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Old 05-14-2016, 07:33 AM   #1
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Stranded!

Yesterday while driving North on I43 just north of Sheboygan Wi the ABS and Warning light came on. Noticed also that the voltmeter read about 17.5 volts. I pulled over and shut it down not wanting to fry everything. Called towing service and they towed us to a trailer repair service way out in the boonies which is closed until Monday. I've experienced this issue before (last fall) and had the alternator checked. It checked out fine. Checked all chassis grounds and cleaned them all up. No change. Replaced Trombetta and then problem went away. Then bought all new batteries since it was time. Thinking it may be the new Trombetta yesterday I got out the old one which I had cleaned up and installed it. Problem did not change. I think there is a PC board that controls the alternator output voltage. In the owners manual they call it a Battery Maintainer or Bi directional isolator relay delay. And I found it in the front run bay. Could this be my problem? Anyone familiar with this pc board? Since I had the alternator checked, cleaned all grounds, replaced Trombetta and all house/chassis batteries, this thing is about the only component left in the battery charging system. Appreciate any help and ideas.
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Old 05-14-2016, 08:40 AM   #2
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When this happened to me it was the regulator built into the alternator that shorted. In theory it is not supposed to fail in a "run the alternator wide open Max current/voltage" mode, but mine did. If it were me, I'd pull off the alternator and bench check it and its regulator before it cooks itself. I don't know what a Tombretta is, and Google didn't help me.
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Old 05-14-2016, 08:55 AM   #3
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You are looking in the wrong area. The high voltage is being produced by the alternator.

It has a built in voltage regulator that controls its output.

Some use a sense wire to read the chassis battery voltage.

If that wire is loose, corroded or broken, the Alt will try to charge the battery to reach the target voltage. Since it can't see that voltage it just keeps charging.

Find the brand of alternator and research the wiring diagrams.
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Old 05-14-2016, 08:56 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXduo View Post
When this happened to me it was the regulator built into the alternator that shorted. In theory it is not supposed to fail in a "run the alternator wide open Max current/voltage" mode, but mine did. If it were me, I'd pull off the alternator and bench check it and its regulator before it cooks itself. I don't know what a Tombretta is, and Google didn't help me.
Thank you Allen. I will definitely consider taking the alternator to have it checked again. Will have to wait until Monday for that as there are no service facilities open around here on the weekend. A Trombetta is equivalent to the Big Boy relay on your Ambassador and it connects the chassis batteries to the house batteries so the alternator can keep them charged while you are going down the road.
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Old 05-14-2016, 09:06 AM   #5
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Quote:
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You are looking in the wrong area. The high voltage is being produced by the alternator.

It has a built in voltage regulator that controls its output.

Some use a sense wire to read the chassis battery voltage.

If that wire is loose, corroded or broken, the Alt will try to charge the battery to reach the target voltage. Since it can't see that voltage it just keeps charging.

Find the brand of alternator and research the wiring diagrams.
The brand is Leece Neville and it does have a sense wire. I was under the impression the sense wire was connected to the battery maintainer pc board in the front run bay which regulated the alternators output. But you are saying that the sense wire is connected directly to the chassis battery bank? I will check this wire on the alternator end but it will be difficult to trace it through the loom to check the battery end and continuity from one end to the other. Will also get my pic out and try to find the sense wire on the schematic. Thanks for the tip!
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Old 05-14-2016, 09:09 AM   #6
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Agree with those who said it's an alternator problem.
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Old 05-14-2016, 09:21 AM   #7
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My Leece Neville is internally regulated, and if not careful, could be mounted 180 degrees off putting regulator trapped next to engine block heat.
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Old 05-14-2016, 10:11 AM   #8
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You could jump the output terminal to the sense wire on the Alt. and see if the volts regulate. If not probable the regulator.
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Old 05-14-2016, 10:38 AM   #9
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Alternator wiring schematic says Leece Neville "self excite". What does that mean?
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Old 05-14-2016, 10:56 AM   #10
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When engine is started the RPM will excite the alternator.No outside current is needed.
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Old 05-14-2016, 10:58 AM   #11
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Alternator wiring schematic says Leece Neville "self excite". What does that mean?
"self excite" means different things on different forums
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Old 05-14-2016, 11:16 AM   #12
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No "key on" power needed.
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Old 05-14-2016, 11:47 AM   #13
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Quote:
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The brand is Leece Neville and it does have a sense wire. I was under the impression the sense wire was connected to the battery maintainer pc board in the front run bay which regulated the alternators output. But you are saying that the sense wire is connected directly to the chassis battery bank? I will check this wire on the alternator end but it will be difficult to trace it through the loom to check the battery end and continuity from one end to the other. Will also get my pic out and try to find the sense wire on the schematic. Thanks for the tip!
CaymanPilot
On my coach the "sense wire" runs FROM the "sense terminal" on the internal regulator of my Delco 21SI alternator TO the "positive terminal" of my chassis battery, (through an inline fuse near the battery).
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Old 05-14-2016, 02:00 PM   #14
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I would pull the trigger wire off the alt and make it disabled. Restart the engine and see what you have. In theory you could drive this way to get home or at least to a closer spot to where you destination is. Worst case scenario run the generator to recharge the batteries as you go.
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