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Old 11-12-2014, 04:28 PM   #1
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Rope lights issue.

Hello:

RE: 07 Executive

A section (I think) of rope lights in the living room ceiling have gone out. Before I start ripping things apart, I thought I would seek some advise from you folks. Are they 12 volt powered or 110 (fuses or ckt breakers)? Are they one long string or parts connected end to end? My technical information is silent on rope lights. Anyone have any advise where to start?

Thanks,

Bill
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Old 11-12-2014, 04:43 PM   #2
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The short answer I'm afraid is YES, to both questions.

IF they are factory installed they are most likely 12 volt, IF I installed them (Which I plan on doing soon) they will be 12 volt.

However if a prior owner installed them all bets are off.

And they may be daisy chained (Short strips connected end to end) or not (one long strip) only way to tell is to look for joints,
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Old 11-12-2014, 04:51 PM   #3
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Pull it all out and add LED's. Never half to worry anymore.
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Old 11-12-2014, 04:55 PM   #4
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Hey are factory installed and 12 volt incandescent. I am slowly losing them one one at a time. If you have lost a whole string then time to check either the switch or your domestic 12 volt fuses that are hidden in a closet or cupboard.
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Old 11-12-2014, 05:59 PM   #5
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12 volt all one string on mine...replaced with LED "natural" light.
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Old 11-12-2014, 06:25 PM   #6
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Hi Mike:

When you say, "losing them one at a time" are you taking about losing a string one at a time? It seem about 50% off the loop of the rope in the ceiling are out that my be one of two strings. If so, how would they be powered, hooked in series or individuality?

Bill
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Old 11-12-2014, 06:29 PM   #7
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They are wired individually. I lose one bulb at a time over time
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Old 11-12-2014, 06:33 PM   #8
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Hi Mike:

Are yours factory installed? Mine appear to be a flexible tube with the bulbs inside. It doesn't seem that it would be feasible to change individual bulbs.
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Old 11-12-2014, 06:51 PM   #9
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Yes factory installed in a tube. When enough go out I will replace the whole length with LED rope light.
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Old 11-12-2014, 08:10 PM   #10
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Hi, Bill. Are they switched with your Intellitec switch panel? If so, unless relays are involved, it's definitely 12V, like Mike said. Also, I replaced the rope light string under our bathroom vanity with LED's. (2006 Dynasty) I got the lights through Overtons Marine. They are at Overton’s - Free Shipping | Guaranteed Lowest Prices. However, I had to put some resistance in series with them to keep the LED's from failing due to over voltage. So it cost me two strings before I got it working right. The first string started failing within weeks. Now it's given me about 7 years of perfect service. I got the resistors at Radio Shack. I don't recall the resistance I put in series with them, but I could take the vanity floor up and take a peek to find out, if needed.

The hands down idea is surely LED, nowadays, but do make sure that whatever you purchase is good for considerably more than 12V. Voltages of as much as 15V or more would be a really good idea, as there are times that our battery chargers can get up to a pretty high output and the more basic LED's are not at all tolerant of over voltage.

Also, somewhere in the 3000 K lighting temperature range should give you a fairly good replacement to what you have. The rope lights can be cut to length during installation, so you should be able to get just what you want. And, there are dozens of outlets for LED rope lighting.
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Old 11-12-2014, 09:57 PM   #11
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I am the starter of this thread and want to thank everyone for sharing their views on my issue. When I started removing the rope, an open connection closed and the entire string came on. It will probably happen again in the future, but I am now
ready to provide a permanent fix.

Thanks guys,

Bill
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Old 11-14-2014, 07:19 AM   #12
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I've had some weird problems thru the years with my coach electrical system. Once my ropes didn't work in the LR, another time my ropes in the bedroom would only turn off when the switch was turned to "on" and turn on when switch turned to "off". Just yesterday I was unable to start my coach after sitting hooked to shore power for 2 days, alladin showed volt on chassis batteries at 12.1v and boost button didn't increase it. Tried turning on generator but it would only "click".
What I have found fixes many of my strange electrical problems, is to turn off disconnect switch for chassis and coach batteries for about 20 seconds and all electrical problems cleared up after batteries turned back on. Was told this reboots coach CPU. I was really surprised it fixed the low voltage reading from my chassis batteries but immediately after turning all batteries back on, the reading for the chassis batteries was 13 v and coach and generator started like normal.
So before trying anything else with those ropes, I would just trying the disconnect for both sets of batteries and see what happens.
Good luck,
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Old 11-14-2014, 07:23 AM   #13
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BILLSMAN:

Thanks for sharing this. Very interesting, indeed!

Bill
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Old 11-14-2014, 05:13 PM   #14
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Wouldn't it be easier to power down the CPU box (assuming there is one?)
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