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Old 06-30-2020, 12:28 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irishguy View Post
Tom,

Am I looking for a loose or fried wire?
My apologies for not getting back to you on this. The answer would have been 'yes', but you're way past that already, per your post several pages later.

Quote:
Originally Posted by irishguy View Post
Black wire power side: No continuity from black power wire in 120v breaker panel to junction box. As well no power readings on black/black connection and black/red connection in this junction box.
I have continuity from junction box black wire circuit to all dead outlets.
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Old 06-30-2020, 07:32 PM   #58
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Myron,

I have checked the output side of all breakers in both the 120v and 240v breaker panels. The L-1 and L-2 output side of the 120v panel and 240v panel have power.
Should I be taking readings right at the inverter?

Absolutely take voltage readings at the output of the inverter. The power passes through the inverter in the normal state. There are relays that transfer the shoreline power over to the inverted power.

Glad I asked the question.

Continuity testing is fine when it works. One strand of wire will show continuity. Or a poor connection.

You actually have a built in signal tracer. That is following the 110 volts.
It must get through the inverter/converter.

I did continuity testing on the dead circuit:

White wire neutral side: Full continuity from breaker panel white wire through a junction box and to all dead outlets.

Black wire power side: No continuity from black power wire in 120v breaker panel to junction box. As well no power readings on black/black connection and black/red connection in this junction box.
I have continuity from junction box black wire circuit to all dead outlets.

This junction box is right at the slide and plumbing chase area. It looks like it runs to/from another nearby junction box that is in the same area but behind a wall which is only accessible by moving in the slide.

My job today is to check around that slide area where things move around with the slide and see if I can find any issues. I'm also going to move the slide in and check out the other junction box.
A few pictures would help to visualize your path but I recently installed an inverter/converter and had to add a junction box with breakers. The junction box was located in the same compartment as the inverter/converter.

I think you are close to finding it.
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Old 07-01-2020, 02:02 PM   #59
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I think it's time for you to get a licensed electrician to help you out! We've done all we can!
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Old 07-01-2020, 03:46 PM   #60
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I have the Intellitec system as well.

Years ago, one of my intellitec relays fried and I couldn't get the rear air to work. I jumped that leg onto the washer/dryer leg and got it working. Not ideal, but solved my problem. When I talked to M&M about it, apparently just replacing the relay wasn't an option or wasn't practical--I can't remember which. A couple years later I replaced the whole circuit board.

I didn't think that the EMS would/could shed a plug circuit. But who knows. Worth a look, however.

The circuit board where the relays are was likely burned badly and replacing one of the relays was not practical. I have several relays that were going to be replaced until I pulled the board and found how much smoke it had let out. I replace my entire board as well. That said, the panel it is mounted in has no air circulation so there was tremendous heat buildup inside. Not a good recipe for electronics. I have provided some air flow for mine and have not further problems. We full time and often have both AC's running constantly day and night.

The EMS can shed any loads the installed puts them on. The washer/dryer in mine is on a load shed as is my Fireplace. Both of which are on outlets.
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Old 07-01-2020, 06:37 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by windsorbill View Post
I have the Intellitec system as well.

Years ago, one of my intellitec relays fried and I couldn't get the rear air to work. I jumped that leg onto the washer/dryer leg and got it working. Not ideal, but solved my problem. When I talked to M&M about it, apparently just replacing the relay wasn't an option or wasn't practical--I can't remember which. A couple years later I replaced the whole circuit board.

I didn't think that the EMS would/could shed a plug circuit. But who knows. Worth a look, however.

Thank you Windorbill,

Reading this I finally checked and no power to rear A/C . I have been reading up on all the testing procedures and used my handheld voltage tester to verify no AC to rear unit.
Took the panel off and verified relay was not doing itís job.

Used your repair technique to get my rear air working again.

Now to find a board and replace it. Much cheaper then a new A/C unit and mine are heat pumps to boot and pretty expensive in Canada.

Hope original poster finds his break in his wiring. I would also look at getting a non contact AC tester. Besides the wire tracer they work very well for quick tests before you break out the multi meter.

Thanks again and proof reading all posts can help you solve a problem you are having.

Terry
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Old 07-01-2020, 08:41 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by 96Bounder1st View Post
Thank you Windorbill,

Reading this I finally checked and no power to rear A/C . I have been reading up on all the testing procedures and used my handheld voltage tester to verify no AC to rear unit.
Took the panel off and verified relay was not doing itís job.

Used your repair technique to get my rear air working again.

Now to find a board and replace it. Much cheaper then a new A/C unit and mine are heat pumps to boot and pretty expensive in Canada.

Hope original poster finds his break in his wiring. I would also look at getting a non contact AC tester. Besides the wire tracer they work very well for quick tests before you break out the multi meter.

Thanks again and proof reading all posts can help you solve a problem you are having.

Terry
Terry,

You can get the board from M&M Electronics. They are very helpful. (419) 965-3014
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Old 07-02-2020, 05:23 PM   #63
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Hi Irishguy. The exact same problem happened to me, so I will just explain what it was and (fingers crossed) maybe you have the same thing. So, my passenger side outlets from our dining area all the way back through the kitchen (oops - galley!) went out. I went underneath the slide to look for hidden GFI outlets. I found one but that was not the problem. I found the wire coming off of the most forward interior non working outlet and coming down into the basement. It went into a (non GFI) outlet down there. There was no power in that outlet but there was power in another outlet just "upstream" on that circuit. So I opened up the one with no power and found that these RV outlets use a weird (to me) kind of bus where the supply wires do not us screw in terminals but rather a "press fit" connection (that requires a pretty expensive tool to install correctly). Here is a picture of one which may not be exactly like mine but you get the picture https://www.amazon.com/RV-Designer-S...P71BR9421663DY
That link looks weird in my post but if it does not work just go to Amazon and search for RV electric outlets. Apparently, what happened to mine was when I pressed in a three pronged (grounded) plug for my air compressor, I pressed out the wires that connected the wires to the outlet - so they were just hanging loose. I was not able to get them back in myself, so I wire nutted the incoming and outgoing wires together and got everything working again until I had a tech fix it right.
You have probably already gone this route, and your problem may not be as simple as mine was, but simple is where I live and maybe your problem and mine are the same. I know our symptoms were alike. Good luck and let us all know what the bug is when you find it.
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Old 07-02-2020, 05:53 PM   #64
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Ground fault tripped. Mine is left of main tv
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Old 07-02-2020, 07:07 PM   #65
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Those are press together electrical outlets manufactured by Wirecon.

Because of their propensity to fail, I have replaced them all on my coach with standard household outlets.
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Old 07-02-2020, 08:39 PM   #66
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On a gfci breaker you need to push it to the fully off position before turning it back on for them to reset.
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Old 07-02-2020, 09:42 PM   #67
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ATVnut

Quote:
Originally Posted by irishguy View Post
Tom,

Am I looking for a loose or fried wire?
I had this happen and FINALLY found a broken wire at the 110 wire connection by the inverter.....a yellow wire nuts with 3 wires in and one broken.
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Old 07-02-2020, 10:25 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by MarkandJodie View Post
Hi Irishguy. The exact same problem happened to me, so I will just explain what it was and (fingers crossed) maybe you have the same thing. So, my passenger side outlets from our dining area all the way back through the kitchen (oops - galley!) went out. I went underneath the slide to look for hidden GFI outlets. I found one but that was not the problem. I found the wire coming off of the most forward interior non working outlet and coming down into the basement. It went into a (non GFI) outlet down there. There was no power in that outlet but there was power in another outlet just "upstream" on that circuit. So I opened up the one with no power and found that these RV outlets use a weird (to me) kind of bus where the supply wires do not us screw in terminals but rather a "press fit" connection (that requires a pretty expensive tool to install correctly). Here is a picture of one which may not be exactly like mine but you get the picture https://www.amazon.com/RV-Designer-S...P71BR9421663DY
That link looks weird in my post but if it does not work just go to Amazon and search for RV electric outlets. Apparently, what happened to mine was when I pressed in a three pronged (grounded) plug for my air compressor, I pressed out the wires that connected the wires to the outlet - so they were just hanging loose. I was not able to get them back in myself, so I wire nutted the incoming and outgoing wires together and got everything working again until I had a tech fix it right.
You have probably already gone this route, and your problem may not be as simple as mine was, but simple is where I live and maybe your problem and mine are the same. I know our symptoms were alike. Good luck and let us all know what the bug is when you find it.
Hi Mark, Thank u for the info.

One of the first things I did was open up the outlet that my wife used for her coffee maker when the circuit crashed. I was disappointed to see the press on connections. In my opinion not good for a moving and twisting motorhome!
I've determined that I have continuity to all the outlets from the j-box. I don't have continuity from the black hot wire to a j- boxes. I have no power to all the outlets in the circuit. 7 in total. Tomorrow I'm closing the galley slide to access another j-box that may be part of the dead circuit.
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Old 07-02-2020, 10:27 PM   #69
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Ground fault tripped. Mine is left of main tv
jhoustrup,

What do you mean by a tripped ground fault?
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Old 07-03-2020, 03:39 AM   #70
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The GFCI (outlet) senses the current to and from the appliances on a given circuit and when there is an abnormal difference, it will "trip" or "interupt" the current flow to prevent damage.

The GFCI outlet has a button in the center that will protrude when this happens and some have a pilot light indicator as well to indicating a "trip
Interruption".

As a result, you have to manually push in the "reset" button and this will restore current flow to the circuit(s) once again unless the anomoly is still detected.

Now, GFCI outlets have a shelf life, so just because they will not reset doesn't mean that there is definitely a problem on the circuit. In fact, I just replaced one on my coach that is 8 years old.
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