up in the temperature display. I think the temp display usually shows the set point and not the actual temp. Richard discovered this because he uses wireless temp monitors in his Samsung. I had noticed that sometimes the ice cream would be as hard as a brick and almost impossible to get a scoop out of. I did not correlate it to the ice maker until Richard discovered the lower temp that the freeze dives to when the ice maker is running. What we do now is turn the ice maker on until we get all the ice we want and then turn it off. Sure makes scooping the ice cream a lot easier.

Don't forget to pick up some of the spring loaded curtain rods to keep things from falling out when you open the door after travel.

See you in March,

Bob
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Old 09-29-2013, 05:07 AM   #14
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I installed a smaller than Samsung unit a year ago. Rather than use brackets in the front, I drilled 2 holes thru the metal base (rear) on the reefer and bolted it to the floor. I drilled thru what are small "pods" or "feet" that the reefer normally rests on. In my case I can reach the bolts from the outside vent opening and I could reach the nuts thru the heater vent opening below the reefer. It can't rock forward and the upper outer wood trim prevents rocking backward. See 2 red lines/arrows in lower corners of picture.
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