Suddenly no 120v power to Kitchen Side Outlets

[wamcneil]

Forgot to attach the wiring diagram. This might be similar to yours.
Notice that the dinette is on the same breaker. So if yours is like mine... and the dinette has power, but the kitchen does not, that means the problem is downstream of the dinette.
Cheers,
Walter

[irishguy]

Walter,

Thank you for the info...all sounds good.

I don't see your attachment though.

Disregard. I see it now.

[irishguy]

Originally Posted by irishguy

Walter,

Thank you for the info...all sounds good.

I don't see your attachment though.

Disregard, I see it now.

[777 Driver]

Originally Posted by irishguy

Ivy, I've got a 2000 watt Trace inverter. I've checked that thing over from top to bottom...all I can see is one little push button breaker and it's not tripped.

Do you have a Trace as well?

Hi irishguy,

Do you know the model number of your 2000 watt Trace inverter?

The reason I ask is that your symptoms sound exactly like what would happen if the "Pass-through" circuit breaker on the inverter has tripped. I experienced that on several occasions in a previous coach. It typically occurred in the morning when my DW turned on her hair dryer which was plugged in to an outlet on an inverted circuit.

Depending on the mounting location of your inverter, that circuit breaker can be quite difficult to locate. IF you can find (or download) a copy of the Owner's Manual for your inverter, it likely has diagrams that show the location of all the circuit breakers, making it much easier to find them if they're not easily viewable.

It might be beneficial for you to track down the inverter manual and make sure that there are no tripped circuit breakers on the inverter.

Take care,
Stu

[irishguy]

Stu,

I have the owner's manual for my inverter. There's only one re-settable breaker on this model of trace inverter. It's not popped.

I was hoping there were other breakers but unfortunately no.

[153stars]

As said move wire to other breaker or use a Wiggy meter /"low impedance meter" or rig a light bulb to outlet to test for some actual amperage out of the breaker.
I have been fooled by high impedance meter giving me the proper voltage reading but no real power . Once a bad cartridge fuse even showed continuity and 480 & 277 to ground.
Could it be a power shedding relay is inoperable if it also goes to microwave.?

[KanzKran]

Originally Posted by 153stars

Could it be a power shedding relay is inoperable if it also goes to microwave.?

I've never given it any thought, but it would make sense that all shedding relays would be NC, and energize to open. That way the default is that all loads are powered in case of relay or logic failure, and the only downside is that you can overload and trip a breaker. Better than having a dead circuit even when the total load is light.

[YC1]

Sorry, I have to ask. Did you actually use a voltmeter to test the output wires of the inverter?? I know, captain obvious. But all I have read is about checking breakers on the inverter.

It is time to buy a signal tracer to chase those darn wire paths. Not expensive at all and absolutely necessary in these beasts which often make no sense in their wire paths.

I suspect you have one of the outlets at the beginning of that chain gone bad. Those press on wire connections on some are kind of dubious to me.

With the signal tracer you just put a (hairpin), into a dead outlet in the chain and use a hand held sniffer to chase a tone. Kind of like a propane siniffer if you have ever seen one.

[irishguy]

Originally Posted by 153stars

As said move wire to other breaker or use a Wiggy meter /"low impedance meter" or rig a light bulb to outlet to test for some actual amperage out of the breaker.
I have been fooled by high impedance meter giving me the proper voltage reading but no real power . Once a bad cartridge fuse even showed continuity and 480 & 277 to ground.
Could it be a power shedding relay is inoperable if it also goes to microwave.?

153stars,

I've been using a multi-meter and have 120v on the output of all breakers. I've also moved the dead kitchen circuit wiring to the working bath side breaker/gfi circuit and still no power to the outlets
The microwave is on a separate breaker and has power.
Are you thinking the energy management system could have shut down the now dead circuit?

[irishguy]

Originally Posted by YC1

Sorry, I have to ask. Did you actually use a voltmeter to test the output wires of the inverter?? I know, captain obvious. But all I have read is about checking breakers on the inverter.

It is time to buy a signal tracer to chase those darn wire paths. Not expensive at all and absolutely necessary in these beasts which often make no sense in their wire paths.

I suspect you have one of the outlets at the beginning of that chain gone bad. Those press on wire connections on some are kind of dubious to me.

With the signal tracer you just put a (hairpin), into a dead outlet in the chain and use a hand held sniffer to chase a tone. Kind of like a propane siniffer if you have ever seen one.

Myron,

I have checked the output side of all breakers in both the 120v and 240v breaker panels. The L-1 and L-2 output side of the 120v panel and 240v panel have power.
Should I be taking readings right at the inverter?

I did continuity testing on the dead circuit:

White wire neutral side: Full continuity from breaker panel white wire through a junction box and to all dead outlets.

Black wire power side: No continuity from black power wire in 120v breaker panel to junction box. As well no power readings on black/black connection and black/red connection in this junction box.
I have continuity from junction box black wire circuit to all dead outlets.

This junction box is right at the slide and plumbing chase area. It looks like it runs to/from another nearby junction box that is in the same area but behind a wall which is only accessible by moving in the slide.

My job today is to check around that slide area where things move around with the slide and see if I can find any issues. I'm also going to move the slide in and check out the other junction box.

[windsorbill]

Irishguy,

Which EMS/brand system do you have?

[irishguy]

Originally Posted by windsorbill

Irishguy,

Which EMS/brand system do you have?

Bill,

I have the Intellitec system. All lights are lit green on the panel.

[windsorbill]

Originally Posted by irishguy

Bill,

I have the Intellitec system. All lights are lit green on the panel.

I have the Intellitec system as well.

Years ago, one of my intellitec relays fried and I couldn't get the rear air to work. I jumped that leg onto the washer/dryer leg and got it working. Not ideal, but solved my problem. When I talked to M&M about it, apparently just replacing the relay wasn't an option or wasn't practical--I can't remember which. A couple years later I replaced the whole circuit board.

I didn't think that the EMS would/could shed a plug circuit. But who knows. Worth a look, however.

[Dennis123]

Originally Posted by irishguy

Tom,

Am I looking for a loose or fried wire?

I had the same issue with mine. A friend found it in the bathroom. I didn't see the second receptacle in the bath that was a ground fault.