Community Forums

Bees · 04-22-2015, 05:44 AM

We have a 2002 HR Endeavor. The marker lights and tail lights went out on the RV and the toad. We have had this problem before and I got help from my iRV2 friends. We replaced the marker fuse and went back on the road and they worked. Then it went out again the next day on the road. What might cause the fuse to keep blowing out?

rmcb · 04-22-2015, 06:19 AM

Maybe you have a wire intermittently shorting to ground somewhere in the trailer/toad connection. The socket mounted to the trailer hitch on some models hangs down pretty low and can drag the ground when entering/exiting the road from driveways and parking lots. Mine was all bent up and crushed. The wires were pulled out enough to short out. I replaced the receptacle, fixed the wires and moved the bracket to a higher location.
Good luck.

Roy

Mike Canter · 04-22-2015, 06:34 AM

Since it doesn't blow the fuse right away there is probably not a short. There is a possibility that the fuse is not sized correctly for your toad. If it is a 7.5 amp fuse you might want to try a 10 amp fuse.

YC1 · 04-22-2015, 06:45 AM

This is one instance where I recommend pulling, tugging, and shaking wiring plugs and harness assemblies. As suggested, loose wires on plugs and sockets would be my first place. If you cannot duplicate the blown fuse you will need to follow as much of the wiring as possible to find a wire that is rubbing.

Poltax · 04-22-2015, 07:59 PM

I had my lights go like the OP's. Kept blowing fuses for the tail and running lights. What we eventually found was that the relay for the driving lights had gone out. Replaced the relay and all was well.

2002 HR Endeavor 40ft.

ShapeShifter · 04-23-2015, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Canter

There is a possibility that the fuse is not sized correctly for your toad. If it is a 7.5 amp fuse you might want to try a 10 amp fuse.

Mike, you give a lot of great advice to this forum, and you are a valuable asset. But I must disagree with this recommendation as it is potentially dangerous.

The fuse is not sized according to the toad, it is sized according to the weakest link in the chain, generally the wire size. Unless you know that every component in the chain can handle the higher current draw, it is bad advice to suggest putting in a larger fuse. That is how damaged wiring and even fires can start.

If you have a toad that draws more current than the wiring can handle, the proper solution is to find a higher capacity power source, and use the original limited power source to drive a relay that switches the higher capacity source.

Simply replacing a fuse with a larger size is rarely the correct solution.

As mentioned by others, it could be an intermittent short caused by moving and loose connections. Using a larger fuse is also not a proper fix for such a scenario.

Mike Canter · 04-23-2015, 11:06 AM

I didn't say double the size of the fuse. I suggested increasing the size by 2.5 amps. If it is a short it will blow that also. Circuits are not designed to be on the edge but have a safety factor. I have doing electronics for 46 years and I don't see a problem in doing that but each to his own. The way the wiring bundles are secured I seriously doubt on dis moving aroundand shirting out. If there is a short the most likely it is a stray strand of wire in the trailer plug.

ShapeShifter · 04-23-2015, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Canter

I didn't say double the size of the fuse. I suggested increasing the size by 2.5 amps.

It's a 33% increase. In and of itself, not a huge amount. The problem comes when that kind of recommendation is abused by someone who doesn't know as much as you, or doesn't understand what they're doing. "Well, if uppping it to 10 amps helped, maybe going to 20 amps will be even better!"

Not saying anyone would do that based on your comments, but I generally never recommend a larger fuse because you never know what people will do with the recommendation. No disrespect intended. I guess I just try to stay conservative in these types of situations. There are lots of people out there who have no concept about electricity, and lots of people who know just enough to be truly dangerous...

Quote:

The way the wiring bundles are secured I seriously doubt on dis moving aroundand shirting out.

You have more confidence in the build quality and wire routing care than I have. On my rig, I've already tracked down strained and broken connections, and other loose connections. And I've seen enough pictures of rubbing or chafed/melted RV wires that I never assume every bundle is properly supported and restrained.

Quote:

If there is a short the most likely it is a stray strand of wire in the trailer plug.

A very distinct possibility. Whatever the cause, an intermittent short should not be discounted.

And intermittent problems can be a nightmare to diagnose!

tikitom · 04-30-2015, 05:31 PM

We lost all taillights and tow lights once. Turned out to be a corroded wire on the center marker light.

Bees · 05-01-2015, 07:49 AM

Thanks to all for your great advice. Got home and stored it away for now but will get back over there soon to run through the connections, marker lights, etc. We appreciate you taking to time to help us.

Penney · 05-24-2015, 10:33 PM

I had the same problem with a 1999 HR Imperial. I was able to temporarily fix the problem by disconnecting the tail light wire from my toad plug. We had drove through some Texas flood water and our toad had a plug under the trunk that was not sealed and had water in it causing a short.

Bees · 05-26-2015, 06:21 AM

My husband bought a new receptacle for the trailer/toad but hasn't had a chance to take it over and put it together. Hopefully that will solve the problem. Keeping everything crossed. Thank you

B.Good · 05-27-2015, 06:36 PM

I had a 2003 executive one of the side marker light connections had corroded and I lost everything from that light all the way around the back to the other side including top rear they're all run together