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Old 07-19-2022, 11:08 AM   #1
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Shear bolts or substitute hex head bolts for electric slideout drives

I have experienced a number of sheared bolts connecting my two front electric slideouts round motors with 3/4" diameter shafts to the 1" square steel tubing drive shafts that turn the gears to move the slides. I am not the first owner and can't tell if the sheared bolts are actual OEM shear bolts or regular hardware store replacements. I have been unable to find shear bolts of the 1 1/2", 1/4" -20 hex head coarse thread size.
I have replaced a couple with regular Grade 2 bolts and one of them has sheared already. I am hesitant to use Grade 5 or Grade 8 bolts without some assurance their shear strength would be too high. On this forum I have read some folks here swear you should use nothing stronger than Grade 2 bolts and others swear you should only use Grade 8 bolts.
Can anyone clear up my confusion with some factual based information?
2005 Monaco Knight 40PLQ; Cummins 8.3L ISC330, Pacbrake, Allison 3000, Roadmaster RR8R, ScanGauge D, 2004 Kawasaki Vulcan VN750(Geezer Glide) on a Versahaul carrier pulling a 2013 Kia Soul+; 2.0L, 6 speed Sport shifter(great car) on an American Car Dolly(great dolly.)
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Old 07-19-2022, 11:14 AM   #2
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If you are shearing bolts, there is something else going on.
Time for a deep dive into how your slides operate.
There must be a lot of "drag" somewhere........

Mike in Colorado
2004 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 37c, 8.1 gasser, (Jezebel) Ultra RV ECM / TCM and rear track bar, PPE deep Tx pan, Bilstein's, Sailun's & Sumo's all round, pushed by a 2002 Grand Caravan, on a Master Tow Dolly.
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Old 07-19-2022, 11:45 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Flyer15015 View Post
If you are shearing bolts, there is something else going on.
Time for a deep dive into how your slides operate.
There must be a lot of "drag" somewhere........

Mike in Colorado

However , the system you describe sounds like your slide drive is Power Gear , I have a Power Gear parts pdf ( too large to post here in forums ) in the bolts section the description , for what I believe is the item in question is ;

Screw, HHC 1/4-20x2"
In the parts diagram ( drawing ) attached it shows the bolt with 6 lines , indicating a grade 8 bolt , no special sheer strength listed.

If , as in the system I was working on when I got the parts pdf , the square shaft bolt holes are worn allowing the bolts to slop around and possible drive gear mis alignment ( binding ) maybe replacing the square shaft along with new bolts is required.
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Old 07-19-2022, 03:03 PM   #4
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I had the same problem until I used grade 8 shoulder type bolts. Make sure the shoulder goes all the way through the square drive shaft. No problems since using these.
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Old 07-19-2022, 03:07 PM   #5
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If the square tube holes are egg shaped in place of round, you need to drill new holes -- Remove the large tube, cut off the tube, & drill a 1/4 inch hole, being careful to drill it straight -- The hole got egg shaped by the bolt being loose -- Get 1/4 bolts, 2 inchs long -- That way no thread is inside the tube - The thread is the weakest part of the bolt -- I always used grade 5 bolts -- If you use grade 8 , you could break a tooth off the gear before the bolt broke -- The bolt is a heck of alot cheaper than a new gear -- Bill Willard
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Old 08-02-2022, 10:39 PM   #6
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Thanks for your responses guys. Unfortunately, I am inundated with cascading malfunctions I have been dealing with since my first post.
I'm being told I MUST remove my coach from St. Vrain State Park by noon Thursday and CANNOT exceed their 14 days out of 28 days limit. Because of multiple health issues including 4 surgeries and several trips to the ER this past 12 months we have been moving between this and another SP every 2 weeks since November.
I found a small motor repair shop to rewire the kitchen slideout motor because the nut on a shear bolt that had sheared caught on one of the 2 wires to the motor pulling it out of the motor. When I finally got it back and put it in it didn't work properly although it worked when I walked out the door with it. The first time I pushed the OUT position on the switch it went out. Great!! It's fixed!!
Unfortunately, when I tried pushing the IN position it kept moving out. Bummer. Next thing I know the the switch goes completely dead. No sound or movement from the slide or motor. Eventually my son and I had to remove the faux shear bolts and push it back in manually then reinstall the bolts.
I then thought I would check the other 3 slides which were out to make sure they still worked. No they did not. Both the IN and OUT switch positions on all 4 slides were dead and 3 slides won't come in. OBTW, the large front roadside dinette slide is heavy and flush with the floor. The OM has no info on manually retracting any of the slides except the one with the motor accessible under the bed. The kitchen slide and the opposing bedroom slides are all above floor slides. I have no clue how to access the motor assembly on the roadside bedroom slide containing cabinetry. It's centered over the rear axle with its duallys. No mention in the OM about manually moving the roadside slides. There was no mention about the kitchen slide either but it had easy access and I was able to figure it out.
I found the slideout relay, the 5 amp fuse and the 25 amp self-resetting CB on the control board mounted to the back wall of the battery compartment. The fuse checked good and the CB had continuity but the female connector socket, 87A in the center position of the 5 pin changeover relay was hard to find as it was covered in melted black plastic. Ah Ha! Eureka! I found it!
I used my relay tester and was surprised it tested okay even though the center blade was coated in plastic. I intended to replace it anyway. The bottom relay on the board was identical and was intended for an electric toilet not in our coach so it got drafted as a replacement .
The socket was a more difficult. I thought the easy way would be to buy a new board. Nope. Not easy at all. I contacted Visone and Veurinks. Never heard back from either one other than a msg. saying they would get right back to me. KIB board PN16619456 is listed on one site as "Not Available," "Obsolete."
I know a guy in Estes Park who repaired a shorted circuit board on my Potek 40 amp smart charger last fall. We drove there in the toad today and he was able to remove the damaged relay socket, clean everything up and resolder it back on the board. It tested okay so we headed back down the mountain.
When we got back I reinstalled the repaired board with the replacement relay, aired up the coach's suspension and gave it a try. The kitchen slide started out when I pushed the OUT button. Sofar, so good. I then pushed the IN button but the slide went out even more. I didn't mess with that button anymore. I tried all the other slides. There was no sound or movement from any of the 3 other slides using any position on any switch.
Last night I discovered where a 15 amp fuse for each slide and one for the slide relay were located on the 12Vdc fuse board under the driver's feet. They all tested good but I found one fuse for a front slide only had one blade in the input female fitting while the blade on the output side was nestled snugly against the side of the fitting. I removed it, straightened the blades, wire brushed them, sprayed electronic cleaner on the connecting surfaces and reinstalled the fuse. Checked good.
So, I am now just about completely out of airspeed, altitude and ideas. Even though this Park Manager has at least 3 empty spaces reserved for people who show up and find through no fault of their own their reserved site isn't available due to somebody elses screw-up he won't let us use it. We have spent ~126 days in this state park in the last 9 months and have never seen a camp host or a camper in any of those 3 sites.
Our OM states in bold print the coach is not to be MOVED with any slide out. That seems to rule out both driving and towing. Another issue has raised its ugly head and greatly complicating the issue. The day before yesterday just after I had aired up the suspension to try to operate the slides I noted the coach had a noticeable list to port. It was apparent the 4 airbags on the roadside axles had only partially inflated. Shortly after one of the many Rangers in this well-staffed park arrived to tell me I had to be out of the park by noon on Thursday. I explained to her and showed her what the slide problem was but she said the decision was above her pay grade. As she was leaving she mentioned the coach seemed to be leaning to the left. I explained to her it had just happened and had never happened before. It was just another problem I would need some time to deal with as soon as I could. Until then it was another reason the coach could not be driven considering the drive shaft alignment issue, tires rubbing against the body during turns, etc.
Well, I've unloaded enough on you guys. If anybody is still reading this, thank you. I would greatly appreciate any suggestions you might have to help me dig out of this mess in the next 48 hours.
It's 10:30 and I haven't had supper yet. I'm gonna go eat a PB&J and call it a night.
2005 Monaco Knight 40PLQ; Cummins 8.3L ISC330, Pacbrake, Allison 3000, Roadmaster RR8R, ScanGauge D, 2004 Kawasaki Vulcan VN750(Geezer Glide) on a Versahaul carrier pulling a 2013 Kia Soul+; 2.0L, 6 speed Sport shifter(great car) on an American Car Dolly(great dolly.)
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Old 08-03-2022, 09:36 AM   #7
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I have a Power Gear slide on my coach. The motor has a rubber boot on one end and under the boot there is a lever that you have to move to release the brake, this will allow you to move the slide.

Last time I had a problem I was able to bring my slide in myself using a large crescent wrench and cheater pipe. Wasn't easy but doable. If you can someone to help push on the slide it would make a difference.

Not sure on your flush floor slide but I'd say it would work the same way but it might take more force to get it to start coming in as it has to climb the short ramp.

My bedroom slide motor is accessible by removing the small panel under the bed. The motor is mated to the slide mechanism with a couple with 4 bolts holding it together but the problem is there is not enough room to move it far enough out of the way. I would have to remove the motor and gear reducer and then use a wrench to pull the slide in. Doable but not easy especially if you are on a time constraint.

Did you control problem start after you had the wires installed on the slide motor that had the wires pulled out. I would start looking there, maybe even unplug that motor and start testing the others.
Jim J
2002 Monaco Windsor 38 PKD Cummins ISC 350 8.3L
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee w/5.7 Hemi
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electric, slide, slideout

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