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Old 04-25-2017, 12:23 PM   #1
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Replacing the drain pump on a 2100 Splendide

Replacement of the Splendide 2100 drain pump and replacement of both the 20 amp receptacle in the closet (there had been a short and the outlet was burned on one side with the plastic casing showing shrinkage as well) as well as the 15 amp plug on the end of the power cord of the Splendide.

I decided to replace the drain pump on our 12 year old Splendide after I had spoken with the technical support person at Westland Sales in Clackamas, Oregon (the NA distributor for Splendide parts and machines.) We had problem solved this through 2 separate phone calls and numerous trips back and forth from the RV to the phone landline. Our symptoms were this: the machine would fill with water, but it would not spin nor drain any water from the machine. The drying cycles would all work fine. Defective pump, from the observations. I had cleaned out the bottom circular black receptacle where coins are often located and then sucked out all of the water with a wet/dry vacuum from this area twice. I managed to get the pump working again by agitating the little bluish colored impeller, but it was not reliable and would stop in the middle of a spin cycle.

I ordered and received the drain pump from them within 2 days and the cost worked out to $200.00 CDN (for a $142.00 US part).

I also had to decide how to remove this washer dryer as I was working alone and did not have anyone to help me extricate this 160 lb + beast from a tiny raised closet 16” off the ground. For those that remember, I also replaced all 4 slide out toppers using a couple of ladders and a drywall lift 2 years ago by myself....pictures were attached to this project.

So I built a 2 x 4 platform and secured it with wood screws to a large furniture dolly I had around the house. I measured carefully to ensure that the height of the platform would match the height of the raised closet the Splendide sat on.

It didn’t take long to remove the washer/dryer, but it was close call moving it through the bathroom into the galley with the Splendide measuring 23.5 inches wide and the hallway passage into the kitchen measuring a scant 24 inches.

Once I brought it into the living room, with the slides out, I easily flipped it onto its left side (as the unit faces you) onto the same height couch that I had in the same room. This was convenient to say the least. This is where I found out that, during installation at the Monaco Factory, or during shipping of the unit, the washer dryer had been dropped several times and was bent in several locations which would explain why the front toe kick never fit properly and the metal bottom pan was put in improperly also, which was also bent.
I then removed the improperly installed metal bottom pan which is held on with 4 screws, and then easily undid the 3 pipes leading into the pump, removed the 2 wires and then unscrewed the 2 screws in the front of the machine holding the pump in place. I took pictures to make sure which hose went to which opening, although each is a different size, so it wasn’t that important to tell which one went where.

Once I removed the pump, I then inserted the new one. Perfect fit. I then decided to remove the plug end of the power cord as it too was burned due to a short (that must have occurred before we bought the MH, as we have not experienced anything that we noticed to be a shorting of that outlet at any time). This was after I had called Westland Sales who quoted me a price of $49.00 US for a new power cord + shipping + 36% exchange...a no brainer here.

I also changed out the RV plastic 20 amp receptacle (see pics) because it had suffered the worst of the shorting. As an aside, I have always had electrical gremlins in this coach, and I suspect some of them may have been caused by this incident, whenever it had happened. I installed a heavy duty residential 20 amp single outlet that can be installed the same way the old one was: by turning two screws that engage a locking tab on the inside securing it to the inside wall of the cavity. I had to enlarge the original outlet hole by about ¼ inch on each side and I only had enough room for the depth of the outlet as it was just deep enough to install it.

I figured I might as well replace the 4” ventilation ducting as well, but was a bit shocked to see that the outside end of the duct was not secured to anything on the wall. As this is a very hard place to attach once the washer dryer is installed, I could see the problem. However, Monaco had built into the closet a removable panel on the second shelf that could access the water shut offs, power cord end and the ducting. So, I installed a 5” piece of sheet metal ducting that would just fit inside the 5” hole drilled into the closet wall and then insert the flexible ducting inside of this piece of metal. It is important not to use any more flexible ducting than necessary and to make the line as straight as possible while flexing it out as completely as possible. With the removable panel, this was easily done. While it is still not held on with clamps at the wall end of the ducting, it is a better fit and should air out more exhaust from the dryer than the old method did.

Once everything was hooked up, I ran the Splendide through a short cycle and tested for leaks. None.

I also noticed that some of the electrical problems I had been having have been solved, so, hopefully, this was the cause of them. I have had them ever since we owned the coach and since the previous owners never used anything in the coach (bathroom, sinks, seats, etc...) I think that, from the way all of the cords and hoses were bent and tangled around each other behind the washer dryer combo, it must have come this way from the factory. I was fortunate that we have not had any fires from that burnt out receptacle and plug end.

So there you have it. I am sure a lot of you have done this without this much write up, but for those who haven’t and need a bit of urging, it is not that hard. Just some good thinking about it in advance and using leverage to avoid injury to yourself. I am not a very strong person, so I have to carefully think things out well in advance to have a mechanical device acting as my muscle (e.g. drywall lift for the SO awnings, furniture dolly for the washer/dryer).

Something else. When I removed the old pump, I decided to take it apart and find out why it was deemed to be faulty. I have worked on numerous fountain pumps in my life and this one seemed similar: an electric motor, with a small plastic impeller attached to a magnetic rod.

Once I removed the impeller and rod, I found the answer. About 2 teaspoons worth of extra fine silt had managed to work its way inside this chamber. Once I cleaned it out, the pump worked like new. I now have a good spare drain pump on hand.

One last thing. As fine particles of silt can and will prevent the drain impeller from spinning, my DW and I have decided not to wash anything really dirty or soiled with sand inside this Splendide. It works great for drying your hand and bath towels and for cleaning lingerie and socks but, from now on, no more floor towels that I use at the entrance of the coach to wipe your feet off, or dog towels, will be going into this washer dryer: it is too hard to drag out the machine, take apart the pump and clean it out every time. While the little black plastic removable “filter” cup is meant to catch coins and other large objects like lint, smaller particles can get by it and lodge themselves into the small chamber behind the impeller. Lesson learned the hard way!
Onto the next project for this MH: fixing an Ignition Lockout code on the 8531 Atwood Furnace (More Headaches). RVing is not for the faint of heart. I am open to any and all suggestions.

Next subject that I have just completed: making the cheapest fix to have good quality audio/music heard throughout the whole coach speaker system using the OEM existing RCA amplifier WITHOUT changing out the unreliable and broken Magnadyne OEM.

Cheers
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Old 04-25-2017, 12:43 PM   #2
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Kudos, and more Kudos is all I can say, Chef Guy! An awesome job on fixing your W/D, and especially for such a great rundown of what you did.

Again...
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Old 04-25-2017, 01:24 PM   #3
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Thanks for the write up on your washing machine. Having the same problem with ours and will tackle the repair later this summer.
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Old 04-25-2017, 02:25 PM   #4
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You're welcome

Rusty Tools and Randy,

You're welcome...I always like to see pictures, or a video, when trying to figure these things out, so the pics were as much for me as they were for others out there. Glad that I could help out....now, on to the furnace
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Old 04-25-2017, 02:58 PM   #5
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Furnace?
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Old 04-25-2017, 03:25 PM   #6
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Rusty,

Yes, furnace. My rear Atwood 8531 is displaying an "Ignition Lockout" sequence on the circuit board red light. I have read the repair manuals, but I am not that familiar with this furnace.

Also, it seems like quite a tight area to work in. I have seen youtube videos by RV techs when the furnace is on a bench, but it seems one needs to know what one is doing before attempting this thing....maybe a bit too cautious, but I am willing to learn working from the outside of the RV only on this Atwood.
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Old 04-25-2017, 06:51 PM   #7
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Chef Guy,
Thank you soo much for this write up, i am having the same problem with our washer and dryer. The one good thing about ours, is that its still under warranty. It was replaced not too long ago by the PO and they bought a 5 year extended warranty. It will be nice to get it going again!
Thanks again!!
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Old 04-26-2017, 01:47 PM   #8
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I'm going to be watching over your shoulder when you start on that furnace, Chef Guy. I see a wing-nut on the board, but willing to bet there's more fasteners buried inside, and I bet you have to remove the whole thing to get to the innards.

Both of my 8520/8531 furnaces have very small valve-diaphragm leaks (can just barely smell propane if you stick your nose in the vent on a calm day) - so I just capped them off for the time-being so I can use the water heater and stove.

Like yours, everything is a very tight fit and I can't figure-out how to remove the furnace without major work. I recently asked here on the forum but got a terse 'read the manual' response, even after saying the manual didn't address the removal.

Have you checked the flame sensor electrode spacing? I had a similar problem with my water heater and found it was very sensitive to the electrode configuration.

Good luck!
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Old 10-19-2017, 11:28 AM   #9
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Thanks Chef Guy. Great write up. I ordered my pump today. I had already figured out the table/dolly to slide the unit out on before reading your post but was really glad to confirm that was best way to get it out. Did you replace your hoses while out? the parts guy said the hoses should be fine even at 10 years. I will inspect them once the unit is out. How did the furnace fix go? I have a water heater issue that is next on my list.
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Old 10-19-2017, 11:33 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gurleymon View Post
Thanks Chef Guy. Great write up. I ordered my pump today. I had already figured out the table/dolly to slide the unit out on before reading your post but was really glad to confirm that was best way to get it out. Did you replace your hoses while out? the parts guy said the hoses should be fine even at 10 years. I will inspect them once the unit is out. How did the furnace fix go? I have a water heater issue that is next on my list.
Gurleymon (interesting name, what does it mean?)

My hoses were fine when I examined them. I think a lot depends on how much the unit is used. Check the electrical box while you are in there, as well as the dryer hose that vents outside. Both of mine were not installed correctly and led to improper venting as well as electrical gremlins throughout the whole coach.
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Old 10-19-2017, 12:24 PM   #11
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I just completed this task recently myself. My first thought was, How in the heck am I going to get this thing out to work on it.

Working alone, I decided to walk it out onto a platform using the bed frame and do the pump replacement right there. I raised the mattress and propped it up to give access to the bed platform. Then I used some 1 X 12 boards and 2 X 4 to build a ramp. Walked it out onto my ramp, turned it on its side, replaced the pump and walked it back in place.
Easy as falling off a log but not half as dangerous.

P/S, I did a bunch of searching and ended up buying the pump from Camping World for $129 and free shipping. Was drop shipped directly from Westland Supply. Who says C/W is overpriced.
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