Salesman switch / relay

[John24RLS]

What is the part number on the relay?
Thanks

[Jchemie]

Check with your local NAPA store, most of them can build you a short jumper cable with crimped on copper lug ends for a very cheap price. I have used them (NAPA) many a time to build new cables for my battery box. Looks professional and is safe.

[John Kaehms]

The relay you are showing in your photo is actually called a “Latching Relay”. There is a switch by the entrance door that is pressed once for “ON” and once again for “Off”. The relay controls the power to your house batteries. It should not control functions done by your starting batteries. The problem with jumping this relay happens when you forget to turn off a light switch or other 12 volt accessory and completely drain your house batteries. Salesmen use this switch to turn off the house batteries when they show a coach.

The relays are made by KIB and are a “LR 9806” You can call KIB or order them on line. They cost about $60. Yes, I had to replace the one in my 2007 Monaco Cayman.

Best Wishes for safe travel.
JK

[AirBossdavid]

If it were me and I did not want the salesman switch functionality anymore I would remove the solenoid completely and replace it with a direct cable. This is what I did with my battery boost solenoid when I removed it. Put a manual switch in its place.

If you don't remove it disconnect power to the solenoid (continuing to power it could cause you issues)protect the wiring so it cannot short to ground or vice versa, remove the cable from the left side and it looks like there is enough cable to connect it on the right side with the other cable, then you never have to worry about it again. Put a sticker or something in there detailing what you did in case you ever want to sell it, or undo it.

[Iceclimber]

Originally Posted by YC1

That looks just fine to leave it without any other changes.

It just felt good taking mine out. Like a toothache when it came out, no more hurting and it leaves a nice space.

Hi, could I trouble you to post a picture of how you wired it ? Wild guess did you just connect everything to the "switched" post ?

[YC1]

Originally Posted by Iceclimber

Hi, could I trouble you to post a picture of how you wired it ? Wild guess did you just connect everything to the "switched" post ?

Here's a picture.

[deanrd]

I suppose this is more a matter of choice and how many times you've been afflicted. I originally was under the assumption that this would keep you from starting the coach because it failed. I thought it had something to do with supplying power for starting. If it fails will disconnect switch in battery compartment still work? If this fails does it keep batteries disconnected thus the need to bypass? But it could also fail and drain house batteries. When I used battery compartment disconnect my steps don't operate. Wouldn't that be a way to verify your relay is working?

[YC1]

Originally Posted by deanrd

I suppose this is more a matter of choice and how many times you've been afflicted. I originally was under the assumption that this would keep you from starting the coach because it failed. Not on mine, the salesman switch did not effect the starting of the rv. It did effect the seat controls.

I thought it had something to do with supplying power for starting. If it fails will disconnect switch in battery compartment still work? Disconnect switch in battery compartment is a physical switch and has nothing to do with the Salesman switch/solenoid, so yes the battery compartment switches still work. That is how I used to store mine by turning those off.

If this fails does it keep batteries disconnected thus the need to bypass? Yes. But it could also fail and drain house batteries. Not sure how it could fail and drain the batteries. This is not designed to be a long term storage switch. Just a few days at most before it becomes necessary to shut batteries off physically.

When I used battery compartment disconnect my steps don't operate. This is true so set them in the out position before turning batteries off. Wouldn't that be a way to verify your relay is working? Don't think so.

Hope this helps.

[Iceclimber]

Originally Posted by YC1

Here's a picture.

Thank you ! I did try to just combine the two on the right (house unswitched + the round trip to the 12v board) and a bunch of things like the propane tank didn't work. So, that must all run off that switched stud. I guess you could use a fuse block too, for some form of safety.

[YC1]

No fuse block needed. Just jumper those three locations shown together. The circuit is already protected.

Just to the right is a breaker. Not entirely shown in the picture.

[Iceclimber]

Originally Posted by YC1

No fuse block needed. Just jumper those three locations shown together. The circuit is already protected.

Just to the right is a breaker. Not entirely shown in the picture.

In your picture, I can see the 50 amp breaker/block is missing (there is an outline of where mine is) . I chose to replace it with a new one. Maybe yours is in a different spot.
Regardless, thanks. I am happy that stupid thing is gone.

[YC1]

The large jumper wire on the right connects to a breaker. One that looks like it has a lever on it.

[Iceclimber]

Originally Posted by YC1

The large jumper wire on the right connects to a breaker. One that looks like it has a lever on it.

Interesting mine doesn't have that but anywho all fixed. As Gump says, "one less thing".

[vito.a]

Can you just combine the two cables on the left to bypass and still power the propane gauge?