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Old 10-26-2020, 09:52 AM   #1
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Stopped overnight, Dash getting intermittent power, can't start

It is 13 degrees in Northern New Mexico. Was running fine. Stopped last nite as it was snowing. This morning, engine didn't want to start and after trying to start, no power to dash. I have the generator charging batteries and they are around 13 volts now. Where do I check first?
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Old 10-26-2020, 10:07 AM   #2
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What make-model is your Coach?
Many have a 12V solenoid (in the front Elec Bay and/or Rear Run bay) that shuts off 12V power to the Coach. I would start there. See if you have power on both sides of the solenoid (the large terminals).

The solenoid (on my Coach) looks like this:
Top photo is the Coach Power (a.k.a. Salesman's Switch), and bottom photo is the front Elec Bay (solenoid in center with the heavy batt cables).
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Old 10-26-2020, 12:23 PM   #3
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Several times loss of power to dash have been 10 ga. wire on positive on chassis battery. Over stressing poor start may have caused issue check connection , the loop and inline fuse and it's tight. As well as the rest of battery connections.You didn't mess around near rear start switches if equipped did you.
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Old 10-26-2020, 12:25 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by map747 View Post
It is 13 degrees in Northern New Mexico. Was running fine. Stopped last nite as it was snowing. This morning, engine didn't want to start and after trying to start, no power to dash. I have the generator charging batteries and they are around 13 volts now. Where do I check first?
If you have an aquahot preheat your engine or use your engine preheat switch on the dash with your Generator running. Have you tried starting your engine while pressing your battery boost switch?

Tim
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Old 10-26-2020, 02:37 PM   #5
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If you have an aquahot preheat your engine or use your engine preheat switch on the dash with your Generator running. Have you tried starting your engine while pressing your battery boost switch?

Tim
I don't have power anymore to switch or dash...boost doesn't help
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Old 10-26-2020, 02:48 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by 153stars View Post
Several times loss of power to dash have been 10 ga. wire on positive on chassis battery. Over stressing poor start may have caused issue check connection , the loop and inline fuse and it's tight. As well as the rest of battery connections.You didn't mess around near rear start switches if equipped did you.
As said here. Pull all battery connections and clean them, including all connected wires to the battery terminals. Check rear start switches.
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Old 10-26-2020, 02:49 PM   #7
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Several times loss of power to dash have been 10 ga. wire on positive on chassis battery. Over stressing poor start may have caused issue check connection , the loop and inline fuse and it's tight. As well as the rest of battery connections.You didn't mess around near rear start switches if equipped did you.
I just check the heavy lines going to the big chassis on/off switch and I have 12v and continuity to the switch. Where might the the online fuse be?
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Old 10-26-2020, 02:50 PM   #8
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As said here. Pull all battery connections and clean them, including all connected wires to the battery terminals. Check rear start switches.
Where are the rear start switches?
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Old 10-26-2020, 02:53 PM   #9
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Do you have that continuity with the key turned to start ?

A bad connection hides when no load on it. It will show OK.
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Old 10-26-2020, 03:38 PM   #10
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He has a Diplomat , seems like I have read they don't have a rear start switch .

Reach up to the back of the ignition switch and make sure its not just a loose
connection .

Look in your elect bay left front and see if you have an ignition relay there .

Ray
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Old 10-26-2020, 08:31 PM   #11
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The inline fuse I was referring to that may feed the dash is usually within foot of 10 ga positive wire stacked on pos. terminal of chassis battery. I think mine has one wire for ignition/dash and one for trans.
The rear start only if equipped , some rigs may have been wired after production,or added in emergency/break down and get home situation until further repairs can be made.
Have you tested headlights also along with non ignition/key on items to see if your getting any chassis power at all, I may have missed it i you mentioned it.
As someone suggested I believe you have an ignition solenoid in front elec./fuse bay, you could try stacking/combining power cable on one lug to test/bypass or use jumper cable .
Low power cranking may have heated an iffy battery or ground cable connection and now it has poor connection or overheat a battery cutoff.
Do you at least hear a clunk on booster solenoid it should pull in without the key on, but so many have issues with big boy / booster I wouldn't get bogged down with it at this time.
Do you have a chassis battery disconnect, is it passing 12V again try headlights .
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Old 10-27-2020, 07:17 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by RamiDav View Post
He has a Diplomat
What year?
BTW - I didn't see anything in the OPs posts that said he had a Diplomat. I guess you know the OP.

I have wiring diagrams for some Diplomats (link in my signature line). With more info on the Coach type, I may be able to come up with something helpful.
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*SMC-Bvr-Mnco History/Chassis Info https://1drv.ms/f/s!AtvAXw_lfqbToxXYREK9YdBP08Jn
*SMC-Bvr-Mnco Wiring Diagrams https://1drv.ms/f/s!AtvAXw_lfqbTm0WTuuNqpn9a8hCh
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Old 10-27-2020, 11:45 AM   #13
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What year?
BTW - I didn't see anything in the OPs posts that said he had a Diplomat. I guess you know the OP.

I have wiring diagrams for some Diplomats (link in my signature line). With more info on the Coach type, I may be able to come up with something helpful.
No I don't know him I looked at his profile where it says he has a a Monaco ,
Diplomat , 38.5 ft but doesn't say the year .

He probably got it started and got out of the 13deg weather , that's what I would do
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