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Old 01-18-2017, 02:31 PM   #1
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The hurrier I go, the behinder I get!

So as you have seen in a previous post, my battery isolator relay, commonly referred to as a BigBoy, went kaputt. I removing and cleaning it, but decided to have a replacement in hand before messin with it. With my glasses on, my vision is fairly decent. Hard to believe I actually ordered and was preparing to replace this component!

As is obvious, the old relay is about half the size of the BigBoy!
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Old 01-18-2017, 02:38 PM   #2
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Removed and cleaned the old unit, used a bench battery to close the contacts and measured less than an ohm across the big lugs.
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Old 01-18-2017, 03:21 PM   #3
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That looks like a diode isolator below the relay you cleaned. If it is, that handles the alternators charging, to the 2 battery banks.

What activates the relay in the picture ?
It could be for boost ( AUX ) purposes only.

More pictures ?

One other point; most battery isolator relays are continous duty. I believe yours is marked intermittent duty.
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Old 01-18-2017, 03:29 PM   #4
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You called it, that is a diode isolator and the Emergency Start Relay he cleaned.

To the O/P. One difference between isolator and E-Start relays is that the E_start is "Momentary" and isolators may or may not be.
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Old 01-18-2017, 03:50 PM   #5
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Not sure of the terminology I have used here but the (old) smaller relay has chassis voltage on one side and domestic voltage on the other. My understanding of the system (bear in mind I am easily confused as you can see) is that the boost switch on the dash will close the relay contacts (verified). Also, a magic black box will close the contacts under predetermined conditions (shore/gen power and bank voltages). The old part has no visible markings as to continuous/momentary service. No current ratings are visible either. The lugs on the BB are MUCH larger than those on the old unit.

I had a single-minded focus on "Big Boy Relay" when I ordered the part. Got exactly what I ordered too.
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Old 01-18-2017, 04:05 PM   #6
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But there is no magic box, is there ?

The diode isolator pass's alternator power from the center terminal, out to both sides. It works like a double, electric check valve. It does not allow the voltage to come back or cross.

The solenoid you cleaned, is a bypass so the power can get from one battery to the other. That would be for boosting either battery, if needed.

There is no provision for charging the chassis battery from shore power, unless there is a trik l start or something like that installed.
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Old 01-18-2017, 05:35 PM   #7
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Hmmmm, no magic box! My faith in the Wizards of Electricity has been crushed. I based my assumption (magic box) on threads I have read here on that topic. So you are saying that the chassis bank is only charged by the engine alternator unless the boost switch is depressed, closing the contacts on that relay? Does that only apply to my type setup, or does it include those with a Big Boy relay? What I'm getting at is the BB is frequently hot to the touch, indicating the holding coil is energized by some source other than the boost switch.

Glad you mentioned the Trik-L-Start. I installed one a couple of days ago. The instructions called for attaching the leads directly to the BB relay for a permanent installation or using battery clamps for temporary. I wish I understood all I know about this subject.

This relay looks simpler than the BB. Not much contact area for 200 amps of load!
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Old 01-18-2017, 05:55 PM   #8
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A few years after your rig was built, the diode isolator was kicked to the curb, for BIRDs and IRDs.

Diode isolators have a .6 voltage drop thru them. That's just causing heat. They can also cause your alternator to over work.

BIRDs, ( Bi-directional Isolation Relay with Delay ) are bi-directional magic boxs, so charging happens both ways. The box senses 13.2 or more volts, from either source, and closes the BB to share the charging.

IRDs ( Isolation Relay with Delay ) are one directional boxs, so it only sense chassis battery charging and close the BB.

The new stuff will cut the house bank charging, if it starts to drag down the chassis battery, and delay re-connecting it, protecting your chassis from low voltage and dim headlights. Electonic engine controls require steady voltage.
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Old 01-18-2017, 07:14 PM   #9
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Which probably explains why we have had so many alt failures on the '98 Dynasty and this '01 Exe!

If it ain't one thing, it's sumpthin else!

Thanks for that clarification twinboat.
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Old 01-18-2017, 07:27 PM   #10
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If you are experiencing high charging voltage, you may have a problem with the small wires on the alternator.

Diodes block the battery voltage from being " seen " by the alternators regulator. To fix that, they run a battery sense wire from the chassis battery to the regulator. Some are fused and one poster said it was marked Dulvac.

Without that battery sense voltage, the regulator let's the alternator charge at maximum output.
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Old 01-19-2017, 07:10 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonNBama View Post
Glad you mentioned the Trik-L-Start. I installed one a couple of days ago. The instructions called for attaching the leads directly to the BB relay for a permanent installation or using battery clamps for temporary. I wish I understood all I know about this subject.
Here's my Amp-L-Start installed in a permanent configuration. It was quite simple.

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Old 01-19-2017, 06:17 PM   #12
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That looks very similar to the Trik-L-Start. Maybe one additional indicator light. The relay also looks identical to mine. You have more room in your enclosure than mine though. I do plan to make it a permanent installation as we are always connected to shore power when parked.
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