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Old 09-01-2015, 07:45 PM   #1
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Sheared LR slide bolt

I have a 2008 Monaco Diplomat. After driving 10 plus hours of driving, we finally stopped and parked in dark. During setup, the front LR road side slide would not extend. Seems we have a sheared bolt. Bolt holds the square slide road to the round shaft of motor. I have replacement bolts thanks to the loyal members of this website. I do not need to open that slide. My question is, can I return home and fix the bolt at home or do I need to replace the bolt before hitting the road? Can slide extend while traveling without a bolt in place?


Thanks for help,
Tony
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Old 09-02-2015, 07:36 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tdccmc View Post
I have a 2008 Monaco Diplomat. After driving 10 plus hours of driving, we finally stopped and parked in dark. During setup, the front LR road side slide would not extend. Seems we have a sheared bolt. Bolt holds the square slide road to the round shaft of motor. I have replacement bolts thanks to the loyal members of this website. I do not need to open that slide. My question is, can I return home and fix the bolt at home or do I need to replace the bolt before hitting the road? Can slide extend while traveling without a bolt in place?





Thanks for help,

Tony

If you have a replacement bolt, why not just replace it, takes 5 minutes.
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Old 09-02-2015, 09:27 AM   #3
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Had the same problem. Here is what happened to me.
We had a problem with our 2011 Monaco Knight last week. One of the slide cables broke and only one half of the slide would move in or out. This is a very long slide that also has a residential refrigerator. Called Monaco and they said they were a month or more out, but we could call Quality RV in Springfeild Oregon to have the work done. When we arrived the repairmen tore into it right away trying to find the problem. Both cables were broken and had to be replaced. Also the adjustment coupler bolts were replaced. After the new cables were replaced the slide would not come in completely. It seemed that the box was pushed to the rear by one inch. The repairmen had to jack up each side so they could push the box back into the correct position. Then they could adjust the cables so that the box would close.
As this slide moves in and out, the adjustment couplers move next to each other. If they collide, they hit each other making a loud noise and stop the travel. This is what happened in the first place and caused the coupler and cable to hit and brake. I asked the repairmen if it was going to happen again and they said yes. I told them to add a thin piece of plywood between the two couplers to prevent this from happening. They did and it seems to have worked.
Problem is the the warrantee company, American Guardian, will only pay for the cables plus 4 hours labor time and not the adjustment or correcting the centering of the box. The total bill was about $1200 and AG only payed $320. What a deal that was.
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Old 09-02-2015, 01:56 PM   #4
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I beleive the motor is the brake for the slide, If you have slide jacks or can make something to assure slide won't go out I would do that.
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Old 09-02-2015, 07:10 PM   #5
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The motor does have the magnetic brake on the end. If the bolt is sheared then the brake is ineffective. I would take the time to put a new bolt in to be on the safe side.

Nothing worse then a slide extending out as you are going around a corner:(
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Old 09-03-2015, 07:04 AM   #6
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Can I fix later or must I fix Now

Answer: I have done it both ways. So Your choice

personally I'd fix now bacause the job is easy if you know how to do it (And I do, trust me on that.. I used to use the wrong bolts so they snapped like toothpicks and I' buy 'em by the dozen.. last dozen was longer, and longer they lasted) but if you have not done it yet.. Might be better to wait.
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Old 09-04-2015, 07:06 AM   #7
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Thanks for the great advice. I went ahead and replaced the sheared bolt. I don't think the bolt's shoulder is quite long enough, using #5, 1/4-20, 1 1/2". May need to re-drill hole since it's elongated and use 3/8" bolt.

Once again thanks for help and advice.
Tony
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Old 09-04-2015, 09:41 AM   #8
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The bolt should be long enough that the SMOOTH portion of the shank extends all the way through the hole.. You will then need to add washers to build up the shaft so the NYLOCK nut can properly snug down.

Optional (IF there is anything near the thing it can snag as it turns) cut the excess off.. I do not, nothing to snag.

Yes, you may have to re-drill the square shank if the hole has "enlarged"
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Old 09-06-2015, 06:03 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Tdccmc View Post
Thanks for the great advice. I went ahead and replaced the sheared bolt. I don't think the bolt's shoulder is quite long enough, using #5, 1/4-20, 1 1/2". May need to re-drill hole since it's elongated and use 3/8" bolt.

Once again thanks for help and advice.
Tony
I would NOT drill it out to 3/8", the holes in the drive pack and motor shafts will not have enough edge left and will break before the pin. I had some really messed up slides on my MH and even using 1/4" bolts, one of the shafts on a gear pack broke, and they aren't cheap, fortunately I was able to save the pack and turn it around. If you need fresh holes in the shafts, turn them 90 degrees and drill new 1/4" holes.


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Old 09-10-2015, 09:41 AM   #10
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Had the left side of our slide motor shaft shear last week. Interesting that the right side had grade 8 bolt but the left did not. We were trying to bring in the Front Left (refer, table, couch) slide when it would not move more than a couple of inches at the bottom. I have a 1" OE wrench to manually move it in but the motor will not allow it when it is bolted to the shaft. Since I did not have an grade 8 bolts with me, I used a temp bolt on the left shaft and used the slide out lock bar to get home. Still need to figure out why it sheared in the first place.
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