Community Forums

Phil Palmer · 01-01-2017, 01:54 PM

I need your help. My convection/microwave will not hold a temperature when trying to cook. It keeps cutting off every couple minutes. I then have to push the restart button to get it to start cooking again. It takes about an hour and 1/2 to just try the cook a pizza and then It isn't really done. I think I have seen someone mention a "part" that is in the back that may have gone out or not working correctly. I think this part controls the temperature. Any suggestions. Please advise.
Phil

Rburian · 01-01-2017, 03:43 PM

This is a common problem with the Sharp Micro, there is a thread on this site on how to repair, search Sharp Micro, since the unit needs to be removed to repair, I decided to replace with a new unit.

Spaceball · 01-02-2017, 05:20 PM

If it is otherwise working but shutting off after 59 seconds only requiring you to push the start button again it's likely the damper switch or motor. Mine had the same issue and after taking apart I found the switch was fried and melted, but I went ahead and replaced the motor too since I had it apart. The switch is around 5 bucks, and damper motor is 36. It's a pretty easy repair if you are handy with DIY stuff. The hardest or more awkward part of the process for me was removing/reinstalling the microwave itself from the wall. I did not have a helper so it was a bit of a contortionist balancing act ha

There is a thread here on IRV2 describing it:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/shar...val-63669.html

I got the parts off amazon, I'm sure they can be found elsewhere though:

switch - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002YOFWSK/
motor - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00296HNXK/

Good luck

Phil Palmer · 01-10-2017, 01:08 PM

Spaceball would You please if it isn't to much trouble, share with Me how to get the microwave out of the cabinet, it is bolted in.
I don't want to destroy the cabinet when I get it out. I have ordered the parts You have suggested and looking forward to get them in the unit.

Your friend

Phil

Spaceball · 01-10-2017, 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil Palmer

Spaceball would You please if it isn't to much trouble, share with Me how to get the microwave out of the cabinet, it is bolted in.
I don't want to destroy the cabinet when I get it out. I have ordered the parts You have suggested and looking forward to get them in the unit.

Your friend

Phil

Hi Phil,

You might look up the installation manual to help you visualize the process, albeit will be in reverse since your removing.

The unit is hung on the wall by 2 very long bolts at a 45 degree or so angle, and sits on a shelf-like hinge/fulcrum at the bottom rear. The bolts really just keep it from tipping out, that shelf/fulcrum it sits on carries most of the weight.

You'll have to take the plate that holds the light lens and exhaust fan filters off to expose the bolts on either side, there should be three phillips screws holding that assembly in place toward the front.

Once that large plate is out of the way, the bolts should be visible and will be roughly center of each side and angled up and toward the wall. They are very long and go into threaded anchors that remain on the wall.

Once you start loosening those bolts the unit will want to tip downward, this is where a helper is good, or your past days as a contortion artist comes in. It is quite heavy/awkward. Once those bolts are free, you tip the whole unit downward, then lift it out of the shelf/hinge at the back, don't forget to unplug it. My cord was long enough to allow my setting it on the counter without getting hung up on anything.

Hope that helps.

CJ7365 · 01-10-2017, 08:34 PM

I took my Sharp out myself, to change out the damper motor.

What I did was stack Shop manuals to the bottom of the MW, you could use anything.

Did what Spaceball said, I unbolted the 2 bolts under the microwave first, slid the manual underneath, then unbolted the top bolts that came down from the top via the cabinet above the microwave.

Now you can pick up the back of the Microwave off the rear lip, and set it down on the manuals that you built up, while your resting your arms, take the 110v cable out of the cabinet, and then you can move the MW to the table.

Phil Palmer · 01-11-2017, 11:09 AM

Thanks Spaceball and all You other Friends that have already done this. I appreciate all You help and thoughts, and if it wasn't for Our friends, We wouldn't be anything.

I will keep You in the loop when I get the motor in by mail, and get ready to change the old parts.

Thanks again

Phil

Twomed · 01-11-2017, 11:34 AM

When mine came out in addition to the long bolts there were drywall screws through the sides into the cabinets on each side...just look up and in to see if you have them. First clue will be when the unit will not move. Snowflake time as we all know.

falconman · 01-11-2017, 11:34 AM

Beware, there may be additional screws holding the oven to the surrounding cabinets!
Make sure they are removed first. You don't want them holding the oven in
place when you remove the main mounting screws, the oven is heavy and damage to the cabinets could result. Use a thin cardboard strip to slide around the oven perimeter to check for obstructions.

Spaceball · 01-11-2017, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Twomed

When mine came out in addition to the long bolts there were drywall screws through the sides into the cabinets on each side...just look up and in to see if you have them. First clue will be when the unit will not move. Snowflake time as we all know.

Yeah I forgot to mention that. Mine did not have any extra screws in the cabinetry, but I've read that manufacturers did not follow any standard rule of thumb to mounting these things (or other things) LOL

Windecker · 01-11-2017, 07:08 PM

I think I had a couple of screws in the top side of mine also.

Mine needed a new starting capacitor and was good to go again.

I have noticed lately my display is getting dimmer, anyone know why that might be?
Thanks
Windecker

Quote:

Originally Posted by falconman

Beware, there may be additional screws holding the oven to the surrounding cabinets!
Make sure they are removed first. You don't want them holding the oven in
place when you remove the main mounting screws, the oven is heavy and damage to the cabinets could result. Use a thin cardboard strip to slide around the oven perimeter to check for obstructions.

Arch Hoagland · 01-11-2017, 08:18 PM

Mine also had two screws on the top. I had to remove the floor of the cabinet overtop the the microwave.

The floor was STAPLED to the framework. It is now held in place with screws.

Mine would run 59 seconds and stop. The damper switch was bad.

I strongly suggest you have a helper, that baby is heavy.

tinstar 1114 · 01-12-2017, 01:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Windecker

I have noticed lately my display is getting dimmer, anyone know why that might be?
Thanks
Windecker

Cheap Fix for a Dim Display on an Oven Control Panel | Fixitnow.com Samurai Appliance Repair Man

http://www.subzero-wolf.com/assistan...and-unit-works

One of those will probably tell you how to repair your dim display.

slickest1 · 01-12-2017, 09:51 PM

I had a problem with our Sharpe conv/micro. The turntable motor burned out. I went online and found an outfit called Repair Clinic. They supply parts for all appliances. Just another option.