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Old 04-02-2013, 05:07 PM   #1
"Formerly Diplomat Don"
 
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Samsung Refer Door Lock

I'm stuck at home this week and decided to play around with my new Samsung refer and try to make a door lock. My coach is being painted so the refer is in the garage.

I tried several things, but didn't want to drill into the frame, at least on the two top doors. I also wanted something that was easy for my wife to use while the MH was in motion. I came up with this. It's just a sheet of heavy gauge aluminum bent into a "C" shape, with the back edge of the "C" being only an inch and the front edge is two inches. This is just a prototype wrapped in gorilla tape to protect the front of my refer (Stainless Steel).

I'll either try and find some 3" square pvc tubing (used for fence rails) or use the aluminum and coat it to protect the refer. This just drops onto the top of the doors and stay with friction and weight. The doors can't open when it's on and and is easy to remove.

This is only my first build. The final product will have a thumb piece on the front to help lift it off.

I just thought I would throw this out there. It might not be what some want and it doesn't solve the freezer issue. A "Z" shape design of this may work to hold the freezer closed when the upper doors are closed.

It's UGLY, but remember this was just a first design.





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Old 04-02-2013, 06:19 PM   #2
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Why not just go down to the local ACE hardware store and get a baby lock for about $1.98 its plastic and has self adhesive on both ends that pops off easy to install and easy to get into and your done.
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Old 04-02-2013, 06:35 PM   #3
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Good idea, but you would have to find a place to stick them on and more importantly, I don't want to have to deal with them when I'm parked.
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Old 04-02-2013, 06:40 PM   #4
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Just finished our Samsung install. To keep the doors closed in motion ( idea from this forum) I bought some black nylon straps and plastic buckles like on a life jacket. Put 4 eyes on the wood beside the fidge. Straps on and tight going down the road. DW wants her Diet D.P. she clicks the buckle opens the door and reconnects the snap buckle. When parked for more than an overnight, the straps unhook from the eyes and go into a drawer.
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Old 04-02-2013, 06:57 PM   #5
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Don, Actually the only door that comes open when you drive is the freezer door and because of the weight of the contents it stays open. The upper doors seem to be held well from the magnetic seals, so the simple Velcro straps does the job. We used the straps because I couldn't bring myself to drill holes in the stainless.

PS, We do use tension curtain rods on the inside to keep items from pushing toward the doors.
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Old 04-02-2013, 07:10 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diplomat Don View Post
Good idea, but you would have to find a place to stick them on and more importantly, I don't want to have to deal with them when I'm parked.
They snap on, on both ends so when unsnapped they can just hang down out of the way if you unsnap the correct end, matter a fact they are clear so you don't hardly see them and they are only about 3" in total length.
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Old 04-02-2013, 07:28 PM   #7
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I just purchased some baby stops from Menards, black to match the Samsung and glued them to the front of the refrigerator at top and bottom and they work fine to hold the doors closed....
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:37 PM   #8
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Don
I know you said you didn't want to drill holes, but I installed these latches on my Samsung, 1 between the refer doors and 1 on the side for the freezer. I stuck them on with double stick tape to make sure the location worked, then installed the screws. They work great and are easy to operate, they are what come standard on a lot of the newer Monaco units.

Sugatsune HC-85-S Sliding Door Latch

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Old 04-02-2013, 08:43 PM   #9
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Drifter....Because my coach is so short and the refer is over the wheels, a good driveway dip or large pothole can hit pretty hard. I'm guessing mine will need something to lock it. Looking at the shelves, I figured I would have to install some rods.

I've been studying this thing to see how to get it to fit. It definetly looks like the wheels will have to come off. Luckily, there is a molded in bar on the underside that goes from side to side near the rear that will be what the refer will rest on. The more I look, it appears that I'll have about 3/4" of wiggle room for this thing, more than I thought.

Not only is the heater under the refer, the 1 1/2" drain line and gas tubing for the stove top run over the top of the heater, but close to the back wall. It looks like the refer will just miss them. It looks like a fairly simple install after welding up a new floor, but I dread taking out the Norcold. I lnow the doors have to come off, but did you get yours out with the cooling unit on. I hope to resell the Norcold, but want the buyer to see it running before removal and don't want to have to disassemble to much and cause issues.
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Old 04-03-2013, 05:10 AM   #10
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Don, The best explanation of taking out the old Norcold was done by nodine.

Taking out the Norcold To get the old Norcold out, first take off all the doors and hinges and remove the bins. Remove the black plastic buttons covering the screws on the black trim at the top and bottom. See photos. Remove all the screws. Next go outside and disconnect all the wires, gas line, water line, and unplug the AC cords from the outlets. Be sure to locate and turn off the ice maker water supply before you start. Locate and remove the screws attaching the sheet metal bottom to the wood floor. Construct a dolly that is the correct height to allow the lip at the bottom of the Norcold to slide out on the dolly top surface. From the outside vent push on the back of the Norcold to extend it about an inch into the motorhome. Back inside the coach slide the dolly under the lip and pull the Norcold out onto the dolly. After the Norcold is on the dolly carefully roll it out to where there is enough room to work. Slide the Norcold until the lip drops down on the front edge of the dolly. At this point you will need help. Remove the passenger seat and hand rails. Unscrew the door retaining arm at the top of the door frame and move the door all the way open. Using a bungee cord secure the door to the coach mirror. It is not necessary to remove the cooling unit from the Norcold but does make the job of getting it out the door easier. Because I did not plan to use the Norcold or want to be a party to someone else’s motorhome fire, I took the cooling unit off. The cooling unit weighs about 70 pounds and it takes less effort to move the Norcold in two pieces. https://picasaweb.google.com/1028184...kingOutNorcold __________________
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Old 04-03-2013, 07:35 AM   #11
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Not only is the heater under the refer, the 1 1/2" drain line and gas tubing for the stove top run over the top of the heater, but close to the back wall. It looks like the refer will just miss them. It looks like a fairly simple install after welding up a new floor, but I dread taking out the Norcold. I lnow the doors have to come off, but did you get yours out with the cooling unit on. I hope to resell the Norcold, but want the buyer to see it running before removal and don't want to have to disassemble to much and cause issues.

Here is a photo of mine. I checked the outside temp on the furnace plenum when burning. 145 degrees. Solve that with the aluminum insulation from Lowes. Note I left the love red air intake open.
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Old 04-03-2013, 08:50 AM   #12
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Hey Don, why not use the lock Monaco uses. Check the picture below. This is designed to be screwed on, however you can attach it with 3M trim tape available at auto supply or auto repair shops. You will only need a little.

With the trim tape you will not need any screws, just make sure you position the lock where you want it BEFORE sticking it. You can use a plastic putty knife to get the lock off by working it in behind the lock to get the tape loose.

Get the lock here:

Homeclick

245 Belmont Dr

Somerset, NJ 08873

888-837 5313

http://www.homeclick.com/
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Old 04-03-2013, 01:55 PM   #13
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Wow you don't have much room. On mine I had a drawer under the norhot and removed it and built a wood brace underneath and plywood top and used the front of the drawer cut down to cover the hole up. Make sure you have enough room around the sides and the back after install of the Samsun. Also plug and insulate the out side opening on the side and top. I used lag screws and washers at the back down through the samsung frame into the plywood false floor and some angle iron and lag screws in the front to keep it from rolling out. I also put a switch above the samsung to switch from invertor to shorepower with a light to show it had power of course I had to run the power that once went to the norhot to the sides of the switch and one set of wires back to the plug in the rear for the samsung. As far as the Norcold just take it apart and junk it as you will be doing someone a favor by not selling it to them and you will save money taking it apart by not killing your back.
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Old 04-03-2013, 02:14 PM   #14
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I made a frame that fits on the freezer drawer and prevents it from opening when the refer doors are closed. I then simply wrap a short length of velcro strap around the door handles and the whole thing stays closed. When we stop for lunch etc wifey pulls off the velcro and we leave the frame in place. When we are parked we stow the frame under the sink!!
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Wifey is short and cannot reach the top of the refer and doesn't have the hand strength to pull the straps when we had the Boat fender arrangement on it. Now she can secure the refer for travel and open it up when we're stopped without help.
We've made two round trips to Calif from Mo and one from Mo to Maine down thru the Jersey coast, DC, and down thru Tenn back to Mo over some of the roughest pieces of poor excuse for road I've been on and this lashup has never failed.

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