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Old 04-24-2017, 07:10 AM   #1
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Ride Height Valve Adjust

I use a piece of 3/8 plywood cut to 11" to check the rear ride height and, while its probably in tolerance, it's slightly short. I couldn't slide the piece of plywood in--it missed by just a small amount so I decided to adjust it.

Adjusting the ride height is pretty straight forward and the last time I did it, it was a piece of cake. This time however, I couldn't increase the ride height. I loosened the nut on the eccentric adjustment (there is plenty of adjustment left on the eccentric), however I couldn't raise the arm because the connecting rod limited the travel of the arm. Am I missing something?
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Old 04-24-2017, 01:24 PM   #2
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Good afternoon Dennis; I had a small problem with what you are talking about on the curb side, rear ride height valve, on my 2001 Windsor. I think your valves and mine are the same. You say you have plenty of adjustment in the eccentric. When you loosen the nut that locks the valve to the arm, you should be able to move the valve in the slot either up or down to deflate the air bags or introduce air into the bags. If for some reason, the valve is not centered in the eccentric slot, like mine was, it looked like I had no adjustment to make on the valve. Can you insert the small 1/8" drill bit in the valve centering alignment holes in the valve body and the valve? I had to run the height up and down a couple of times to get the valve in the middle of the eccentric slot so I could make some adjustment. After getting the height set at the proper measurement, I made sure the valve was in the center by inserting the drill bit through both alignment holes. Does this make any sense to you for what you are experiencing? I am just trying to get my mind under you coach to see what you are seeing. Hope this helps. By the way, nice job on the exhaust with great pictures. Also remember that when you loosen the adjustment nut that locks the valve to the arm, the arm that is connected to the rod down to the axle does not move. You are moving the valve stud the is connected to the valve in the slot of the arm.
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Old 04-24-2017, 02:22 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8.3Oilbuner View Post
Good afternoon Dennis; I had a small problem with what you are talking about on the curb side, rear ride height valve, on my 2001 Windsor. I think your valves and mine are the same. You say you have plenty of adjustment in the eccentric. When you loosen the nut that locks the valve to the arm, you should be able to move the valve in the slot either up or down to deflate the air bags or introduce air into the bags. If for some reason, the valve is not centered in the eccentric slot, like mine was, it looked like I had no adjustment to make on the valve. Can you insert the small 1/8" drill bit in the valve centering alignment holes in the valve body and the valve? I had to run the height up and down a couple of times to get the valve in the middle of the eccentric slot so I could make some adjustment. After getting the height set at the proper measurement, I made sure the valve was in the center by inserting the drill bit through both alignment holes. Does this make any sense to you for what you are experiencing? I am just trying to get my mind under you coach to see what you are seeing. Hope this helps. By the way, nice job on the exhaust with great pictures. Also remember that when you loosen the adjustment nut that locks the valve to the arm, the arm that is connected to the rod down to the axle does not move. You are moving the valve stud the is connected to the valve in the slot of the arm.
I have plenty of room in eccentric slot. It looks pretty much like this now with the adjustment centered in the middle of the slot.




The problem is when I try to move the arm up, to put more air in the bag, the rod keeps the arm from moving up. I can stick the drill bit into the valve and the rear of the arm in the condition its in now. I'm not sure how you can move the arm up or down, when the rod connected to the end of the arm is also connected to the H-Frame and axle.

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Old 04-24-2017, 02:23 PM   #4
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After re-reading your post I think I know what I am doing wrong. In my top pic, I'm not supposed to be moving the bright metal colored arm, but the white plastic valve behind the arm?
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Old 04-24-2017, 03:04 PM   #5
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Dennis it's a good time to replace those old rubber rod ends while doing the valve. About $5 at NAPA
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Old 04-24-2017, 05:59 PM   #6
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Hi Dennis; Just got in after mowing the lawn before it rains again. I see in your post that you got what was happening. You are correct. The arm mostly stays stationary while you move the valve up and down in the slot in the arm. Don't you hate when that happens. When I was under the coach adjusting the ride height, I treated all those rubber link on the rod with 303 Protectant. Mine all looked good. As Twomed stated, I need to pick some extra rubber links at my local NAPA Store. Hope everything turned out OK.
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Old 04-24-2017, 06:45 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8.3Oilbuner View Post
Hi Dennis; Just got in after mowing the lawn before it rains again. I see in your post that you got what was happening. You are correct. The arm mostly stays stationary while you move the valve up and down in the slot in the arm. Don't you hate when that happens. When I was under the coach adjusting the ride height, I treated all those rubber link on the rod with 303 Protectant. Mine all looked good. As Twomed stated, I need to pick some extra rubber links at my local NAPA Store. Hope everything turned out OK.
Monday's my lawn mowing day too. I'll pick up the rubber links and replace them while i'm under the coach adjusting the ride height.
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Old 04-28-2017, 11:57 PM   #8
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Dennis and oil burner can you please post pictures for to get a better understanding of the rubber ends. I'm assuming you are talking about the boots on the rod ends.
There is a member who was asking about the same thing in adjusting. This will be a good thread for him to read. Thx guys.
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Old 04-29-2017, 07:50 AM   #9
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Dennis and oil burner can you please post pictures for to get a better understanding of the rubber ends. I'm assuming you are talking about the boots on the rod ends.
There is a member who was asking about the same thing in adjusting. This will be a good thread for him to read. Thx guys.
If you look at the picture of the valve above, you see a long, vertical rod to the right off the valve. There is a rubber, banjo shaped boot at the top of the rod that connects the rod to the lever on the valve. That's what we've been talking about replacing. There is another at the other end that connects that end off the rod to the axle.
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Old 04-29-2017, 07:52 AM   #10
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I adjusted the ride height and yesterday while I was under the coach. It's much easier when you do it the right way!
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Old 04-29-2017, 12:03 PM   #11
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Good morning Dennis; Glad the adjustment went as planned. As to 10Boomer's question, if you go to www.anythingtruck.com, they have pictures of ride height valves and the rubber links that Dennis and I are talking about. Hope it is a good web address as I did not check it out before posting. I have it written down in a log of address I keep for just such an occasion. Hope you can find the info you are looking for their. Dennis is has better tech. knowledge for posting pictures than I do. I need to learn. Also I show www.rvchassisparts.com have the valves and links. Show at last address Hadley Leveling Valve Rubber End Link #H14408 $1.63 each. This is old info so I have not checked it lately. Good luck.
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Old 05-09-2017, 07:33 AM   #12
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I just went under the coach to adjust the valves. A little high on one side and low on the other. My problem is the valve appears to be stuck. I can move the plastic part but it just goes back to the original position and does not let air in or out. I also noticed they are positioned all the way to the top. Do I need new valves?

After rereading your post, when you loosen the lock nut, move the valve and tighten the lock nut to hold it in the new position.
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Old 05-09-2017, 12:34 PM   #13
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Quote:
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I just went under the coach to adjust the valves. A little high on one side and low on the other. My problem is the valve appears to be stuck. I can move the plastic part but it just goes back to the original position and does not let air in or out. I also noticed they are positioned all the way to the top. Do I need new valves?
Possibly, a small amount of movement puts air into, or lets air out of my suspension. Make sure the coach air pressure is about 120-125 PSI.
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Old 05-09-2017, 03:09 PM   #14
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Thanks Dennis, I did hear a very small amount of air on the one side. What I did was move the valve slightly in the direction I wanted and tightened it. Then when I dump air and refilled it made small movements is the direction I wanted. Have it leveled now. Thanks again.
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