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Old 07-27-2013, 05:53 AM   #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpasetto View Post
Hi Bob, It seems only a few weeks since we talked about this very issue back in WY... Sure enough it finally happened to me. Walked into the coach today and the smell of ammonia is unbelievably strong... started to take the unit apart following your instructions and pictures. Hopefully the NH3 smell will not do me in before I get it all the way out.

... back to the "project"... I hope you have the time for some phone consulting. I'll probably need your advice.

.. Rick Pasetto
Rick,

Sorry for your troubles. Jon emailed everyone on the tour a roster with phone numbers so you should have my phone numbers and email. It has been two years since the Samsung project so my memory is fading fast. We signed up for the MI Pre-Rally in March so hope to see you there.

Bob
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Old 08-06-2013, 01:39 PM   #142
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I just followed your information and installed the same box in my HR Ambassator and were so pleased with the results. I left the top vent open thinking it needed to vent but when it got to 100 here at the lake I felt much hot air so I climbed up to the top and sealed with insulation boards. Thanks for such detailed info and for going to the trouble. Ernie..
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Old 08-06-2013, 01:47 PM   #143
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I just followed your information and installed the same box in my HR Ambassator and were so pleased with the results. I left the top vent open thinking it needed to vent but when it got to 100 here at the lake I felt much hot air so I climbed up to the top and sealed with insulation boards. Thanks for such detailed info and for going to the trouble. Ernie..
Your welcome Ernie. That is why I sealed off both outside vents because my theroy is that the Samsung was designed to work against indoor air that has been cooled by your HVAC unit. Asking it to work against hot outside air will reduce the efficiency.

Glad to be of help,

Bob
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Old 08-06-2013, 08:15 PM   #144
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I thought I would post a photo of my door lock again. I know my prototype photo didn't go over well. This is my finished product. It's not necessarily pretty, but works great. I already made a second one for my sister.

It locks all three doors with one piece. While travelling, you can slide it right or left and open either door. If you want ice, you need to open one door and slide it off. When parked, it goes in a cabinet. Has worked GREAT on two trips now. It doesn't interfere with the seals and has felt on the back so it doesn't scratch the door.
Don
I really like your prototype. Can you please tell us how to go about making one or better yet I'd be willing to buy one from you. I plan to install my RF197 in 3 weeks.
Thanks,
Lloyd
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Old 08-06-2013, 09:56 PM   #145
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Lloydu......If I could find the right size plastic square tubing, I could make them fast. The one in the photo is two pieces of aluminum. The first half is made from a piece of aluminum that is 4" x 6". I put two bends in the aluminum, on the long end, so it ends up in a "C" shape. The first bend is about a 1/2" tall. From the first bend I measure 3 1/4" and make the second bend. You now have two flaps, one is a 1/2" tall and the other is about 2" tall. This one piece can be placed at the top of the refer over the two doors and lock them.

If you take another piece of aluminum 4" x 4" and bend it into a right angle, you'll have the bottom piece that locks the freezer door. I rivet the two pieces together. I painted mine black because it's easy to see if it's on, against my SS refer, when I'm driving. I made my sister's red because she has a black refer. Once painted, I cover all of the sides that touch the refer with felt, glued on with 3M spray.

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Old 08-06-2013, 10:55 PM   #146
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Lloydu......If I could find the right size plastic square tubing, I could make them fast. The one in the photo is two pieces of aluminum. The first half is made from a piece of aluminum that is 4" x 6". I put two bends in the aluminum, on the long end, so it ends up in a "C" shape. The first bend is about a 1/2" tall. From the first bend I measure 3 1/4" and make the second bend. You now have two flaps, one is a 1/2" tall and the other is about 2" tall. This one piece can be placed at the top of the refer over the two doors and lock them.

If you take another piece of aluminum 4" x 4" and bend it into a right angle, you'll have the bottom piece that locks the freezer door. I rivet the two pieces together. I painted mine black because it's easy to see if it's on, against my SS refer, when I'm driving. I made my sister's red because she has a black refer. Once painted, I cover all of the sides that touch the refer with felt, glued on with 3M spray.
Don,
I appreciate your prompt reply. Your instructions are great and I can't wait to fabricate mine. I like the fact that I don't need to use any screws or sticky tape to attach to the fridge.
Many thanks!
Lloyd
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Old 09-02-2013, 03:17 PM   #147
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I just quickly read the post, very nice. I am in the process of doing it in a 2005 diplomat. I will let you know the progress. Reinhold
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Old 09-02-2013, 11:19 PM   #148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diplomat Don View Post
I thought I would post a photo of my door lock again. I know my prototype photo didn't go over well. This is my finished product. It's not necessarily pretty, but works great. I already made a second one for my sister.

It locks all three doors with one piece. While travelling, you can slide it right or left and open either door. If you want ice, you need to open one door and slide it off. When parked, it goes in a cabinet. Has worked GREAT on two trips now. It doesn't interfere with the seals and has felt on the back so it doesn't scratch the door.
Hey Don...nice lock. May I order one? Give me a price please!
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Old 09-02-2013, 11:49 PM   #149
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I would make them and give them away for free if I could find the right size plastic square tubing.
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Old 09-03-2013, 10:48 AM   #150
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Smile Rf197 Install Thoughts

Ordered mine from Godeckers last week. Tons of great ideas here. My thoughts so far as I plan:
1. Every coach is different.
2. I like the metal frame support structure. Space is tight on my Escaper. After all, why cant the furnace share the warm air from the fridge? I really want to avoid removal of the furnace if I can. Even if it is not too efficient. That would drive some form of new electric furnace design or big bucks heat pumps.
3. Why do Dometic (mine) and Norcold not put in fire alarms or detectors? Mediocre is bad enough. Dangerous is another story.
4. I lean towards a dedicated inverter. Not hard to build a 5min time delay switchover relay.
5. The pass through(s) are very fast switchers, but I would prefer direct shore power unless I am moving or boondocking. The microwave especially the one with the convection oven is a heck of a power surge when it comes on. I would rather avoid that.
6. Probably overkill but I have already moved the TV's and related to dedicated inverters with switchover. Wanted to avoid inverter "overhead"

Question:
What did you do to plumb a defrost drain? Or was it needed?
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Old 09-04-2013, 06:24 AM   #151
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Ordered mine from Godeckers last week. Tons of great ideas here. My thoughts so far as I plan:
1. Every coach is different.
2. I like the metal frame support structure. Space is tight on my Escaper. After all, why cant the furnace share the warm air from the fridge? I really want to avoid removal of the furnace if I can. Even if it is not too efficient. That would drive some form of new electric furnace design or big bucks heat pumps.
3. Why do Dometic (mine) and Norcold not put in fire alarms or detectors? Mediocre is bad enough. Dangerous is another story.
4. I lean towards a dedicated inverter. Not hard to build a 5min time delay switchover relay.
5. The pass through(s) are very fast switchers, but I would prefer direct shore power unless I am moving or boondocking. The microwave especially the one with the convection oven is a heck of a power surge when it comes on. I would rather avoid that.
6. Probably overkill but I have already moved the TV's and related to dedicated inverters with switchover. Wanted to avoid inverter "overhead"

Question:
What did you do to plumb a defrost drain? Or was it needed?
I didn't put a defrost drain on mine, and did not see anything about that on any other RF197 posts.

re: #4 Can you elaborate on your thoughts about the "5min time delay switchover relay" and dedicated inverters?
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Old 09-05-2013, 08:16 AM   #152
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I didn't put a defrost drain on mine, and did not see anything about that on any other RF197 posts.

re: #4 Can you elaborate on your thoughts about the "5min time delay switchover relay" and dedicated inverters?
I keep seeing posts that it is potentially harmful to interrupt the refrigerators run cycle without a break. IE: Power surges and very short power interruptions. Pass thru inverters switch over very fast but some other switchovers do not.
The five minutes +/- would allow both the reefer and power source to stabilize before reapplying power. I don't know for sure that this is necessary in the newer refrigerators. Some build that in. It was a thought.

Dedicated inverters: My new 37inch TV uses 35 watts vs 200-300 for the old one. A small inverter physically close to the TV has very low standby current draw, can use the standard coach wiring, isolates the AC load, and lets me run the TV anytime, on batteries, with low drain.

The advantages are that I can have AC anywhere/anytime without heavy wiring or mods. Same for the reefer. My other fear would have been the Microwave, Reefer, Hair drier and whatever else all running at once. With a dedicated inverter, I can plan its load exactly and spend less if I choose to use a Sine Wave inverter.

Inverter quality, cost, and appliance demand have all dropped over the years allowing some design considerations that we never had before. I could go on, but a well designed and planned power system depends on your needs and plans. It always needs to be reliable and efficient.
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Old 09-05-2013, 08:51 PM   #153
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Big Domino:
The inverter has a "pass through" such that, when it detects 125v from another source (either Genset or shore power), it ceases inverting and passes the 125v on through to the coach. If the inverter is left on, the instant it detects the loss of 125 volts, it begins inverting so the fridge continues to run as if nothing happened. My coach is the same as Nodine's and I have mine hooked up the same. Inverter is on 24/7.
There are 2 receptacles in the rear of the enclosure, one with a refrigerator label stuck to it. Which one is the inverter line? I disconnected my 110V shore power, turned the inverter on but detected NO power from any receptacle. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Electron challenged.
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Old 09-05-2013, 08:57 PM   #154
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Lloyd, it's very possible that neither receptacle is run through the inverter. You will need to find the run going to the refer plug and then reroute it to connect to a circuit that runs through the inverter. That may entail moving other circuits to balance the load.
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