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Old 11-28-2019, 05:02 AM   #1
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SeaLand Opus 3110 toilet

The circuit board for this is no longer available and many owners have replaced the whole toilet when the circuit board failed.

I am looking at making myself a replacement controller and am looking for a mechanism.

Does anyone have the mechanism available from one they replaced?

Thanks in advance.

Paul
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Old 11-28-2019, 06:04 AM   #2
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Paul, what do you mean by the "mechanism"? Are you referring to the "mechanical" ball opening motor part, or are you looking for a used circuit board to reverse engineer?

BTW, used boards and parts come up in the classified section from time to time. I was able to get a used board (and now that I have it, I will probably never need it. That's the plan anyways).

See this link http://www.irv2.com/rvclassifieds/sh...nd-3110&cat=23
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Old 11-28-2019, 07:30 AM   #3
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DC 12V Electric Solenoid Valve Switch Water Air 1/2" Brass Normally Closed N/C

The above valve on Ebay is my plan for when the board dies. As long as the motor and ball are still working all you need is a three position spring loaded, center off.

Push switch to top to open the valve above letting water into the bowl. Down to open the ball and flush.

You can choose how much water to use...pretty simple. IMHO a great comfortable seat/heighth and not something to be ripped out. WAAAAY over engineered in the first place with the multi level electronics board.

BTW my switch is already there, a Carling to replace that crappy (pun) stock switch that died long ago!
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Old 11-28-2019, 10:29 AM   #4
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My board went out. I am looking for the mechanism with motor and switches to get the timing right so I donít have to take mine out more than I need to.
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Old 11-28-2019, 10:34 AM   #5
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SeaLand Opus 3110 toilet

Quote:
Originally Posted by Twomed View Post
The above valve on Ebay is my plan for when the board dies. As long as the motor and ball are still working all you need is a three position spring loaded, center off.

Push switch to top to open the valve above letting water into the bowl. Down to open the ball and flush.


Like this?

Click image for larger version

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ID:	268137

It worked until I didnít get the timing right and it broke the arm.

You could use the limit switches to add complexity to the circuitry, but I am a long time embedded engineer, so an automatic solution appeals more to me.

Paul
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Old 12-16-2019, 03:18 PM   #6
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I got our prototype controller working!

Forgive the size of the solution. I was focused on using off the shelf components.

We will be using it for travel later this week and will report back on the success

Click image for larger version

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ID:	269641

Paul
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Old 12-16-2019, 04:26 PM   #7
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Wow! Impressive. I think you will have a lot of customers if you decide to make and sell them.
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Old 12-16-2019, 09:54 PM   #8
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Paul, that's amazing! Impressive reverse engineering.
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Old 12-17-2019, 03:27 AM   #9
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Thanks guys.

The SeaLand documentation was very good and helped me understand many of the details, especially the timings for the different water levels. They made a well engineered product. Someone there spent a lot of time on and put a lot of thought into the original.

I did replace the relays on my original board, but that did not bring it back to life. It is tough to troubleshoot further because of the protective coating that stops probing of the pins on the ICís.

I found the same connectors to make it a plug and play installation.

I still need to add some type of status display. The funny thing is that it probably cheaper and easier to add an LCD display than to replicate the 13 LEDís on the original board.

I still have some software optimizations and improvements to do after this trip, but that is pretty straight forward.

I know there are at least two models of control boards. I suspect that a single model would replace both models, assuming the connectors are the same. The control board with the switches at the left and right sides has an extra mode on the board compared to the one with both switches on the left side. There is a Manual Override in addition to Service. I assume, but have not confirmed, that the mechanisms have the same motor, limit switches, and water valve.

It would be great if anyone can post pictures of their control boards, including pictures of the connectors.

And if anyone had a toilet they took out and replaced because their control board went bad, I am still after a complete mechanism so I donít have to keep taking ours in and out.

By the way, I fully appreciate the irony of having an electric toilet with a control board versus a simple foot lever model. It adds unnecessary complexity, but with about $100,000 dollars difference between the trim levels on the top Monaco models, they had money to spend on upgraded components, and this is one of them. I respect those people choose to replace it with a foot lever toilet but I prefer to keep this one going. It doesnít have to make sense.
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Old 12-17-2019, 06:24 AM   #10
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Paul,
I had the same issue with mine, took the system apart and installed limit switches on the flusher arm coming off of the motor and removed the PC board. Works perfectly! Push handle down, flush and refill, pull up, fill water only.
Not complex at all other than having to make and install a switch mount plate.

I had the extra fun of having to make a repair to my mechanical arm which is plastic as it was cracked. Can't remember how much a new arm was but I think I had to buy the new motor to get a new arm so I took the time to design a repair.

I have pictures somewhere, will see if I can dig them up.
There is no reason a camper toilet should cost this much money. That PC board is WAY more complex than it ever needed to be

The new ones do not have a water level adjustment and are a lot noisier.
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Old 12-17-2019, 11:29 AM   #11
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A picture of our Sealand 3010 circuit board.
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Old 12-17-2019, 07:29 PM   #12
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We gut and replace old panels and build many smallish systems at work with Omron Zen plcs. . Its usually cheaper than hand full of relays ,blocks, lamps you can save. Much easier to add on to later ,when you think your finished and realize that it can be better.They have small LCD screen that you can program for first out alarm message , even have it back light in alarm event to make easy tor read in an enclosure. Sometimes we will just blink single lamp coded to many alarms. Use less bottons like stop hold for reset .Eaton has copied Zen and I have seen China copy for as little $50 depending on number of relays with free software. Not sure if they have all the bells an whistles of Zen plc.
A small 12vDc to 24v would be necessary to power up 24v version.
I'm the one rebuilding the old control panels or build new ones . Our elect. engineer writes the programs. I really need to learn write the programs next A lot of times, I have built and designed the whole thing from on hand or left over components. I have typed whole ladder just on the touch screen . Its doable but a pain.
If you can build that you could probably easily write a program .
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Old 12-17-2019, 08:51 PM   #13
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I built it using an Arduino Nano as the processor. I have been working with embedded systems for way longer than I care to admit. The software was the easy bit.

Paul
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Old 12-17-2019, 08:52 PM   #14
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SeaLand Opus 3110 toilet

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Originally Posted by vito.a View Post
A picture of our Sealand 3010 circuit board.


Thanks Vito.

The plugs match my board, but the switches are different. Your board also has 16 status LEDís vs the 13 on mine. Did you find a manual for that version of the controller?

Iíll post up a picture of mine when I get a chance.

Paul
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