Resealing 2003 Dynasty roof

[DMM2]

We have our 40 foot 2003 dynasty at the repair shop for a number of items (fix dash air controller, aquahot service, paint repair around upper areas near curve of roof where clear coat is gone, and various areas of clear coat peeling at a cost of approx $3000+, and roof inspection.
We have not had any leak problems, but have owned for 2 years and wanted it checked out (this is our first coach). They called my DH And said there are a number of areas that need to be resealed, and gave an estimate of $1000. They get $120/hr labor there.
SOOOOOO. Is this reasonable? What questions should I/WE be asking them to make sure it will be done right.

I have done some searching of forum and seen talk of eternabond, etc. My husband still works full time, and I am not climbing up there , so if we decide to do it ourselves, how time consuming? The coach will need to sit for a couple of months to let paint cure, and paint repair goes right up to roof line, so will need to wait till after Dec to do ourselves, and we are in GA, and have a trip planned end of Feb, so weather will be consideration when we can do it.
Basically looking for any and all advice before we dish out another grand.

[rmcb]

I have an acquaintance who is an RV tech in Junction City OR. If I am not mistaken, he gets a flat rate of 1.5hr to strip and reseal the roof of an average size Class A MH.

I have done my own a couple times (two different coaches). It took more than 1.5hr but it definitely is not hard. I was shown how to use a propane torch to heat up a putty knife to strip the old sealant. (Others have used a heat gun - perhaps a little safer). It comes off real easily with a heated putty knife. Then, how to use Acrysol to clean up the stripped area, followed by Dicor self leveling sealant applied in a weaving pattern over the edges of areas to be sealed.

This job can be messy but well within the capabilities of the average handyman (handywoman). You can also use 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover for clean up. Both are available at auto paint supply stores. I have even used Lacquer thinner and it seems to work just as well. Dicor is available at Camping World or most RV/Trailer parts stores.

On my coach, the front and rear cap seams and the skylight flange are covered with tar tape (like Eternabond tape but with tar as an adhesive). The edges are then sealed with Dichor self leveling sealant. I redid my skylight and used Eternabond (available at Camping World, Trailer supplies, or Amazon (cheaper here).

It turned out nicer than the original job. I plan to redo the front and rear cap seams in a few weeks using the same supplies.

If you are thinking at all about doing this yourself, I would like to encourage you. You will save a boatload of money while learning a lot about how your coach is sealed up in the process.

Good luck

Roy

[Doggy Daddy]

There are two types of rubber roof coatings; Water base and Non-water base. Water base is less expensive and in most cases requires a primer and two coats of sealant.
EPDM Coating is top quality and not water base. I recommend it if you plan on keeping your RV. I used it on my RV. No more worries or need for calking of seams, vents and roof accessories. It is DIY, and self leveling. No primer and only one coat required. Less manual labor. EPDM Coatings - Liquid EPDM Rubber Roof Coatings For Roof Leaks

[Papa_Jim]

The OP has a fiberglass roof.

There will be a few items on the roof that will need the caulking replaced or simply more caulking added. It's not high tech work.

Jim

[DMM2]

Originally Posted by rmcb

I have an acquaintance who is an RV tech in Junction City OR. If I am not mistaken, he gets a flat rate of 1.5hr to strip and reseal the roof of an average size Class A MH.

I have done my own a couple times (two different coaches). It took more than 1.5hr but it definitely is not hard. I was shown how to use a propane torch to heat up a putty knife to strip the old sealant. (Others have used a heat gun - perhaps a little safer). It comes off real easily with a heated putty knife. Then, how to use Acrysol to clean up the stripped area, followed by Dicor self leveling sealant applied in a weaving pattern over the edges of areas to be sealed.

This job can be messy but well within the capabilities of the average handyman (handywoman). You can also use 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover for clean up. Both are available at auto paint supply stores. I have even used Lacquer thinner and it seems to work just as well. Dicor is available at Camping World or most RV/Trailer parts stores.

On my coach, the front and rear cap seams and the skylight flange are covered with tar tape (like Eternabond tape but with tar as an adhesive). The edges are then sealed with Dichor self leveling sealant. I redid my skylight and used Eternabond (available at Camping World, Trailer supplies, or Amazon (cheaper here).

It turned out nicer than the original job. I plan to redo the front and rear cap seams in a few weeks using the same supplies.

If you are thinking at all about doing this yourself, I would like to encourage you. You will save a boatload of money while learning a lot about how your coach is sealed up in the process.

Good luck

Roy

Thanks Roy for the quick response and EXCELLENT information. We are leaning toward waiting till we get coach back and examining roof and probably attempting ourselves, especially with the help of your info. I am all about trying to do the tasks ourselves if they are more tedium than technical. This place wanted 800+ to remove the badly cracked 3M shield on the front of the coach. Well, I got out my hair dryer and plastic scrappers and got that sucker off. No fun in GA 90+ heat, but I did it, and never want to again . But I digress. Sound like resealing the roof if doable. Guess I might just have to get up the nerve to climb up there. Thanks again for info!!!
Debbie

[DMM2]

Originally Posted by Papa_Jim

The OP has a fiberglass roof.

There will be a few items on the roof that will need the caulking replaced or simply more caulking added. It's not high tech work.

Jim

Thanks for answering. I thought it was fiberglass, and double checked before posting (so many variables on these moving homes ). Do you know if caulking will cure in cold weather? Won't be able to do much up there till the paint "cures" and then we are into winter, and leave for sunny California in late Feb.
Debbie

[DMM2]

Found this video on you tube, seems to be pretty detailed. Any other thoughts from those that have done this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a_aEmUCa5Hw

Decision time with RV repair man is about 4PM EST.

Debbie

[steined]

If you are physically able to get on the roof and be on your hands an knees, it's a hot messy job, but easy.

I ruined a pair of sneakers pulling them through the dicor, but would do it again without hesitation. It was a hot job in the middle of the summer, so late fall / early spring seems like the right time to do it.

I think you can do this if you are physically able.

[Captjake1]

I just had mine done. Fiberglass roof. Complete tear out of of sealer, mask off and re-apply polyurethane (Sikaflex) to the roof. $800 plus materials so probably about $1000. Amazing looking work when they were done.

I actually had the entire coach done at the same time. Roof, sidewalls, windows, any seam or penetration; including slides. Total was $2000.

[walt2137]

Deb estersbond is not needed on your roof it was used on the early Diplomats with aluminum roofs at the seam from the roof to the cap. There are a lot of different sealants that can be used you just need to clean the roof and what I do is cut out any cracks and refill with flow seal also mask the area with painters tape or use pro flex and don't need tape. I generly clean the area I am patching with carb cleaner but be careful. Should be less than 2 hrs and about anyone should be able to do the job, I am 78 and just got through with our roof, side wall and main awning and we did have a leak.

[96 Wideglide]

Originally Posted by DMM2

Thanks for answering. I thought it was fiberglass, and double checked before posting (so many variables on these moving homes ). Do you know if caulking will cure in cold weather? Won't be able to do much up there till the paint "cures" and then we are into winter, and leave for sunny California in late Feb.
Debbie

It will cure, but does'nt flow, self level, as well in the cold.
Keep the tubes at room temp till your ready to apply.

[rmcb]

Debbie,

I would like to make a few comments on the video.

I wouldn't think you would need to put the roof coating on unless your fiberglass roof is badly checked/cracked. Lots of folks use Mop-n-glow or Zep floor finish after thoroughly cleaning all the dirt and mildew off the roof. I haven't done mine yet but the ones I have seen done this way look great. I personally would not put a coating on my fiberglass roof unless it was absolutely necessary. I am sure that once you do that, there is no going back.

The video briefly shows the application of Dichor self leveling sealant for touch up. Considering the ease of removing the old sealant with a hot putty knife, I personally would not do a reseal without removing the old stuff. For that task, I have found that having a plastic grocery bag handy for collecting the peeled off sealant helps keep the mess in check.

After scraping the old finish, I have used a scotchbrite pad with solvent to get down to the fiberglass, wiping up with paper towels. Then, I cut the tube on the Dichor so it has a big hole, and using either a "looping" or "Zig-Zag" motion, apply the Dichor in a wide band so it covers the overlap of the seam by at least 1". It will at first look pretty bumpy, but within a few minutes will flow down to a nice smooth bead. You can even go back and touch up areas and it will flow down nicely. Try to concentrate on keeping a straight edge and it will flow out very nicely. No need to use masking tape. It would only make a mess as you try to pull it off.

As mentioned by others, this is really not hard to do. For most areas on the roof, you can sit down while you are doing it. I use either a piece of cardboard or rubber mat to sit or kneel on. You could also use a piece of old carpet.

I wish you the best on this. I am sure you will smile widely when you realize how much you have saved.

Roy

[crah]

OP, your fiberglass roof will all be seamless one piece on your Dynasty. Some of the monaco models lower in the food chain also had seams that ran all the way across the coach at the front and rear caps. You should be using Dicor and not any type of caulking. You will likely have just the skylight 3-4 fantastic vents, a couple plumbing vents, and then antennae and air horns to seal. If you are in need of getting it done right away, I would just clean the area really well and apply the decor over the existing. If you have more time, remove the old and put on the new. I have a 2003 coach and I've only applied new over the existing. One of these days I will probably strip and redo.

[Papa_Jim]

Dicor self-leveling caulk.

Jim