Slide out cable

[RWeigant]

We had a problem with our 2011 36' Monaco Knight last week. One of the slide cables broke and only the right side of the slide would move in or out. This is a very long slide that also has a residential refrigerator. Called Monaco and they said they were a month or more out, but we could call Quality RV in Springfeild Oregon to have the work done. When we arrived the repairmen tore into it right away trying to find the problem. Both cables were broken and had to be replaced. Also the adjustment coupler bolts were replaced. After the new cables were replaced the slide would not come in completely. It seemed that the box was pushed to the rear by one inch. The repairmen had to jack up each side so they could push the box back into the correct position. Then they could adjust the cables so that the box would close.
As this slide moves in and out, the adjustment couplers move next to each other. If they collide, they hit each other making a loud noise and stop the travel. This is what happened in the first place and caused the coupler and cable to hit and brake. I asked the repairmen if it was going to happen again and they said yes. I told them to add a thin piece of plywood between the two couplers to prevent this from happening again. They did and it seems to have worked.
Problem is the the warrantee company, American Guardian, will only pay for the cables plus 4 hours labor time and not the adjustment or correcting the centering of the box. The total bill was about $1200 and AG only payed $320. What a deal that was.
Looking for another warrantee company.

[deSanford]

Had a problem on my 2011 Cayman same as the knight except Cummins Engine. The dinette cable frayed. It was my fault, but that is another story. I was up in the Oregon area when my large full wall slide made a big noise and I barely got it to go in. Called Monaco in Coburg and they had me bring it in. After adjustment the tech informed me that the "nuts" that are on the end of the cables were loose. I asked him if this could happen again like you did and he said yes. I then asked him if he could put "lock tite" on the rod that the nuts were. He had to ask the supervisor as that is not something that they had done on the assembly line. He did it and said that was a good idea. Apparently with vibrations the lock nut and nut come loose and then you have a problem. I also carry a large crimping tool and extra cables. So far 3 years later no more cable problems. It does make me somewhat nervous with all the creppy noises retracting and extending the full wall slide, but it moves. Sanford

[RWeigant]

Good idea. I think I'll take the panel off and put a second lock nut with lock tite. This is just part of the problem. You still need to keep those coupler from hitting each other. If you open it up and move the slide in and out you'll see what I mean. Both couplers hit each other as they travel past each other.

[deSanford]

Yes and that is where lots of "tension" occurs, and the loud bang when the couplers disengage. I don't have that sound anymore after the cables were tightened up. I believe they pass each other now without hitting. Yes a nylon lock nut if that size is available or just a nut with lock tight will suffice. I also did my dinette when I replaced the frayed cable. The floor plan of these rigs is very nice. After I did all the chassis mods discussed on this forum the coach handles as good as it looks etc. Sanford

[Randy511]

Originally Posted by deSanford

Yes and that is where lots of "tension" occurs, and the loud bang when the couplers disengage. I don't have that sound anymore after the cables were tightened up. I believe they pass each other now without hitting. Yes a nylon lock nut if that size is available or just a nut with lock tight will suffice. I also did my dinette when I replaced the frayed cable. The floor plan of these rigs is very nice. After I did all the chassis mods discussed on this forum the coach handles as good as it looks etc. Sanford

Hi Sanford,

Looking to by the Monaco Knight 2012. You mention above "all the chassis mods". Can you tell which ones? I would like to plan on doing these and want to project the time and cost?

Thanks

Randy M

[deSanford]

Randy511 I sent you a private e-mail. Sanford

[96 Wideglide]

Kinda surprised they are using the cable system for a heavier livingroom slide ! They only used that system on the lightest bedroom slide on mine.

[deSanford]

The cables are VERY strong, and the motor does its job. Sanford

[bdpreece]

Wished I had checked for loose lock nuts on mine. When the bedroom slide would not come in on one side I looked and saw the cable was missing. Since we were only out for three weeks I ordered a new cable, the crimp tool and a cable cutter and had them shipped to the sticks and bricks. Spent the rest of the trip manually pushing in the slide on one side. Returned home and opened everything up only to find all the cable lock nuts loose and all that had happened was the cable fell off one side. Not even a fray anywhere. Reconnected cable adjusted all cables and put Loctite blue on all nuts. Check your cables for looseness every so often.

[deSanford]

The "lock" nut that follows the original "nut" both should be held with red or blue loctite. I don't remember which color is stronger. If you can find a nylon lock nut that would be very good also. If you don't do the above it is only a matter of time when you will have wished you did. Sanford

[bdpreece]

Red is stronger but you can't break it loose unless you hit it with heat.

[deSanford]

Thank you Brian.........Sanford