Slide out solenoid valves

[alpinedrvr]

I replaced my solenoid/valves on my Alpine Coach. Relatively easy job if you can get access to them. They screw out and then in. You may need a filter wrench . A word of caution....the new ones will have the lever release on them not the T handle. They have a spring that will likely fly away never to be found. A better solution is to get a small nut (sorry can't remember size!) at Ace or some other place that has small nuts and screw it on to the threads of the center rod. I also added some locktite.

Geoff

[azpete]

3/16 nylock nut, just make sure to tighten it enough that it will lift the pin, but not so tight the cam lever wont move freely.
just till you can find the spring. hwh does recommend you replace the spring.

[BCam]

Originally Posted by DuaneHuff

Hi Bob,
I have a mobile tech lined up to do the work but he can’t get to it for about 3 weeks so I’m checking on an alternate. I’ll tackle a lot of things but not having experience with these valve makes me shy away, especially having to crawl underneath!
I decided to replace all four valves while I’m at it, reasoning that being 20 years old, it may be good preventative maintenance.
I just hope this solves the problem!

Good choice. "My guy" did the extend and retract for my BR slide in about an hour but he had some sort of special little tool. He charged $75 to come to me plus $126 for the hour's work. Too bad you're not closer, he's in Galt. In addition to fixing the creep out problem, The slide runs a lot more smoothly and quietly. I'm glad I didn't try to do it myself. I mentioned to him that maybe I should have had the front ones done as well but he said they don't work as hard, since it's a two ram slide with a synchronizing cylinder while the rear slide is a one ram slide. Time will tell.

Good luck.

[distaff]

I've done it myself. If you have an access panel at the step it is probably a lot easier. If not you have to run the generator out, crawl under, and kneel or sit in the area vacated and work in a space that is a) difficult to reach, and b) very constrained.

BTW you need a special tool from HWH to remove the old style valves, and a different tool for the new style.

Miserable job and I'd happily pay if there was a tech near Victoria BC who could work on it.

[andy29847]

I removed a solenoid valve on my coach with an oil filter wrench.

[alpinedrvr]

No special tool is needed. I used channel lock pliers to remove and install the new ones. At least give it a try!

Geoff

[BCam]

Originally Posted by alpinedrvr

I replaced my solenoid/valves on my Alpine Coach. Relatively easy job if you can get access to them. They screw out and then in. You may need a filter wrench . A word of caution....the new ones will have the lever release on them not the T handle. They have a spring that will likely fly away never to be found. A better solution is to get a small nut (sorry can't remember size!) at Ace or some other place that has small nuts and screw it on to the threads of the center rod. I also added some locktite.

Geoff

The guy that did mine did comment that the new, lever actuated, valves were difficult to install. On the other hand, once installed, they'll be much easier to deal with if I ever have to release them. Mine were so old they didn't have a T handle, just a bolt.

[alpinedrvr]

Hi Bob

Have your valves been replaced now or is the mechanic telling you that the new ones are difficult to replace? If they haven't been replaced then just know that if you can get access to them they are NOT difficult to remove or reinstall.

Geoff

[andy29847]

If your HWH system is the same as mine, here is the solenoid layout. It seems unlikely that you would have 4 bad solenoids. Normally, if one solenoid goes bad, it leaks (internally). I expect you have an electrical/electronic problem.

[BCam]

Originally Posted by alpinedrvr

Hi Bob

Have your valves been replaced now or is the mechanic telling you that the new ones are difficult to replace? If they haven't been replaced then just know that if you can get access to them they are NOT difficult to remove or reinstall.

Geoff

Mine have been replaced. He said the lever type was more difficult than the older type.

[alpinedrvr]

Bob

Glad to hear your problem as been fixed.

Geoff

[distaff]

Just so you understand why a filter wrench or pliers don't work for me (not saying they don't for others). The red arrow indicates the location of the tool mounted to the end of the valve, you can see some other valves to the left of the one I'm removing:

[1/2 canadian]

Wow… some coach installations are certainly less amenable to component access than others. Ours, pump, tank and manifold, are together between entry step and genset, near the auxiliary air pump; relatively easy to get at compared to distaff’s setup.

Some have resurrected the solenoids by disassembling them and cleaning or replacing the O-rings. If tiny debris gets in the O-ring seat it can keep it from sealing and leak, allowing a slide to malfunction. I’ve not done that, but each time a slide has “popped” on our Beaver, it’s readily fixed by simply cycling it out a couple inches and right back in, letting the pump run and “squeal” for a second after the slide seats in. This flushing action seems to clear the O-rings.

[Dee Dub]

Yes to Paul for the HWH parts. Just ordered some from him and got a rebuilt one also...