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Old 10-26-2021, 05:11 PM   #43
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for what it's worth, my 2006 Diplomat has that "exciter" fuse in an inline fuse holder in the lead from the alternator about 6 inches away from the terminal and ty-wrapped to a wiring harness. Not sure that's you problem, but it's another place to look.
Not to "talk down", but alternators are 3-phase AC generators with internal diodes to convert the overlapping phases to DC. I have had a diode fail causing the alternator to test "weak". Pro shops look for this.
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Old 10-26-2021, 07:05 PM   #44
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You say your tach came back. Is there a tach wire and alt fail wire?
Seems to be debate or difference in years as to where tach signal comes from on certain coaches. R terminal is listed as Relay / Tach / Aldo system or charge indicator. As well as RPM over 10 in a fraction. For LN Dulvac and Delco 28SI and other models I'm sure.
So this is pulsating DC and can be used for tach and charge indicator relay.
I'm trying to get a good understanding. If it's a triggered output or hall affect signal or just raw pulsating output that's just isolated from the filtering that would happen attached the battery.
I think Ffrank did Delco 28SI upgrade and lost tach but hooked up R with wires he took off , not sure if he resolved issue as of yet.
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Old 10-26-2021, 08:42 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Notn2bars View Post
Not sure myself Tim but I think it acts as an interface between the motor, transmission and pacbrake. Just to let y"ll know, we are back in business. Found a thread about alternators and saw a post where a gentleman had an alternator built at Hite Auto Parts Exchange in Columbus, Ohio. Hite did it in 1 hr and the fellow was on the road again shortly. Called Hite this morning and asked about them rebuilding our alternator. Took it too them and they had a replacement ready in 1 hour for $295 +Tax. Thank you Chris and Jim for your outstanding customer service. Took it out this morning, drove to 126 miles to Columbus, Ohio, left it with Hite. It was ready in 1 Hr. Picked it up, drove 126 miles back to the campground reinstalled it. Finished the job about an hour ago. Reading 14+according to dash gauge at idle. Reading 14.2 at both the chassis and house batteries according to multimeter. Tach working again. I give them a high recommendation. Installed an new isolator, located at Oreilly's $116. Feels so good to have that working again. Praise the Lord. God Bless, Ed & Sylvia
I hope these two diagrams will help you with your Pac-Brake.

Tim
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Old 10-27-2021, 03:49 AM   #46
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Those are great schematics Tim. Very clear. I sure wish they had done more of that for later years.
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Old 10-27-2021, 08:17 AM   #47
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Tim >>You the Man



The first picture you posted is the same thing that is on the Cummins Quickserve site. Tells you what is controlled by Monaco vs Cummins



The second picture is the meat of the area where the problem might be. I have read multiple posts regarding the failure of one of the relays involved with the PacBrake.
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Old 10-28-2021, 05:53 PM   #48
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You guys are awesome. Too many thanks for your time and advice. Jchemie, no little black box in the battery compartment. Appreciate the info anyway. YC1 we replaced both the isolator and alternator at the same time. JimWW didn't like the idea of running without the alternator and isolator working, did it a couple of days but was worried about trashing the batteries. BCAM first heard it from my father who was career military and fought in Europe during WW11. Jim and Tim thanks so much for keeping up with the thread. Tim awesome, clear pics by the way. 153stars, the gray wire the back of the alternator is the wire for the tach. The orange wire is the exciter wire that is wired directly to the stater batteries. The yellow wire goes to the ignition. Tach is working again. Batteries are being charged and running the fridge off the inverter. Pacbrake still not working. The saga continues. Pulled into Indian Lakes campground and while hooking things up noticed oil all over the tire and wheel. About a cup of oil in the well of the wheel. The axle flange gasket is leaking. Evidently the towing guys messed up the gasket a couple of days ago. Napa and Orielly's unable to get the gasket for a 6 days. Shipping is more than the gasket. Guess I will have to Magyver it. (or however you spell it). God Bless and thanks to all. Will keep you posted when we have access to internet. Ed & Sylvia
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Old 10-28-2021, 07:51 PM   #49
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I think if I were trouble shooting the pacbrake the first thing I'd do it test the air solenoid to confirmed it worked and the pacbrake worked. Just follow the airline back from the pacbrake to the solenoid.



After that it will be tracking down which relay or connection is bad.



Good luck
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Old 10-29-2021, 11:23 AM   #50
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Good morning Notn2bars; What a run you have had and glad most of everything is fixed. Sorry, I don't have any advice on the Pac Brake at this time, but do have info on your axle flange gasket. You can probably have better luck finding a sheet of the proper thickness gasket material and make your own gasket. I still have rolls of it in my garage. I have made quite a few axle flange gaskets over the years when none are in stock. Takes a little time but is doable. There is an easy way to do it but I don't think I can describe here how its done. Would have to post a video. Hope someone else here can put in a gasket making video, making your own gaskets, old school style! Hope this info helps and good luck!
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Old 10-29-2021, 01:08 PM   #51
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Jim, the pacbrake itself is working. Had it apart awhile back because it was frozen solid as a block of ice. Cleaned everything up and put it back together. Works like a champ if the air solenoid is wired directly to 12 volts. The problem is in another place. 8.3 Oilbuner, cannot locate a gasket anywhere. Guys at NAPAk suggested using permatex anaerobic gasket maker, so gonna give it a try. Any ideas as the the torque for the axle flange nuts? God Bless all, Ed & Sylvia
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Old 11-02-2021, 08:06 PM   #52
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You ain't gonna believe it. Now the heater core is leaking. Cut the hose and installed a valve. Hopefully it will get us home. God bless, Ed & Sylvia
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Old 11-04-2021, 12:35 AM   #53
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Wow that sucks. I haven't heard/read of too many MH DP actual heater cores leaking. You need some gremlin repellant or burn some sage or something.
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Old 11-05-2021, 12:20 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by Notn2bars View Post
You ain't gonna believe it. Now the heater core is leaking. Cut the hose and installed a valve. Hopefully it will get us home. God bless, Ed & Sylvia
Well I guess you know how the take the dash apart.

Tim
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Old 11-05-2021, 04:09 AM   #55
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I think its under outside air box. Slide out genny may help.
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/200...re-236752.html
Vanwill is still posting here maybe PM him. He didn't follow up.

Found a reply from Van on other post
When the "Mississippi MacGyver" told me it was difficult for HIM to change his heater core, I felt the fear. Whipped out my Visa and paid a local truck repair shop to change my heater core. $300 well spent, I think. They didn't even have to break the AC connections. 'Course they had a 120# wiry 20-something who laid himself over the genny as if he were about to take a nap.

Walt, bless you, my Brother! When I grow up, I want to be just like you! Time for more great catfish and Jalapeno hush puppies at that country restaurant out in the middle of nowhere.
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Old 11-05-2021, 08:53 AM   #56
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I follow your thread so I know you will tackle this unpleasant job too.

The heater core is accessed from outside under the hood. you have a
black box on the pass side that houses the heater core and the A/C evaporator. They are mounted together back to back. There is a number of screws around the perimeter of the black plastic cover/box.
Then a plate that both heater and evaporator are mounted to can be detached from the firewall.
That assembly can be pulled out enough to remove the heater core without disconnecting the A/C hoses.

The hardest part for me was the screws on the far side of the plastic cover.
You have to work by feel and it's tight, I managed by using a 1/4 in extension and ratchet.
I think my screws were 5/16, not sure about that, it's been a while.
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