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Old 12-28-2019, 10:23 PM   #1
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This Endeavor is not kicking my butt except for wandering!

What is truly the best solution. Only 34k on the rig but our last few drives have been trying and tiring at best! No way I can turn the wheel over to the misses with any conscience! It got worse after going with the Bridgestone tires, but have no confidence in the Goodyear G670’s. I have varied the Tire pressure in small amounts but always seems the coach is all over the road. Constant steering to keep her between the lines. Safety + is real close by and offers free install. Is it worth it?
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Old 12-29-2019, 06:35 AM   #2
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I had an HR Vacationer pusher diesel that was a real pig to drive. I went the Henderson's Lineup in Grant's Pass, OR and had them go thru it. New Roadmaster anti sway bars, alignment and a Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer. IMHO the Safe-T-Plus did more to improve the wandering than anything else. It wasn't gone completely but I could drive with one hand as long as it wasn't too windy.

You will find a lot of discussions about your issue if you search the old postings. Some folks have installed new steering gear boxes, watts links, up sized tires and and such to address the problem.
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Old 12-29-2019, 06:43 AM   #3
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For these rigs I would seriously recommend the Monaco Watts. linkage made by Mike Hughes. You can go to their web site and learn more, it is a bolt on design, instructions are easy to follow and installation is simple. (the worst part is how dirty you get being under the motorhome) The quality of materials and the design are amazing.
I was about to resell my new to me Diplomat because of the way it moved all over the road but after doing some research and finding out that Mike was going into the fabrication business and selling these watts linkage for Monaco's and Holiday Ramblers of our vintage I decided to give it a try and wow what a difference, as you can see I still have the Diplomat 3 yrs later.
The only other problem you may have is a Shepard steering gear box there are some that have a lot of excess play. I am lucky and have very little play in my box. You can find lots of info on this in the Monaco Technical Information at the top of this column listed by CLIFFTALL. You will see that it is a very common problem and one that is fixable thanks to the good people on this site. Best of luck Doug.
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Old 12-29-2019, 01:33 PM   #4
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I would say a Safe-T-Plus is a bandaid for underlying problems and it seems to help gas MHs more than DPs...makes it harder to oversteer it. My “new” DP had one which I unhooked (made driving tiring) until I could make it adjustable on the fly. This was based on the 85K miles I put on the same chassis without one. More info here: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/maki...le-451209.html

Not sure why the same front suspension on a tag axle coach doesn’t need the watts link but a non tag does???

New tires on the back of a rig (especially if overinflated) can make it handle poorly for 400-700 miles. I would go 5 psi under what the load table calls for until you get 700 miles on them.
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Old 12-29-2019, 02:27 PM   #5
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2008 Endeavor here. Bought new so know about the white knuckle handling and wandering.

Save time and money. Steering gear box first if yours is a Sheppard. Tires will make little difference as will the safe-t-plus.

I have Every Option made for this chassis.

Ride height
Alignments
Safe-t-plus
Shocks
Watts links front and rear
Cross bars on the rear
Check Valves on the air bags
Changed Steering box

Below is the link to some phenomenal information. A lot of reading but worth it.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/mona...on-249622.html
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Old 12-29-2019, 02:29 PM   #6
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This has been discussed in great detail on the following threads:

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/wand...my-124491.html

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/stee...rw-210152.html

If you have a few hours spare, they are both very interesting reads.

There are some inherent flaws in the design of the Roadmaster chassis.
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Old 12-29-2019, 11:05 PM   #7
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Lmao "flaws" put it nicely
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Old 12-30-2019, 06:11 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chase55 View Post
What is truly the best solution. Only 34k on the rig but our last few drives have been trying and tiring at best! No way I can turn the wheel over to the misses with any conscience! It got worse after going with the Bridgestone tires, but have no confidence in the Goodyear G670’s. I have varied the Tire pressure in small amounts but always seems the coach is all over the road. Constant steering to keep her between the lines. Safety + is real close by and offers free install. Is it worth it?
I have been down all the roads and tell you the best thing to do is install Watts links and if you have a Shepard steering gear replace it with a TRW. Don't wast your time with band aid solutions that only address the symptom and not the problem. I can go into great detail about this subject and designed the first Watts link that was used on a Monaco Roadmaster chassis. Van Williams had the ideal and made the first one from my drawings. The rest is history. Mike Hughes builds them now. Go to the link below and read up.

http://www.monacowatts.com/

Bob
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Old 12-30-2019, 07:50 PM   #9
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Looked in the front Generator hatch today and is a Sheppard box. It seems tight with very little play. Like said I noticed a big difference when changing tires. The G670’s were original when we purchased the rig last year, they had some rivering wear and were 10 year old originals, with 2007 date codes, but overall wear was nice. The Bridgestone Ecopia tires really changed things. I keep lowering pressures as the tire folks put 125 all around. Believe I need a visit to the scales first most to get baseline weight readings and adjust accordingly. I am at 120 front and 100 rear at the last trip. The tires are R295/75/22.5.
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Old 12-30-2019, 08:07 PM   #10
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Replacing the box is not for all, certainly if the box is good. You just do not get the floor jack out and go after it with these big boys. I want a reasonable approach to this issue without going overboard crazy. I respect the folks that went that far but do not see the logic yet. I may in time!
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Old 12-31-2019, 07:10 AM   #11
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OP, until you can get it weighed, besides the driver’s seat the placard on the wall has axle psi...will not be 125. I would still go 5 less than the rear axle psi as those pressures are for max axle rating.

I looked up a 295/75 and I would go to 90 psi on the rear tires as that psi will carry all the weight your axle is rated for.

Like I posted above...overinflated, new rear tires is your problem, not the tires. Even at 90 psi it could take several hundred miles for the handling to get back to normal. Putting Bridgestones on was a good choice.
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Old 12-31-2019, 08:06 AM   #12
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Replacing the box is not for all, certainly if the box is good. You just do not get the floor jack out and go after it with these big boys. I want a reasonable approach to this issue without going overboard crazy. I respect the folks that went that far but do not see the logic yet. I may in time!
With the engine running and the vehicle stationary, do you have any play in the steering wheel? i.e. can you turn the steering wheel without any resistance?

My coach had 3-4 inches of play in the steering.

Swapping the gear can be a DIY job. I didn't want to do it so got a local shop to do it. IIRC they charged about $500 to swap it out. I provided the parts.

It was the single, most effective change I made to my coach.

I was considering the Watts link before we sold the coach.
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Old 12-31-2019, 08:40 AM   #13
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The first thing I do for a wandering vehicle is check the toe in. When I test drove my
dynasty it wander all over the place and check the toe in and it was toeing out. Changed
it to 3/16 toe in and it runs straight down the road. Someone had put the Howard steering
system on which I only use in heavy cross winds.
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Old 12-31-2019, 03:45 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by chawkins99 View Post
With the engine running and the vehicle stationary, do you have any play in the steering wheel? i.e. can you turn the steering wheel without any resistance?

My coach had 3-4 inches of play in the steering.

Swapping the gear can be a DIY job. I didn't want to do it so got a local shop to do it. IIRC they charged about $500 to swap it out. I provided the parts.

It was the single, most effective change I made to my coach.

I was considering the Watts link before we sold the coach.
No play, tires move instantly with any steering change and smooth.
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