Community Forums

Rusty Kramer · 05-09-2022, 03:10 PM

36' Dynasty.
TRW steering adjusted.
Tow in set
Front watts, Rear cross bars.

On some roads the coach will never track straight. This can be new smooth blacktop. Concrete seems better. Some roads 70 MPH does not feel fast and others 60 MPH wears me out.

I am constantly needing small left or right correction. Very small input I have no dead play.
Firestone FS591 Tires Set to coach weight pressure. New Koni FSD shocks.
Ride height is right on spec in rear. Slightly low on spec on front but coach sets perfectly level front to back.

I have not had it to a shop to check Tie rods ends yet.
Any input appreciated if you have had similar issues?

wolfe10 · 05-09-2022, 03:24 PM

ASSUME your tire pressure is adjusted for your actual weights.

Tie rod ends and actually ALL steering linkage components are super simple to check.

With engine off, you will need a helper to turn the steering wheel back and forth through 20 or so degrees. You look from the front or underneath (if safety stands) to see if there is any play between INPUT and OUTPUT.

Check steering column shaft (two U joints in most).

Check steering box-- shaft to pitman arm.

Pitman arm to left steering knuckle.

Both ends of tire rod (goes from left to right wheel).

It is REALLY not complicated!

Should take you less than 4 minutes and cost you less than two beers for your helper-- after all, they are just sitting there and slowly turning the steering wheel.

vito.a · 05-09-2022, 04:54 PM

Rusty, in my opinion the short (36' and shorter) diesel coaches do not track as straight as the 40' and longer coaches. I've driven several and ALL were that way.
When you hang a heavy Allison transmission off the rear and then add very heavy diesel engine it tends to make the tail wag the dog.
Part of that is driving technique. I tend to constantly correct the steering where my wife lets it go a little and doesn't have as much of a problem. The best that I can do is to put the arm rests down and try not to constantly correct the steering.

Rusty Kramer · 05-10-2022, 07:59 AM

Thanks Wolfe and Vito for the input.

153stars · 05-10-2022, 01:52 PM

If everything is tight ,I remember reading slightly modified alignment settings ,that was supposed to help over factory specs. But there has been so many posts of wandering , I would have no idea which post.
If your riding in ruts/rails from semis you might have relax a bit more as suggested as well.

Timaz · 05-10-2022, 01:57 PM

I use to road race and I know a few extra degrees of caster should help it track straight. Not sure how much adjustment you may have.
Tim

YC1 · 05-11-2022, 06:32 PM

Have every possible add on to my 2008 Endeavor. 41.5 ft long. Spec says it is a 40 footer but that is just a side note.

Shocks, alignments, watts links front and back. Cross bars, sway bars, Safe-t-plus (long ago in landfill), ride height. New tires. Air pressures spot spot on.

Low mileage so nothing worn out.

Still requires driving and some see-sawing.

I think if the steering wheel was upright as in normal vehicles it would be easier to drive and sure would be a lot less workout on my aging shoulders.

Strong winds or passing vehicles never bother me now versus the white knuckle panicked driving when it was new.

Forgot to add that I have "ride enhancement check valves on the air bags".

It corners well, recovers from pot holes, but still requires some effort to drive.

I once drove a large DP from Calif to Colorado and back and loved how it handled. I had to be careful with speed for sure so when I bought this coach I remarked to my wife that I didn't want to test drive it because the check book would have to come out.

I did test drive it but a very short drive so never found how terrible it drove.

I suspect a tag axel is much better right out of the gate but the steering box on this thing was an absolute danger.

Ok, had it since new and will hold on to it and someone some day will get a great coach that handles well but not as good as I thought possible.

This probably doesn't help much but once you sort through most of the stuff it may be as good as it gets.

jdw1 · 05-12-2022, 04:49 AM

If you haven’t I would check all of the suspension components for cracked welds, I believe that some Monaco products had some issues around the aria. Front and rear.

Rusty Kramer · 05-12-2022, 09:07 AM

Ok thanks to you all very much for the input. Caster and long wheel base I know are your friend to go straight.

Cant change the WB but slightly more caster might be something to look into. Broken weld somewhere is possible for sure. The quality of welds on my coach is not great in places.
I have repaired one broken shock mount, and our Roads beat the crap out of these things for sure. I have driven a friends Tag axel rig and I have pretty much decided on this trip that if I upgrade I will have 8 tires under me.

Thanks again to all for the info.

Rusty Kramer · 05-14-2022, 07:36 PM

Well I just got home from doing 1000 Miles in two days.
Certainly the roads do make a difference.
I think it is just the wheel ruts that are my biggest problem. On good roads I can dive just fine. I tried to not overthink it, relax and just look down the road.

bpu699 · 05-14-2022, 07:43 PM

These things seem to require ongoing minute corrections, it can get tiring.

In a car you have 3 feet of space on either side of your lane, so you have lots of space to claim.

In my 2000 ultimate advantage, like any semi truck, I might have 1 to 1.5 feet on either side. So you need to correct more often to stay in the lane…

Someone mentioned caster, most of these rigs have a solid front axle. There is no caster to speak of… no great self centering.

On open roads not an issue. City driving with lots of traffic ain’t relaxing.

Ray,IN · 05-14-2022, 08:05 PM

For me, it helps to look further ahead (scanning technique) than when driving a auto, like 2 blocks ahead instead of watching the painted line just in front of the MH. This, for me, reduces the sawing on the steering wheel.

When you have your MH aligned, be sure it is a total alignment, not just the steering axle. An incorrect thrust angle is why you notice you can see the entire left side of a semi-tractor trailer you are following. When I had a total alignment on my MH, the rear axle was out of alignment by 3/4". In addition to vastly improved handling and steering, my average fuel mileage increased by 1/2 MPG, and my new tires do not have the weird sharp edges on the tread ribs like the old steer tires had.