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Old 09-11-2011, 12:51 PM   #57
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Dave -- It cost me about $15.00 for the unplug/plug method, & it has served me well so far -- Maybe a PIA at times, but that`s life in the RVing world -- Bill Willard
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Old 09-11-2011, 05:33 PM   #58
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Coma -- The manual states that to wait 5 minutes before restarting, after a shut down while compressor is running -- Nothing about safeguards that protect the compressor in case of a power interruption -- Maybe there, but I`ll play it safe & hang around for the 5 -- What I`m doing is maybe an overkill, but after 4 years of grief with the Dometic 1402, & the work of this install, I`m not taking any chances -- I would like to find a manual transfer switch, but all I`ve found so far, is to big for this application -- An automatic would transfer switch would be to iffy -- Bill Willard
Thanks for the info!!!

My Samsung is on order and I fully understand the PIA. Manual unplug is good for sure, I wonder if a 5 min timer on the plug could be added?
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Old 09-11-2011, 11:14 PM   #59
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Well, the Samsung is secured in its spot and is running. After about 3 hours it was at 38 degrees in the top and 17 in the freezer. The only thing left is is filling in the outside vent hole, redoing the old vent for the furnace and getting the travel straps installed. I wound up ordering the same latches Bob used as Bass Pro Shops in Tulsa didn't have them and I really liked they way they work and look.

I have to admit it was a lot of work but about what I expected. I can understand why a dealer would charge a bunch to do it. A lot of trial and error especially in securing it. I read all the different ways it was done here and that helped. My major concern was tipping but with it only an inch from the ceiling I didn't have many options. It is well secured in the front and I put a couple of screws in the bottom thru the platform but it still had some movement. Finally decided my only option was to use the top vent hole. I built 2 T's out of the 5/4 poplar I use for furniture frames. The top of the T was 4 3/4" wide by 6" long. The leg of the T was about 5" long. The inside of the roof vent is surrounded by a metal frame. I inverted the T, pushed the leg up against the end, put downward pressure on it to push against the top of the fridge and used 5 self tapping screws thru the leg to secure it to the end of the vent. Did the same on the other side. It is now rock solid.

I filled in the vent hole with some cut to fit pieces of styrofoam insulation and reinstalled the vent cover, which I will leave. If I ever have to take out the fridge I will have to remove the T's so really don't want to permanently cover the hole.

I have an idea for the bottom vent on the inside. Instead of cutting down the old one, which was screwed in place, I found some light oak furnace vents at Lowe's, almost a perfect match for our wood. They have plastic directional fins on the back side but they are just tacked on. I will remove them and build a frame to fit the hole and 2 of the oak vent facings, use hinges to attach it at the bottom of the hole and a latch at top to hold it in place. Since I put the receptacles up front under the fridge I can just open the door and plug or unplug at will. I also bought an extra vent to put at the same level on the right side under the mirror just for more air flow.
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Old 09-14-2011, 05:40 PM   #60
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We are on the road and the Samsung is doing great. There have been no issues and the travel straps are easy to use and out of the way, even without taking them out of the fender locks. As I write this we are sitting at Fort Chiswell RV Park in Virgina and just let the straps hang down. Before we left home this morning I purchased some tension rods in the curtain department at WalMart. They come in handy to keep stuff from moving toward the door while traveling. I was worried things would fall out on the floor when we opened the door after a rough road. We negotiated several places today that caused considerable side to side motion and everything stayed in place.


Bob
Keep us informed on issues encountered while traveling. We seem to get a lot of "WalMart wobble" from time to time and the specter of the fridge or its contents coming out of the cabinet is a thought.
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Old 09-15-2011, 05:52 AM   #61
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Keep us informed on issues encountered while traveling. We seem to get a lot of "WalMart wobble" from time to time and the specter of the fridge or its contents coming out of the cabinet is a thought.
Ron
Ron,

We are just south of Pittsburgh,PA and have been here since Sunday. At this point I am feeling good about how the Samsung travels but will still keep an eye on things. Heading back home tomorrow so will get some more experience with Samsung travel. We usually run the generator while on the road so don't yet have much experience on the inverter. We are not full time and only use the coach on average once a month. I like to use the generator to keep moisture from building up on the windings. That said, all the power for the Samsung still has to travel through the inverter circuit breaker. We haven't tripped it yet, even running one hair dryer on the same circuit.

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Old 09-30-2011, 07:01 AM   #62
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There have been several posts recently about replacing Notcold fridges with residential models. I have been thinking about doing this for almost a year. Yesterday, I did a search on iRV2 for "residential refrigerator" looking for something I remember seeing in a post in one of the other sections of the forum, and I discovered this great thread (and the slightly older one started by RickT) over here on the Monaco Owners Forum.

I have some questions for Bob Nodine - I got the impression you left the back cover off the Samsung. I always thought the back cover was necessary to help direct the air flow over the coils on the bottom of the fridge so the air didn't just dissipate out the back. That was the case for an upright freezer we used to have back when we had a stick house. You probably haven't used the Samsung in any real warm weather yet, but do you think there will be any adverse effect leaving the cover off? Also, is there any way to get the cover back on from outside the motorhome through the back opening?
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Old 09-30-2011, 08:27 AM   #63
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Paz -- I have the 197 in a 07 Camelot -- It`s in the road side slide-out -- I have a 3 inch clearance between the outer wall & the back of frig, & I can remove the back cover of the frig thru the outside vent-- I prepared for this before I installed the frig in the hole -- Made some clips that was easy to remove in place of the factory installed screws -- I`m no appliance guru, but I think the cover is to left on the frig --We just left southern AZ, to nothern NM, & it was upper 90`s most of the way, & no problems with the 197 -- Bill Willard
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Old 09-30-2011, 01:23 PM   #64
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Paz -- I have the 197 in a 07 Camelot -- It`s in the road side slide-out -- I have a 3 inch clearance between the outer wall & the back of frig, & I can remove the back cover of the frig thru the outside vent-- I prepared for this before I installed the frig in the hole -- Made some clips that was easy to remove in place of the factory installed screws -- I`m no appliance guru, but I think the cover is to left on the frig --We just left southern AZ, to nothern NM, & it was upper 90`s most of the way, & no problems with the 197 -- Bill Willard
I think I would rather put the cover back on after bolting the base to the floor if I can. According to Bob's photos, the cover goes all the way across the back, and our outside access door is to the right. Therefore, the clips sound like a good idea to hold the left end in case I can't reach the screws on that side. I'll have at least a 3" gap at the back like you, so I'm hoping I can get my hand in there.
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Old 09-30-2011, 04:09 PM   #65
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After reading this I decided to see if I could get the rear cover back on mine as I had initially left it off. My old Norcold access is also to the right and I can't get to the bottom. I was able to manuever it in place but had to do a little body work on it to give some clearance for the ice maker lines and the electric cord. I was only able to secure it along the top of the cover by adding some extra screws in line with the one I could see. It only had 4 to begin with and with the few extra screws along the top it seems to be very stable. It just needs to be secure enough to withstand the movement of the coach.

I do have a question. I moved both of the electrical outlets to the front under the fridge and built a hinged access panel so I can easily plug and unplug it. I know I will use the inverter plug when going down the road and dry camping (which we never do). Does anyone know for sure if the inverter limits the power consumption on the inverter outlets to the 2000 watts, no matter if the coach is on shore/generator power or not? I don't want to have to worry about tripping inverter breaker when the wife fires up the hair dryer. It will be easy enough to switch outlets when parked so is that what I should do?
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Old 09-30-2011, 07:27 PM   #66
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...
I do have a question. I moved both of the electrical outlets to the front under the fridge and built a hinged access panel so I can easily plug and unplug it. I know I will use the inverter plug when going down the road and dry camping (which we never do). Does anyone know for sure if the inverter limits the power consumption on the inverter outlets to the 2000 watts, no matter if the coach is on shore/generator power or not? I don't want to have to worry about tripping inverter breaker when the wife fires up the hair dryer. It will be easy enough to switch outlets when parked so is that what I should do?
Jim,

Almost all the wall outlets pass through one 20 circuit on the inverter, that includes the one for the ice maker which I now use for the Samsung. If you pull more than 20 amps through that circuit breaker it will trip. It does not matter if you are on shore power, gen set, or inverter; it all goes through the same 20 breaker on the front of the inverter. What I am doing to get around this problem is to run a 20 amp service from the pedestal to two outlets installed in the bath areas. We will use those outlets for electric heaters and hair dryers. We have not yet tripped the circuit breaker with the Samsung, but winter is approaching and we like to use electric heaters in the bath area and sometimes two hair dryers are on at the same time.

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Old 09-30-2011, 07:36 PM   #67
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There have been several posts recently about replacing Notcold fridges with residential models. I have been thinking about doing this for almost a year. Yesterday, I did a search on iRV2 for "residential refrigerator" looking for something I remember seeing in a post in one of the other sections of the forum, and I discovered this great thread (and the slightly older one started by RickT) over here on the Monaco Owners Forum.

I have some questions for Bob Nodine - I got the impression you left the back cover off the Samsung. I always thought the back cover was necessary to help direct the air flow over the coils on the bottom of the fridge so the air didn't just dissipate out the back. That was the case for an upright freezer we used to have back when we had a stick house. You probably haven't used the Samsung in any real warm weather yet, but do you think there will be any adverse effect leaving the cover off? Also, is there any way to get the cover back on from outside the motorhome through the back opening?
Paz,

There are no coils on the back of the Samsung and air does not need to flow up across the back. The coils are on the left and right side underneath the surface. There is a small, square heat exchanger at the bottom of the Samsung with a fan mounted on the surface. Air is pulled in from the bottom front of the Samsung and forced across that heat exchanger. In my opinion, removing the panel and leaving it off will not adversely affect the performance of the Samsung. If you feel better leaving it on just make sure you can get it off for service.

Bob
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Old 09-30-2011, 10:02 PM   #68
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Bob, I have 2 outlets under the fridge. They are the same circuits that powered the old Norcold, of course. One had the icemaker plugged in to it and the other the fridge. My understanding is the one for the icemaker was powered thru the inverter and the other was not.

I just went out and used my tester and, of course, they both showed 119-120 volts. I then killed the breaker in the bedroom labeled refrigerator. It shut off the power to the one that was for the old Norcold but not the one that ran the icemaker. When I was moving the outlets for the Samsung I removed the shorepower and turned on the inverter and the only circuit hot was the one for the icemaker. My assumption at the time was one ran thru inverter and the other got its power directly from the post outside. Then I remembered I have a converter/inverter, an EMS, a transfer switch and other stuff that ties in somehow and I gave up thinking about it.

Sorry if my question was a bit confusing but I know the microwave outlet is running thru the inverter as are the bathroom and some kitchen outlets and if it, the fridge and a hair dryer are going at the same time I am concerned it may trip the inverter breaker. I'm just not sure if the 2000 watt limit, if there is such a thing, applies if shore power is there.

I hope this is clear. I can do a lot of things but electricity is not one of my strengths.
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Old 09-30-2011, 10:17 PM   #69
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Ordered our new Samsung 197 today at Lowes in Hollister, Mo. 28 day delivery quote. It's all down hill frome here!!!!
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Old 10-01-2011, 06:20 AM   #70
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Bob, I have 2 outlets under the fridge. They are the same circuits that powered the old Norcold, of course. One had the icemaker plugged in to it and the other the fridge. My understanding is the one for the icemaker was powered thru the inverter and the other was not.

I just went out and used my tester and, of course, they both showed 119-120 volts. I then killed the breaker in the bedroom labeled refrigerator. It shut off the power to the one that was for the old Norcold but not the one that ran the icemaker. When I was moving the outlets for the Samsung I removed the shorepower and turned on the inverter and the only circuit hot was the one for the icemaker. My assumption at the time was one ran thru inverter and the other got its power directly from the post outside. Then I remembered I have a converter/inverter, an EMS, a transfer switch and other stuff that ties in somehow and I gave up thinking about it.

Sorry if my question was a bit confusing but I know the microwave outlet is running thru the inverter as are the bathroom and some kitchen outlets and if it, the fridge and a hair dryer are going at the same time I am concerned it may trip the inverter breaker. I'm just not sure if the 2000 watt limit, if there is such a thing, applies if shore power is there.

I hope this is clear. I can do a lot of things but electricity is not one of my strengths.
Jim,

You have correctly described how the 110VAC circuits are wired. The 110VAC outlet that does not go through the inverter and is connected to the circuit breaker labeled refrigerator is a direct connection from that circuit breaker to the frig and does not even pass through the EMS. In other words, the Norcold was not shed by the EMS if you only had 30 amp shore power.

The 2000 watt limit is for the Magnum Inverter only and limits how much power can be drawn through the inverter while operating on batteries. If the internal transfer switch in the inverter is connected to the generator or shore power, then the two 20 amp circuit breakers on the front of the inverter limit how much power can be drawn through it. That limit is approximately 4800 watts. The one circuit breaker that powers all the outlets except the microwave can handle about 2400 watts when on shore power. The Samsung uses about 360 watts and allowing for start up in rush current could go to about 1000 watts. If you were only powering the Samsung and one hair dryer at the high setting you could trip the breaker if the compressor started. That is why I am installing the two 110 VAC outlets in the bath area to power hair dryers and heaters. I have future plans to install a second inverter that only powers the Samsung, but since winter is coming on I don't want to get into that now.

I like running the Samsung on the inverter so power to it is never interrupted while changing power sources, i.e., breaking camp. If we leave the inverter on 24/7 even the microwave clock does not have to be reset. We also leave the AGS on all the time so if the batteries get low the generator will start. In your case, since you have the two outlets located where you can move the Samsung between the inverter and direct 110VAC, then that will take care of your needs. You just have to remember to move the plug when you want to run the Samsung on the inverter.

Sorry for the long post, I do understand electricity.

Bob
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