Slide-Out Wall Extended Gutter/Channel?

[Monaco Wolfy]

For those that have inspected their slides and don't seem to have any rot issues. Every caulking I've ever used in the window business for over forty years, fails eventually. Caulking the bottom seam of the slide won't last long. I love the plate idea, but if it isn't broke, don't fix it. A product comes to mind that I've used a few times for water proofing metal flashing edges on homes. If done properly and carefully masking your seam, I believe it would out last any caulk or tape seal. I've never seen it peel off. The only issue might be if you can live with the black seam line or optional white color it comes in. It's liquid rubber and bonds very well.

https://www.flexsealproducts.com/flex-seal-liquid/

[RustyTools]

Heh-heh-heh. I like that guy's commercials, especially the one where he saws a boat in half and then sails it.

Wolfy - with your experience with Flex-Seal, do you envision it sticking well over the original silicone caulk/sealant? How do you clean off old silicone?

And does it dry slick, or somewhat rubbery? I'm thinking about the slide-seals and if they would tend to 'catch' or slide smoothly over the Flex-Seal.

Hope that made sense.

[micki49]

That is what I use on my bottom slid seams and it works great.

[Chris T]

Originally Posted by flamebuster

Thanks for the information Chris.. Did you install the guardian over the plate or did you have to remove it???

The plate I had on my floor was very thin aluminum. THat is what the tech used and was 2 ft long towards the center of the floor so I installed my plate over the top.

If you have a current plate that is an 1/8th inch or more then you would have to remove it before installing the guardian plate.

Chris T

[Chris T]

I try and encourage people who have no separation of the white laminate and have no rot starting to leave the corners alone and do not install guardian plates. Instead they should just monitor the corners and at the first sign of separation then install the guardian plates. If it isn't broke don't fix it and spend your money on something else.

Some peoples slides may never need anything but caulking due to their physical location in the USA and their MH use. Others will find separation and need the plates.

In regards to sealants, I have seen everything used from Eternabond tape to specialized sealants. Some work better then others. But on the flush floor slide it is a different story. Because of the constant rocking, torque and forces applied to the side walls during operation whatever sealant they use typically will open up.

The other problem with flush floor slides is that the bottoms cannot be sealed because the bottom runs across the glide bar and or corner blocks. You can causes a heck of a mess by putting something on the bottom corner of the flush floor slide. It will get torn up and end up on your carpet or flooring not to mention bum up the glide black/bar.

The raised floor slides are different. The corners never touch the inside floor and there are no corner blocks so sealants on these slides are different and will perform better. The slide also has less pressures and forces on the sidewalls so sealants tend to stay adhered better.

This is why that out of all the floor rot problems I have seen on coaches, 70 % have been on the drivers front slide ( the flush floor slide ). The others have been 20 % on the drivers rear slide and the other 10 % on the passenger side slides. Rarely are the passenger front slides ever found to be rotted but there have been a few I have found.

The flush floor slide is a real headache due to its construction and the constant forces being placed on the corners during operation.

Chris T

[Captjake1]

I am seeing some slight separation on 3 out of 4 slides...so I am considering doing all 4 at this point.

[Monaco Wolfy]

Where the vertical rubber body sweep meets the slide, Monaco applied vinyl tape on the slide side from top to bottom. My thought of prevention might be to place a 1", UV protected, tape over the sides seam. Putting Tape under the slide would certainly rub off the first time you use it. But used on the painted seam it may last longer than caulking and look cleaner too. I think that along with Monaco's water channel might be a good preventive plan for those that don't show any existing damage.

[Monaco Wolfy]

Ru. stytools,

Once you head down the road of putting caulking or rubber sealant on a painted surface, it's very difficult to remove without damaging the paint. I've found that the best way to scape off the silicone on nice painted surfaces is with a nylon installation tool used by all auto glass shop for installing windshields into rubber set applications. Ask any auto glass installer for a installation stick for rubber sets. They will know what your talking about. They may even give you one for free. Then put it on the bench grinder and put a edge one end much like a chisel would have. The tool is made of the best material I've found to avoid scratching up your paint while removing the cone. I must say, I might use black UV protected vinyl tape over the seam before making a mess with any caulk or rubberized coatings. Decal tape for boats is usually UV protected to some extent. Monaco may know what type tape they used the vertical, part of the slide, where the body rubber meets when slide open. It stick very well and seems to hold up well in the sun. Don't use electrical vinyl tape. It will come off in the hot sun.

[Chris T]

Originally Posted by Captjake1

I am seeing some slight separation on 3 out of 4 slides...so I am considering doing all 4 at this point.

Once you see the separation you know water is getting into the floor and starting to rot. Once this starts, depending where your parked, how often the coach is used, etc., it can go fast.

My experience has been that once it starts it is impossible to stop.

Chris T

[RustyTools]

Ditto what Chris just said.

[Captjake1]

I have a set for all 4 slides on order . Will try to install here and there as we travel.

[Sheriffbubba]

I ordered the kit for the one flush floor slide, (front driver side) and I will see how the installation goes for that one... I'm thinking that will be more difficult than a raised floor slide installation. Hope to get it installed soon... got some trips planned. I'd like to get all four slides done eventually but the flush floor slide is showing a little separation on the rear corner so it needs to be done now.

[10Boomer]

Originally Posted by Captjake1

I have a set for all 4 slides on order . Will try to install here and there as we travel.

Let's know how it goes.

[Captjake1]

Originally Posted by 10Boomer

Let's know how it goes.

Will do.....when I get them. [emoji15]