Starter does not activate on 2010 Dynasty

[gropp]

When I try to start my 2010 Dynasty I hear the relays in the rear but no start. Same situation with the rear start option. A new starter was installed a couple months ago. Oregon suggested rewiring a 40 amp circuit breaker to replace the installed 30 amp in the real panel where the Big Boy is located. I did this. The problem is occasional but always happens when I really need to get it started fast. And it doesn't matter whether the unit is hot or cold. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[BFlinn181]

As you know, there are a couple of interlocks that can prevent starting. Transmission must be in neutral, (perhaps) slides in, etc. Make sure all the things are set correctly. Have you tried it with the battery boost switch on? Did it make a difference? Dirty battery connections and dirty ground connections are the first things that come to mind.

[bobcovey]

Different coach and engine, but I have had similar problems. First, check the chasssis batteries with a meter. If they are fully charged, find the start solenoid. With the the key on, jump the two small contats with a screwdriver or a test lead. If the engine cranks, that gives you a clue. The solenoid may be bad, or one of the relays that condition it may be bad. Work backwards to find out which it is. Mine became intermittent. I triggered it 100 times while measuring the current to the starter solenoid and it failed to engage about 20% of the time. The solenoid and the relays are common parts available at NAPA, O'Reilly's, etc.
Note: on my coach the "start" solenoid is not the "starter" solenoid. The start solenoid enables the starter solenoid, which is located on the starter motor. The start solenoid is in the "low current" electrical box in the engine compartment which contains lots of relays pertaining to chassis functions.
If the batteries aren't charged, disconnect them completely and charge them before attempting a restart. BTDT. If my batteries are under ~12.3V the starter won't try to engage.

HTH,

[YC1]

See if this matches your setup. I have an 08 400 isl.

It appears the ignition start control activates the solenoid on this pre-heat panel which then send the battery voltage to the starter solenoid or directly to the starter. I suspect there is a starter solenoid right on the starter so there is quite a path for the signal to get to the starter.

Any loose wires or grounds will give you those symptoms.

When you open the PDF, look zoom in a bit and look closely for two yellow boxes. Put your cursor over them and click. These are notes.

[gropp]

Originally Posted by bobcovey

Different coach and engine, but I have had similar problems. First, check the chasssis batteries with a meter. If they are fully charged, find the start solenoid. With the the key on, jump the two small contats with a screwdriver or a test lead. If the engine cranks, that gives you a clue. The solenoid may be bad, or one of the relays that condition it may be bad. Work backwards to find out which it is. Mine became intermittent. I triggered it 100 times while measuring the current to the starter solenoid and it failed to engage about 20% of the time. The solenoid and the relays are common parts available at NAPA, O'Reilly's, etc.
Note: on my coach the "start" solenoid is not the "starter" solenoid. The start solenoid enables the starter solenoid, which is located on the starter motor. The start solenoid is in the "low current" electrical box in the engine compartment which contains lots of relays pertaining to chassis functions.
If the batteries aren't charged, disconnect them completely and charge them before attempting a restart. BTDT. If my batteries are under ~12.3V the starter won't try to engage.

HTH,

Thanks Bob. Ive been working on this problem for over a couple months. And I just about know it will start at the Monaco repair facility in Decatur (about 20 miles from me). There has to be something intermittent in the starting circuit. Mine is about the same as yours 10 or 20 % no start.
By the way. We loved our 03 Exec. Probably should have kept it. George gropp@watchtv.net

[SSRice]

On My Detroit it was a similar issue. Turned out that the small wires leading to the starter solenoid just needed to be cleaned and retightened.
The relay would click and pop the circuit breaker.
No issues since the connection was improved.

[YC1]

Intermittents will drive us Electronic techs off a cliff. You need to begin at the starter and loosten and tighten all connections. Follow those big cables wherever they take you. If they disappear be sure to track them down. If the cables do lead to a solenoid between the starter and battery, do the same thing. Take pictures along the way.

Here is a thought. There are inexpensive 12 volt buzzers. You can put a terminal on a wire and connect it to the starter solenoid or anywhere along the circuit you could possibly have an open circuit happening. Connect one wire there and the other wire of the buzzer to ground.

The next time it does not start, IF the buzzer is making plenty of noise the problem is beyond that. Move the tester to another place.

This may seem hokie but nothing works better than hearing,seeing, or smelling something electronic when it is broke.

OR, if you don't want to mess with a buzzer, find the control wire on one of the solenoids along the way such as on the pre-heat panel and connect a wire to that. Carefully run it so it cannot get chafed and put a fuse inline with it. Cover the end so it cannot short anything out. To test it, touch the positive or one of your wires away from the batteries. The engine should try to turn over.

Now the next time it does not turn over, grab that wire and give it a test.

I highly suspect one of the solenoids are acting up. This is so common for them to get dirty contacts or to arc.

Another method the next time it does not start is to take the handle of a screwdriver and give the solenoid a hard rap.

That will be $500 please. That breaks down to $5 for kicking it, and $495 for knowing where to kick it.