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Old 08-17-2014, 09:58 AM   #15
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I cannot get over all the people doing routine maintenance and having so much trouble. For a fact there are numerous places that an airlock can occur. And then the damage comes.
There is only one way to properly fill a diesel engine. (My Opinion) That is from the bottom of the system at it's lowest point. And opening an escape at the highest point in the system.(water goes in the bottom air goes out the top) The radiator cap may be the highest point but that vary's with models.
For this method you need a pump and mods to the engine to accommodate filling from the bottom.
A little extra work at the start but well worth it in the long run. Especially if you are going to keep the unit for a long time.

We quit filling from the top a long time ago. Too many people had problems in our shop and most of it was due to the fact that they were trying to fill faster than they were allowing the air to escape. Don't forget the air has to come out of the same hole your trying to put the coolant in.
Remember if you have a rear heater under the bed bleeding air out of the system becomes a challenge.

Now what is all this about removing the thermostat? Is that to flush the system? So once you get the system flushed you replace the thermostat? So now you are ready to fill and than the possibility of having a problem with the air lock occurs.
When you say you are flushing the system are you using a chemical or some type of solution?

I have never even seen distilled water. What does it look like??
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Old 08-17-2014, 08:48 PM   #16
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Both CAT and Cummins say to replace the thermostat when you replace coolant. It's on top, it's a big hole, air comes out...pretty simple exercise.

You have your way, but obviously not the only way for sure. As for distilled water flush, pretty standard if you want to do it the right way. JMHO
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Old 08-17-2014, 08:52 PM   #17
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Not the only way at all. I've got a vacuum device that draws a vacuum on the cooling system, once you reach 25" of vacuum or so, you place a hose in your 50/50 mix coolant, open the valve and coolant fills the void. No air, no air lock. Fire it up, wait for the thermostat to open, drive away.

It's quickest, easiest and what is done at the factory.
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Old 08-17-2014, 09:48 PM   #18
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I don't think this is that hard on a STOP engine light. It is fixed as to what can trigger it. It can be 1. No oil pressure, 2. Engine overheat, 3. Low coolant. Obviously it was not the no oil pressure and the motor was not hot enough to trigger it so it means that the low coolant sensor it the header tank was exposed and set of the warning. On my mh I have a button on a panel just under the dash to the left of the steering wheel which overrides it so the engine will not shut off. My Mack truck I tow the race car trailer with also has an override button.

You need to make sure that the water in the header tank is covering the low coolant sensor. If it is then I would take the sensor out and clean it with a Scotchbrite pad.
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