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Old 09-08-2011, 12:32 PM   #43
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JDT -- Don`t use a 15amp switch, use a 20amp -- Home Depot has a lighted, 20 amp switch - Bill Willard
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Old 09-08-2011, 09:31 PM   #44
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Here's a thought......On the coaches with the vents under the refer, like mine, you could combine the wiring from both outlets (inverter and regular) into one double outlet near the vent opening. Put a hinge on the vented cover and a magnetic latch. When you you arrive at a campground, open the vent and switch the plug from one outlet to the other. There might even be a double outlet with a two position switch that would allow you to just through a switch from one to the other.
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Old 09-09-2011, 07:02 AM   #45
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I am confused about the inverter discussion. While our coach is not a Monaco I assume the set up is similar to ours. The outlets on the inverter are switched to shore power when connected aren't they? I can turn the inverter off on the power center panel and all of the outlets still work. I can also put the inverter on stand by and have it switch on when the power is disconnected. Is this switch over not almost instantaneous and quick enough to safely transition the fridge with doing anything? I know the power has burped at home many times and all of the fridges have not seen any noticeable damage.
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Old 09-09-2011, 09:37 AM   #46
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Don -- You can use 2, 20 amp switches for the change over, or a double pole, double throw switch -- Home Depot has lighted switches that would work -- With those, you could see which circuit is hot & never on at the same time -- I`m staying with the plug & unplug method -- That way I know that I won`t screw up & have the 2 circuits connected --

Mark -- Even though the 197 don`t draw much power, & you`re on a circuit that goes through the inverter, that circuit probably powers the kitchen, bathroom, & front tv, or on one that powers the microwave -- If you use a coffee pot, toaster, hairdryer, TV, or such items that uses alot of amps, you`re going to overload the circuit -- I know when you turn the inverter off, that it`s a quick change over, but if the compressor is running, you stand a very good chance of short cycling the compressor, & thats not good --We`ve had to replace alot of air conditioner compressors over the years because of storm related power outage`s -- If the compressor`s not running when you switch, then you`re OK, but you have to have your hand on the 197 compressor to tell if it`s running, it`s so quite -- Bill Willard
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Old 09-09-2011, 01:40 PM   #47
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Thanks Bill,
I see what you are saying. What happened to me when I went to check the outlet originally installed for the Norcold it was not on the inverter. On the outside wall of the cabinet it was in there was a GFI that was on the inverter and fed out to the bathroom. I swapped them so the Samsung is alone on that breaker and on the inverter. We don't need the outlets in the bath on the inverter or anything besides the fridge for that matter since we would run the generator for that.

It would be interesting to see how long a delay there is, perhaps using a light bulb, between running on the inverter and getting plugged in. The only time the fridge will be on anything but shore power is en route and occasional stop over between destinations. Not much boondocking for us.

The 197 also has a sales floor (or something like that) mode where you can turn it off by holding two buttons down. It leaves the lights operable for showrooms but not the refrigeration. We could shut it down once the compressor stops and reset to on when the power has stabilized. No way do we want to have to have it serviced or worse have to remove it for no reason.
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Old 09-09-2011, 05:16 PM   #48
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Well, my Samsung is in it's hole. The 2 Lowe's guys and a friend and myself got it in the door. We had to lift it in. I put a towel over the dash area but still got a nick in it by the radio. Wife was not happy but it is small and I think we can repair it.

I had built my platform level with and surrounding the furnace on 3 sides. I then added two half inch plywood layers on top of that to get better clearance over the furnace but when we got it in the top of the doors rubbed on the ceiling. I took one of the layers off and that was perfect. Still have a couple of inches clearance above the furnace. I had to completely remove the top wood brace that went between the side walls of the cabinet. This caused the 2 side walls to be unattached at the ceiling and they were loose. I put some screws through the top braces on the sidewalls into the ceiling to solve that problem. The right side wall was not level with the side of the fridge which I corrected before I put in the screws.

Now to figure out how to anchor it. My friend fabricated some metal L brackets to take the place of the mounting brackets for the leveling feet. I will attach the the brackets to the screw holes used for the feet and attach it to the wood floor below. I decided I want to leave the wheels on and now have to figure out something to brace it from behind. Not much room to work with. Also, I just don't see a way to anchor it at the top because it is so close to the ceiling.

My platform cart has really been handy. It is almost level with my mounting platform and makes it easy to roll in and out by myself. Can't remember who suggested that but thanks.

The only downside I have noted is I wish I was taller. At 5' 9" I can reach the top shelf easily but it is a little high. The wife is 5" shorter than me but says she is fine with it as she can at least see what is up there thru the glass shelves. At least the freezer is in a perfect position.

My friend finished his install on Tuesday. He ran the fridge on the inverter for 11 hours (no icemaker) and only ran the batteries down .3 volts.
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Old 09-09-2011, 08:28 PM   #49
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Tension Bars to keep stuff in place

We are on the road and the Samsung is doing great. There have been no issues and the travel straps are easy to use and out of the way, even without taking them out of the fender locks. As I write this we are sitting at Fort Chiswell RV Park in Virgina and just let the straps hang down. Before we left home this morning I purchased some tension rods in the curtain department at WalMart. They come in handy to keep stuff from moving toward the door while traveling. I was worried things would fall out on the floor when we opened the door after a rough road. We negotiated several places today that caused considerable side to side motion and everything stayed in place.


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Old 09-09-2011, 09:16 PM   #50
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Bob, great idea on the tension bars. Will get some tomorrow.
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Old 09-10-2011, 06:59 AM   #51
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Great post and photos Bob, you put alot of thought in your installation and I really liked the black trim idea aroud the frame.
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Old 09-10-2011, 07:39 AM   #52
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Bob, where did you get the black plastic edging for your cabinet trim boards?

Also, just realized it was you who did the cart thing. There have been so many posts on this subject that I forget who said what. But, that's a good thing because my install has sure been easier, so far, anyway.
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Old 09-10-2011, 07:01 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDT View Post
Bob, where did you get the black plastic edging for your cabinet trim boards?

Also, just realized it was you who did the cart thing. There have been so many posts on this subject that I forget who said what. But, that's a good thing because my install has sure been easier, so far, anyway.
Jim,

I ordered it from here:

3/4 IN. U-Channel (19.050 mm) - U Channel - Extrusions

If anyone lives near me I have extra. The shipping was about the same for 3 or 8 eight foot sections so I ordered 8.

Bob
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Old 09-11-2011, 05:36 AM   #54
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I would be surprised if the Samsung doesn't have a timer on the compressor to allow pressure to drop before a restart.

My electric company caused the East coast blackout. We have brown outs and interruptions all the time with no apparent effect on appliances.
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Old 09-11-2011, 10:13 AM   #55
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Coma -- The manual states that to wait 5 minutes before restarting, after a shut down while compressor is running -- Nothing about safeguards that protect the compressor in case of a power interruption -- Maybe there, but I`ll play it safe & hang around for the 5 -- What I`m doing is maybe an overkill, but after 4 years of grief with the Dometic 1402, & the work of this install, I`m not taking any chances -- I would like to find a manual transfer switch, but all I`ve found so far, is to big for this application -- An automatic would transfer switch would be to iffy -- Bill Willard
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Old 09-11-2011, 12:03 PM   #56
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I have a question/comment regarding inverters and possible loss of power.
First since many MH now come with Residential Fridges how do the manufactures handle the loss of power issue. To my knowledge they run the fridges off of inverter output power regardless of the source of power shore, gen or battery.

Second I have looked at the RF 197 specs and Samsung states the the unit is rated at 115 volts 60 Hz 11.6 amps, however they state the draw in startup and running modes can range from 1 amp to 4.3 amps. The 4.3 amps works out to 495 Watts and at the max amps of 11.1 it is around 1200 watts.

If you are concerned with the ability of the current inverter to handle the load why not invest in a small inverter dedicated to running the fridge. I saw at the TheInverterStore.com they have a 600 watt constant duty pure sine inverter for $150 or a 1000 watt constant power 2000 watt one for $299.00. Either of these could be wired directly to the house batteries to ensure that you have constant power for the fridge. The most difficult thing involved may be running a 115 VAC circuit from the inverter which will need to be located close to the batteries to the back of the fridge compartment. Adding another $150 to $300 dollars to this project does not sound like much to protect the investment in the fridge.
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