https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aqrv2TUdbV6xj2bD...4fjXV?e=NkoO08
I know there is a lot of excess baggage in this file but IF you have an electric one versus the air driven ones this should be helpful.
The switches for the electric one have a habit of pitting and the contacts are wimpy for running such a heavy current. The real problem with mine for years was when it was closed it was very tight. That is the slide was up against the back at the worm gear and would stick. Sometimes kicking it would release it and it would come right out.
Being careful to not run it in too tight helped but was not the answer since the switches were already pitted so the "intermittent" nature was hard to diagnose. Getting the whole mechanism out was a real mystery until one of the amazing talented folks on here took on a project to repair a wrecked motorhome with the same setup. His pictures showed how easy it was to get the thing out by removing just two screws from the front of the frame on the bottom.
Getting it past the entry railing was a trick and at one point I just took it off.
Chasing this intermittent for so long led me to replacing the motor thinking it might have a bad spot on the armature. That was not the case so a waste of money but sometimes you have to substitute a part to verify the condition is still there.
The video shows a couple of places where I modified things just a bit.
Making the front cover of the slide easily removable was one of the best modifications because it can be a real pain to get into when broken.
The two little boards shown in the video/s make the long arms with threads and a nylock on the ends from sticking on a cross arm brace. I'm sure now that was not the real problem but could contribute to the issue.
Once the motor was changed and the bumper pads added to the end ultimately I placed a small wood stop behind each end of the step face board. That is to prevent the mechanism from sliding tightly to the back. I don't think I have any pictures of that.
The front of the mechanism of mine actually recessed about an inch when retracted so I had some room to play with.
Recently it has started to act a little hinky. This is a highly technical term used by we electronic geeks so bare with me if I throw out some.
Mine does not appear to be sticking but has acted a bit intermittent from the switch on the console next to the Naggigator seat. The switch in the dash seems to work fine.
I could devise some rather simple relay system to run the devise but knowing it is just a cheap switch the effort is just too much.
Yes those switches can be taken apart and cleaned and I have done so many times in the past. You really have to watch as they come apart because there can be small springs inside that actually carry power to other places in the switch such as the back lights. They can fit into several locations on some so be cautious or just buy a new one.
I may consider installing a breaker in place of the fuse after measuring the normal current load. The breaker would help provide some relief for the contacts when the thing reaches the end of its travel.
But it is just another modification to do and there are at least three hundred on this beast to date. It is quite a hobby for sure.
Hope this helps someone.
Linear Mode
