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Old 05-17-2021, 02:07 PM   #1709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biljol View Post
My issue is I can’t get under the coach but will try via the gen door to look at the index.

What’s the best way to be sure the wheel are exactly straight.

Van says he uses a string but how. Measuring the front and rear of the tire on the right to the left will change as your turn the wheel do you measure from the frame to the wheel front and back?
I use a long string across (front to rear) of the rear tire, fastened with tape to the tread area of the tire. Bring the string forward (past the front wheel) and slightly outward (away from coach). Move the string inward (toward the coach) and have someone tell you when it JUST touches the front of the rear tire. Then that line is parallel to the coach centerline. Compare it to the front wheel.

Craig actually does it by eye and always seems to get it right.
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Old 05-18-2021, 08:33 PM   #1710
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Ok so maybe I am nuts.

Swapping tires made no difference.

But now I am wondering if it’s just road crown and since the TRW has much better feedback I just did not notice it with the shepherd box.

I am going to verify the ride hight and may bump up the right a bit more than the left.

Am I correct that if you have air leveling when driving down the road the right side of the coach will air up more to compensate for the crown.

Plan to start a new topic for that.
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Old 05-19-2021, 12:15 PM   #1711
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biljol View Post
Am I correct that if you have air leveling when driving down the road the right side of the coach will air up more to compensate for the crown.
No. The ride height valves are between the axle and the frame/chassis. They will maintain the preset distance between these two parts.
You have one ride height valve in front and two in the rear. They are easy to adjust, but be careful climbing under an air ride coach. I would check/set ride height to the proper spec on all three and work from there.
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Old 05-20-2021, 10:05 AM   #1712
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Power Steering Tank Filter Part Number ?

Anybody Know the part number for the filter in the Power Steering tank reservoir? Im gathering all the parts for the TRW swap.
2004 Monaco Knight 34PDD
Sheppard M100 PMN34 Steering box.

Thanks John
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Old 05-20-2021, 10:17 AM   #1713
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Normally, right front CASTER is set higher by 1/2 to 3/4 degrees than left to compensate for road crown.
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Old 05-20-2021, 06:47 PM   #1714
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Originally Posted by John24RLS View Post
Anybody Know the part number for the filter in the Power Steering tank reservoir? Im gathering all the parts for the TRW swap.
2004 Monaco Knight 34PDD
Sheppard M100 PMN34 Steering box.

Thanks John

Here is a parts page for the hydraulic reservoir

I shows the filter is a 84101B, originally a Nelson filter but now Fleetguard. Three filters stacked. Good luck finding any, most places show out of stock. Here is one source that shows a pack of 6 available.

https://farmpartsstore.com/power-ste...r-84101b-bulk/
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File Type: pdf 1 Steering Reservoir.pdf (65.1 KB, 18 views)
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Old 05-21-2021, 05:57 AM   #1715
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John24RLS View Post
Anybody Know the part number for the filter in the Power Steering tank reservoir? Im gathering all the parts for the TRW swap.
2004 Monaco Knight 34PDD
Sheppard M100 PMN34 Steering box.

Thanks John
Mine uses one filter and ATF after the trw change.

Fleetgard part number
Napa Gold part number is 1487
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Old 05-21-2021, 11:46 AM   #1716
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Here is the alignment for my 2008 Endeavor just completed by Josams.

I do not understand it but someone here may find it very useful. They do these frequently so have a lot of history refining them I suspect.

If you have the same chassis and a readout maybe someone can compare those to determine if the pulling to the right looks like it is addressed
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Old 05-22-2021, 09:03 PM   #1717
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Still working on the pull to the right but another question.

I noticed today when parked engine not running I can reach up to the shaft from the steering wheel and with one hand easily move the shaft left and right, it is actually moving the input shaft when I do this is this normal?

BTW the wheels where not straight when I was able to do this.
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Old 05-23-2021, 04:46 AM   #1718
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Originally Posted by Biljol View Post
Still working on the pull to the right but another question.

I noticed today when parked engine not running I can reach up to the shaft from the steering wheel and with one hand easily move the shaft left and right, it is actually moving the input shaft when I do this is this normal?

BTW the wheels where not straight when I was able to do this.
It is ONLY at the center position that there is no lost motion. To either side of center, there IS lost motion. It's a result of the steering gear design, which has a crowned rack gear.
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Old 05-23-2021, 09:36 AM   #1719
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I'm adding this because of just discovering it. Just a word to the wise. And do not think setting the ride height will make a difference in it pulling.

Long long ago I had set my ride height and even made some templates so it only took seconds to check. From the factory my ride height was way off in the rear. I believe the front was as well.

At some point in time I had an alignment done. Didn't help with the handling but made some improvements overall. It was not the resolution but did make some noticeable improvement.

Now to the point: I cannot remember checking the ride height after that. I don't know or remember if they shimmed the front end.

With it still handling like crap I had Brazels in Oregon do an alignment. This time for sure it received shims. I added their check valves and just noticed it would corner a bit more level. No major improvement with the alignment etc.

On we go. Changed steering box. That was a magic bullet. Wanted more handling performance. Added front watts link. Then the rear. Can't add more stuff now because I have it all. Alignment, check valves, sway bars, shocks, (safe-t-Plus), the t-plus now lives in the dump. Even built an electric trim for the safe-t-plus. New tires of course.

Once all of this was done. (notice I did not mention setting ride height, nor even checking it)....

Well, once all this was done I decided to remove the shims under the axel to take out the extra caster etc.

Removing the shims was a mistake for sure. It then stiffened up the turning effort and made no improvement on the (pulling to the right) . So I had to fight heavier steering input as well as being bugged by the pull.

I experimented with using ten pounds of pressure on the right side (front and back), and that actually worked a treat in solving the pull to the right.

Getting itchy to get out and travel again I wanted the coach to be in top shape and to not fight steering fatigue after a long day.

Having the engine UpRate HP to 450 was easy enough once I could get a Cummins place to talk to me. I had a DigiCR chip some time back and while having the coach aligned and serviced at Brazils I had them put i on the dyno. The chip was nice but had issues so it was removed.

The 450 hp uprate is so worth the money. $250-$400 depending on things of course

Back to the story. Took the RV to the famous Josams in Orlando. I will return there for sure for anything in the future.

Shims added back and the thing seemed to track beautifully but I cannot report a complete success yet until a decent trip is made.

Wow, you can see the shims easily and see a difference in the height of the shims from the right to the left. You can see the shims from the back side of the axel. It is apparent they have more caster on one side versus the other.

My steering effort has decreased tremendously and the wheel wants to return to center after a turn. Much much better. Note that the road test was never at highway speeds. Only up to about 45.

Now back to the heart of the story. (ride height), if I haven't lost you yet.

Grabbing my trusty ride height templates I set to work. The front seemed a bit lower at first glance and I double checked that the system was fully aired.
The wheel well clearance did not appear to be very high and it concerned me that during a turn on a bumpy road it might make contact.

Looking further inside behind the curtain (hula skirts), the bags looked very uninflated. Squished far too much. Using the template immediately told the story and it indeed was far underinflated????

Getting to the front valve to adjust is easy enough but having two people would sure make those difficult trips easier.

As I loosened the one adjusting nut I noticed the telltale sign of where it had been tightened before. The imprint of a washer that is. Moving the adjustment I found it was at the end of its travel and could not raise the front to the desired height. It was way off. Pulling the adjustment arm loose it then was free to move as needed. It had to be moved up beyond any adjustment holes in the tall tab it was connected to. Wow, that far off. Scratching my head and looking at the shims the light came on. (), the long tab with holes in it is connected to the axel of course and the axel is now almost 1/2 of an inch further down/away from the frame of the rv. This pulls the arm down and the adjustment for the valve became out of reach.

Grabbing a flat piece of aluminum a simple extension was added to the adjusting tab that is connected to the axel. . The new hole is close to 1 1/4 inches higher than it was. This put me into the center of the adjustment and raised the front to the proper height.

Wow, what a difference looking over the front wheels and seeing the clearance it is giving me once again.

So the moral is that an alignment might throw off your ride height enormously. I did not say anything about the handling of course. Not nearly enough road time and none since setting the height

I'm disappointed that Josams did not either notice it or maybe just ignored it when it ran out of travel. Nor did they tell me if they had checked it.

Checking the rear ride height after this found them a bit too high. In the original ride height check many many years ago I ran out of travel on them right from the factory and had to drill new holes in the bracket they are attached to. I did not give it my best effort on the rears at this time do to being very very tired and sore from four or five days of primping the beautiful machine. Wax on, wax off. Sure is shining now again.

I needed to drive it up on my heavy duty blocks to feel safer while making adjustments and another person to check the measurements. It is really difficult to wiggle under there . Disconnecting the X bars would have helped a lot. But I was just out of steam. Jack stands were in place of course. These things can drop like a rock under certain conditions.

So the moral of the story is to check your ride height and especially if you have an alignment done. The alignment was worth the money to be able to report back to this group about its effects. Getting the steering input force down, alone was worth the price. And after literally burning two front tires off experimenting with things I needed to make sure the toe was correct and I can sleep well now.

Thanks for listening and hope you enjoyed the bed time story.
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Old 05-23-2021, 11:40 AM   #1720
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So both places I have had alinement done have said the right is low but did not have or did not want to put more shims in the right.

I will soon be traveling to Sacramento for work and plan on taking the coach to source engineering to get it all fixed and fixed right at this point not sure anyone in the Phoenix area can get it right.
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Old 05-23-2021, 11:47 AM   #1721
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So both places I have had alinement done have said the right is low but did not have or did not want to put more shims in the right.

I will soon be traveling to Sacramento for work and plan on taking the coach to source engineering to get it all fixed and fixed right at this point not sure anyone in the Phoenix area can get it right.

Get the correct shim (both size, hole pattern and the degree you want.


Then, anyone can install it who works on HD suspensions. And if the shim is slotted, you can even do it with a 3/4" breaker bar, socket and length of pipe for cheater.
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Old 05-23-2021, 11:29 PM   #1722
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Here is the alignment for my 2008 Endeavor just completed by Josams.



I do not understand it but someone here may find it very useful. They do these frequently so have a lot of history refining them I suspect.



If you have the same chassis and a readout maybe someone can compare those to determine if the pulling to the right looks like it is addressed


Myron assuming numbers in perenthis are the old, new are below. Looks like they have right lead in the castor from left. Looks good, right needs to be more lead than left. Don’t know why it’s that far forward on both, must be the natural part of straight axle.
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