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Old 10-21-2021, 11:17 PM   #15
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Windsorbill, I was wondering if that could be done. Not having any experience with this type of issue just didn't know. It make perfect sense, just don't want to burn something up making a mistake. It was my understanding that the generator charged the chassis batteries also, is that not so? Also, we have a solar panel and charge controller and it should be charging the house batteries during the day and it isn't, any ideas? The wrecker finally showed up and moved the MH to the location I requested. Thank you Passport America. The kind gentleman even put the axle back in place. Was able to start the generator up using toad battery and jumper cables. House batteries charged up and inverter is running to keep the fridge cold. Will run genny in the morning and see if we can charge the starter batteries. We will see what tomorrow brings. Thanks for keeping up and for your suggestions. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia
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Old 10-22-2021, 07:21 AM   #16
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If you have the original solar panel and controller it will only have a 85 watt panel which barely keeps the batteries charged with no usage. First thing to check are the fuses in the rear bays near the batteries, they are in separate fuse holders which should be marked. Mine are 25 amp for the house batteries, 5 amp for the chassis.

Next thing to check is the junction box under the refrigerator vent hood on the roof. The wiring could be corroded. While you have the wires loose check to see if you are getting voltage from the solar panel itself.

When I first bought my coach I was seeing amperage from the solar panels but not nearly enough. I have 3 panels and when I checked 2 (that had been added) were dead but luckily they were under recall and the company sent me 2 new ones at no cost>>> thank you Kyocera.



If you are parked and plugged in I'd remove the alternator and find a good rebuild shop. If not you can tie the house and chassis batteries together with jumper cables and run the generator to drive. The chassis battery has to have sufficient voltage for ECM and the transmission ECU. That's why the transmission quit working.



When you get time take at look at this thread, I'd highly recommend replacing all the components with a Bluesea ML-ACR which automatically ties the house and chassis batteries together when there is a charging source (alternator, generator, shore).

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/win...ck-540763.html
Amazon recently had this for sale ~$150
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Old 10-22-2021, 07:45 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Notn2bars View Post
Windsorbill, I was wondering if that could be done. Not having any experience with this type of issue just didn't know. It make perfect sense, just don't want to burn something up making a mistake. It was my understanding that the generator charged the chassis batteries also, is that not so? Also, we have a solar panel and charge controller and it should be charging the house batteries during the day and it isn't, any ideas? The wrecker finally showed up and moved the MH to the location I requested. Thank you Passport America. The kind gentleman even put the axle back in place. Was able to start the generator up using toad battery and jumper cables. House batteries charged up and inverter is running to keep the fridge cold. Will run genny in the morning and see if we can charge the starter batteries. We will see what tomorrow brings. Thanks for keeping up and for your suggestions. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia
Ed,

I don't know if your coach was originally designed to charge both banks from generator/shore power or not. I know mine was NOT.

But if my alternator goes out, Nothing is going to get charged without the generator running, and then only the house batteries.

I have a 24" 2/0 cable with ends on it dedicated for just an issue like you're having. I can remove the nut on top of the positive of each bank and cross connect the 2 banks, start the generator, and through the inverter/charger, everything gets charged.

It's definitely not a permanent fix, but will get you by until you can get the proper service.
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Old 10-22-2021, 12:36 PM   #18
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Jim, I would definitely like to make the change you suggested. A rebuilt alternator is going to be about $600 and a new one about $800. Kinda like throwing money down the tube. WindsorBill, the fix you suggested to get us home looks viable for the interim. Then I can make the change Jim suggested when home. Do you only have a positive cable, or do you have a positive and negative cable? NAPA is being kind enough to charge our starter batteries at no charge. One of them is up to 100% it's done. Another is now at 75% and the last battery is at 37%. Hopefully we can do the WindsorBill jump and get to a campground tonite. God bless y'all. Ed & Sylvia
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Old 10-22-2021, 01:05 PM   #19
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Per your statement "In regards to Tims question, the voltage from the alternator to the chassis batteries increased when I took the isolator out of the equation. Went from 12.64 to 13.14." You should be able to bolt the chassis and House battery cables to the Alt cable to drive home. (leaving the isolator out of the connection)

Tim
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Old 10-22-2021, 03:09 PM   #20
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I should cost less the $300 to rebuild the alternator, I paid $185 ~7 years ago. If it is more then that I'd look at an after market.
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Old 10-22-2021, 09:21 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Notn2bars View Post
Jim, I would definitely like to make the change you suggested. A rebuilt alternator is going to be about $600 and a new one about $800. Kinda like throwing money down the tube. WindsorBill, the fix you suggested to get us home looks viable for the interim. Then I can make the change Jim suggested when home. Do you only have a positive cable, or do you have a positive and negative cable? NAPA is being kind enough to charge our starter batteries at no charge. One of them is up to 100% it's done. Another is now at 75% and the last battery is at 37%. Hopefully we can do the WindsorBill jump and get to a campground tonite. God bless y'all. Ed & Sylvia
Yes. Just a positive cable. Get at least as big as your battery cables.
The negative for both both banks are common on the frame. So nothing needed there.
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Old 10-22-2021, 10:05 PM   #22
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He has a diode isolator . Like said could bolt the alt. to chassis battery and increase charge by about .7 v or put all three on same lug and charge with genny and inverter charger. Just don't run them all down together or no way to start anything.
Sorry it was not mentioned earlier. I didn't realize you were on the road.
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Old 10-23-2021, 07:31 AM   #23
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What great responses.

Once the alternator is repaired (probably some bad diodes), don't be surprised if your diode isolator is also sick. Based on your reported measurements it appears it sure could be.

Fixing the obvious first of course may solve your issues. That is, the alternator not putting out about 14+ volts.

I am still curious if you have found the fuse mentioned that excites some alternators. It could be a self excited alternator and not an issue.

Of course a good repair shop should be able to diagnose yours on or off the RV. Alternators are pretty simple things to repair and diagnose IF one knows how they are supposed to be set up.

With a diode isolator the alternator does not have a way of knowing what your battery voltage is so a wire is run to the output side of one of the battery banks. Usually the engine batteries buy these things are snow flakes. I have simplified the feedback line a bit but it is usually fused with a small fuse. So don't go looking for a monster fuse or circuit breaker. A picture of the back of your alternator should provide the information needed to prove the setup.

I could have missed this explanation in all of the previous responses so sorry if I am repeating things. I know you are in good hands with the folks that are responding.
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Old 10-23-2021, 12:45 PM   #24
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Windsorbill, Tim, Jim, 153stars and Myron, thank you for your time and interest. Here are couple of pics that show my run bay, which looks exactly like Tim's. This is how the wires are hooked up as per all the suggestions y'all have made in the pic to the right. I have looked everywhere for a DUVAC fuse can't find one. However, looking though the bay last night noticed a relay labeled Alt Fail. It looked kinda odd. As it was being removed, it fell apart. Inside was burnt to a crisp. There is an orange wire at the chassis batteries and an orange wire at the alternator. The fuse on the orange wire was blown, but I replaced it several days ago. It is still good. It looks like it is the remote sense wire. Picked up an isolator at Oreilly's this morning and another relay. Will plug in the relay and see if that helps. Don't think I'm going to use the isolator as we will be changing the alternator out and probably the isolator to the kind that Jim is using. Looks like the alternator is dieing a painful death as it is only putting out 12.64 volts regardless of rpm now. Does anyone know the location of the voltage regulator? It might be another issue. One more question, is it possible to wire the pacbrake directly to battery and bypass the VIM, and shift the transmission manually without burning something up? Using the suggestions y'all made we were able to get back on the road and are now at Horseshoe Lake RV park in Clinton, Indiana. Will be headed to Indian Lakes in Batesville, Indiana. Tomorrow. God bless to all, Ed & Sylvia
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Old 10-23-2021, 03:06 PM   #25
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Replaced the relay and whadduya know, now we have an annoying light on the dash that tells us what we already know. So, here is where we are. No tach, no speedometer, no pacbrake and alternator is shot. Everything else works as it should. Cruise works. Cleaned the connector on top of the antifreeze reservoir and the low cool light is not coming on and no chimes. It would be really nice if we could get the pacbrake working, thus the question I posted. Any suggestions or comments are greatly appreciated. Also, Jim did you replace yours with a 200 amp alternator or other? Thanks and God Bless, Ed & Sylvia
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Old 10-23-2021, 05:15 PM   #26
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Pretty much most alternators used for a long time have internal regulators. I have 200 amp Hehr /Poweline alternator . When checking out the stats and parts availability, I noticed they still offered a lineup of external regulator alternators. I believe for fast repair for fire trucks and other emergency vehicles that members told me were big on using Powerline .
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Old 10-23-2021, 06:19 PM   #27
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I had my alternator rebuilt, it is a 160 amp Leece Neville. Cost ~$185 in 2014.



So did you remove you large dual battery idolator ( the large blue thing in Tim's picture)?
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Old 10-23-2021, 07:21 PM   #28
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Jim, yes I removed the big blue thing. If you look at the picture on the right as opposed to the one on the left you will see it is gone. Any thoughts on the pacbrake question? God Bless, Ed & Sylvia
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