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Old 09-25-2021, 05:46 PM   #29
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I got the exhaust manifold and turbo disconnected today. I have it tacked with one bolt. It weighs to much for me to lift myself. Ill try to get help or rig up a lifting device of some type. Maybe a teepee with small bockntackle, or something..

if anyone has tackled this themselves, did you disco the turbo from the manifold in the coach or removed them together? I'm curious to see if the manifold is cracked or just the gadgets failed. some of the manifold bolts were not as tight as they should be?

thanks for you help again.
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Old 09-25-2021, 06:32 PM   #30
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I disconnected my turbo from the manifold an left the turbo in place. The manifold by itself is manageable to lift.
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Old 09-25-2021, 08:43 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacwjames View Post
I disconnected my turbo from the manifold an left the turbo in place. The manifold by itself is manageable to lift.
That's the way I did mine too. My manifold was made in two pieces, so your's probably is too.
If it's cracked you should be able to see the soot in the crack.
On my previous RV, the one-piece manifold was warped so I took it to a friend who placed it on a belt sander with a long enough bed and ground it flat on that. It only took a few minutes.
Ray 03 Windsor
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Old 09-26-2021, 06:58 AM   #32
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OK, thanks. I wish i had gone that way its already taken apart. I will remove the turbo first and then the pipe. the turbo wheel shows signs of wear, and corrosion. I wonder how much is normal or acceptable? It is a two part manifold. thanks again.
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Old 09-26-2021, 07:13 AM   #33
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Is the manifold cracked?
Mine was and came out in pieces, it was a 2 piece manifold, ended up with 3 pieces in the end.
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Old 09-26-2021, 12:14 PM   #34
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Remove the turbo and intake manifold. The manifold is cracked. The turbo wheel is damaged or worn. It spins but not that freely. So I need to replace both. Or attempt to rebuild the turbo? Any thoughts on the Chinese parts versus the OEM parts?
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Old 09-26-2021, 12:20 PM   #35
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Find a shop to rebuild the turbo to new specs. It shouldn’t be over 1200 bucks to rebuild it. Cummins seems to think they are made out of gold and ones close to five grand for a new one.

Tim
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Old 09-26-2021, 01:29 PM   #36
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Find a shop to rebuild the turbo to new specs. It shouldn’t be over 1200 bucks to rebuild it. Cummins seems to think they are made out of gold and ones close to five grand for a new one.

Tim
X2 on this


Also, check on availability of manifold, there have been reports on long lead times.



Could you tell if the old manifold is warped?? Since it is still together you might get it welded. Good weld should be able grind/gouge and weld. They'd have to clamp it to a solid surface and do small sections but it's doable.
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Old 10-10-2021, 06:59 PM   #37
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Installed new manifold and new turbo center section. No problems. Just tedious and time-consuming. Same problems. Stop engine light when under load. Engine runs good, and much quieter than before. But no power. Stop engine light comes on when the boost gauge gets around 20 psi. Removed the primary filter today and found some black sludge for lack of a better word. I installed new Filters. after that discovery. No help same symptoms. Thanks for any inputs. Dale. Algie?
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Old 10-10-2021, 07:17 PM   #38
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How solid are the slugs on filter? I wonder if enough can be choking a fuel line. The higher the boost the more fuel flow needed. Seems like classic fuel starvation. I would be studying a way to blow fuel lines back into a rag to capture anything there.
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Old 10-10-2021, 07:35 PM   #39
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Yes Algae
I'd do a shock treatment of Biobor and use Startron enzyme treatment.

X2 on lack of power, you may have a fuel blockage. You could try putting air pressure on the fuel supply line going to the tank to make sure there is no blockage.
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Old 10-11-2021, 07:27 PM   #40
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OK, thanks. I did the shock treatment from tonight. also added some diesel clean from the same company. local truck parts store recommend. I drove it around for 30 min as instructed to slosh the fuel. seems like it is getting better, or maybe wishful thinking. purchased 3 new filters. will continue to change them out as well. I'm intrigued with blowing out the fuel lines but will have to research that. do you remove a line at the pump and pressurize the fuel tank at the the filler tube? thanks again.
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Old 10-12-2021, 08:03 AM   #41
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Yes you wouldn't want to blow back into lift pump or tank. You would want to introduce too much air at once either. Don't empty both filters and lines. Owners have reported certain fuel lines breaking down and collapsing as well.
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Old 10-12-2021, 08:03 AM   #42
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When I was installing the FASS pump I needed to determine which line was the fuel line to the filters, I removed the line that I thought was the feed line from the tank and removed the line from the primary filter and blew through it, this pushed the fuel out of the line at the tank and confirmed I had the right one. It made a mess at the fuel tank but I had a pad under it and caught most of the fuel.
After you change filters and it gets better I think you found your problem. The Biobor will kill the algae but it will remain in the tank and continue to plug your filters, probably faster. That's why I use the enzyme treatment it breaks down the dead algae.
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